Paper Tuning - Fletched Vs Bare Shaft

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Mar 31, 2020
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Bought some new arrows and thought I’d try shooting them through paper before fletching them. Bullet hole at three feet but slight right and high tear at nine feet.

Thought I’d check my fletched arrows (same spine and length) that I just got done walk back tuning a new rest with a couple weeks ago so at least I know center shot is good. Bullet holes with fletched arrows at both three and nine feet.

I’m hesitant to mess with my rest too much since I just made the adjustments walk back tuning.

Should I be concerned about the slight right/high tears with the bare shafts at nine feet or trust the arrows with the fletching shooting bullet holes at both distances?


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Trial153

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Just me. I found the cleaner I can get a bare shaft to tune, the less I have to broadhead tune if any.
I can't remember the last time that I had a clean bare shaft that my broadhead wasn't the same POI, of course taking into account vertical drop differences do to drag.
 
OP
D
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Thanks guys - appreciate the feedback. I’ll be dialing in the bare shafts before fletching


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Joined
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Like others have said, bareshaft tuning correctly done from the start makes the rest of the process much easier. Just my preference, but I BS tune out to 40, then walk back tune, then fixed blade broadhead tune. Gives great results for me.

my advice would be to correct the bare shaft year now and then walk back tune again.
 
OP
D
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Like others have said, bareshaft tuning correctly done from the start makes the rest of the process much easier. Just my preference, but I BS tune out to 40, then walk back tune, then fixed blade broadhead tune. Gives great results for me.

my advice would be to correct the bare shaft year now and then walk back tune again.

Paper tune by moving rest, try changing arrow point weights or arrow length or both?

Sorry if these questions seem broad and/or obvious. Picked a bow up for the first time only five years ago and just starting down the rabbit hole of taking tuning into my own hands


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Zac

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Also a great resource.
 

dkime

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Paper tune by moving rest, try changing arrow point weights or arrow length or both?

Sorry if these questions seem broad and/or obvious. Picked a bow up for the first time only five years ago and just starting down the rabbit hole of taking tuning into my own hands


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Start with the rest adjustments and we can help from there, as long as you’re close on spine this won’t show up or be super critical. Again, this assumes you’re close. Plenty of ways to skin this cat but even getting a weak shaft to tune is completely possible.


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paxamus

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Check out this article. It will give you many different methods and has the charts to make it very simple.


Thanks for this! Great article and now I feel like I need to do some more tuning!


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Joined
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You’re very Welcome!

I’m no expert by any means, but I followed this list of tuning steps This year and can honestly say my fixed blade heads hit EXACTLY Within an inch of where my Broadheads do out to 50. I haven’t had a chance to shoot further yet.
 
OP
D
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Check out this article. It will give you many different methods and has the charts to make it very simple.


Following the steps in this article and made some rest adjustments this morning. Limited on distance in my garage/driveway but POI at 15 yards is lookin pretty good. Will bump this out further and make any slight tweaks this week at the range. Thanks for bringing this article to my attention PD. Very well laid out.
dbd0358f51cdb9bc18ab111693ab458f.jpg



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TheViking

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Mar 2, 2019
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Question - I’ve always set up my kicking point by centering my arrow through the Berger button (leveled). This article says to measure between axles and set nocking point there. I measured out of curiosity and I’m about 1/4” high.

Does anyone else do the measure method? Or do you use the Berger button method?
 

dkime

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Feb 25, 2015
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Question - I’ve always set up my kicking point by centering my arrow through the Berger button (leveled). This article says to measure between axles and set nocking point there. I measured out of curiosity and I’m about 1/4” high.

Does anyone else do the measure method? Or do you use the Berger button method?

It has to do with your riser design and grip location, I never measure. I’ve tried to and it just doesn’t always work out. The Berger button for me always seems to be close and gives me the ability to set the bow up based on my hold and tune rather than a specific measurement. I set a bareshaft on the shelf of the riser and get the nocked arrow setting on the rest. I then adjust nocking point and rest height to get the two arrows running parallel as a starting point


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MattB

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Question - I’ve always set up my kicking point by centering my arrow through the Berger button (leveled). This article says to measure between axles and set nocking point there. I measured out of curiosity and I’m about 1/4” high.

Does anyone else do the measure method? Or do you use the Berger button method?

Use the berger button.
 
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