Odd tuning dilemma...

[Rob5589]

Bow: 64" Southwest Archery recurve, 40 @ 28, pulling to 30, 45-46 on the fingers, Flipper II rest, 3 under

Weirdness, the bow will tune a bareshaft .700 cut to 31.5" with 113 up front (100 point and stan insert) to 13 yds (space I have).
It will also bareshaft a .400 with 138 up front (125 point and stan insert) at the same 31.5" arrow. Same Easton Carbon Legacy.
The .400 is weak with anything over the 125; I've tried 145-200, all far too weak.

I am filming in slow motion on my phone to see arrow flight. Something seems odd that 4 spines stiffer can only handle 25 grains more up front.

Any insight? Do I just need to go to a .340? Something seems amiss.

Appreciate the help

 

[oldgoat]

I would guess the 700 spine to be the anomaly in the equation, if that bow is the one I think it is, it's going to want a stiff arrow because the shelf is cut so deep and 45# @ 30" is a lot more dynamic than 45#@28"

 

[Beendare]

Delete

 

[Rob5589]

I would guess the 700 spine to be the anomaly in the equation, if that bow is the one I think it is, it's going to want a stiff arrow because the shelf is cut so deep and 45# @ 30" is a lot more dynamic than 45#@28"

I'm going to assume that is it, odd as it is. I picked up a couple 340's today. Cut to 32" and 200 up front, they are flying pretty well. Maybe ever so slightly weak but I am going to play with bh a bit and see if I can dial it in.

 

[Wrench]

What are you considering tuned? Bare shaft, paper, bh....all the above?

I too believe the 700 is the anomaly.

 

[Rob5589]

Right now I'm satisfied with bare shaft. I've read paper isn't great unless your form is dialed. Mine isn't. Of course I'll need to check broadhead flight when the time comes. Not there yet.

 

[Wrench]

Do yourself a favor and don't sweat the tuning until you get form dialed.

Any and all of the above will cause you to chase your tail if you flop the shot.

Of all the above, I would suggest paper. I would start at 5 or 6 feet and move out until the tear is perfect. You'll find a few spots in the walk back that tear perfect.....that's the node in paradox.

Walking back is another great way to get a good idea... but only if your form is good.

I'd set brace to mrf min and max, see what that does for noise and performance. Then I would shoot those 400's until my form was giving me the exact same tear 20 out of 20 times.....then I would pick my components.

 

[Beendare]

I‘m going

 

[Wrench]

Push the shelf out....

 

[Rob5589]

A guess; you might be getting a false reading. Try it at different yardages.

Ive had bareshaft arrows show weak that I knew were too stiff. Bouncing off the riser or something.

To follow up, I'm thinking that was the case. I shot through paper like Wrench suggested and saw all kinds of crazy tears with the stiffer spines. I landed on a 31" .400 with 175 up front for a taw of 500. Adding a bit of side pressure brought it all together. Not as much weight up front as I was looking for but it papers and bare shafts perfectly. I also changed my anchor to a more consistent spot on my face as well as installed a clicker.

Thanks again for taking the time fellas.