Pre-64 Win Stocks

[22lr]

So I see varied references on this, figured I'd ask for personnel experience from ya'll.

Has anyone successfully inlet a post-64 long action stock for a pre-64 rifle? I see references to inletting required around the trigger bow. But I'm seeing varied references to relocating action screws or not, and if the bottom metal is reusable or not. I do plan on glass bedding the action while I'm at it. Worse case ill take it to a smith, but I'm not getting a good description of what it entails so not sure if I can do it myself or not.

I'm not worried about a little inletting, just trying to get a good feel what is actually required or what is not. Right now I'm looking at the B&C Ultralight stock as I'm just not willing to drop $600 to $700 on a McMillan, ontop of waiting a few months. I am tracking that the B&C is for a 1pc bottom medal, and mine is a 2pc, but I think I can run the adaptor for now if it works. If not ill drop a new 1pc unit into it.

Before anyone melts, it's a 30-06 standard sporter weight, made in 1962, original stock is pretty banged up but functional, and it's been my go-to field gun for the last 10 years so it has rust spots on the bottom metal and there are places the bluing has worn off. So I'm not ruining collector value here, there is no value left. That said, I'll be running this rifle for the rest of my life so I don't really care what I do to its value, to me it will always be priceless! I just want to move it towards a more all-weather rifle that I dont need to worry about on longer trips (and I hate the waterproof covers).

No worries if there is no experience in this area, I plan on trying it (and I guess ill document it so others will know), really just curious what folks have experienced out there.

 

[Wapiti1]

The inlets are kinda close. The top is the same except for screw spacing and sometimes you have to make a little room for the trigger mechanism. A cloverleaf tang will fit a non-clover inlet, but you not the other way around.

On the bottom, the post-64 has a wider trigger guard by about 0.10", and the screw spacing is about 3/16" longer on the post-64 (7.443" on pre, 7.625" on post). I don't remember if they moved the front or back screw, but you use a round file to elongate whichever hole you need to.

It is easy to convert fiberglass stocks that you are painting, but you have gaps if you convert wood stocks that are hard to fill and hide. That said, it is possible to use post 64 bottom metal.

Now, this is for like models, so featherweight to featherweight, or sporter to sporter. If you mix models, then the barrel channels are off too. Tangs are also different if you have a pre-war or post-war model.

Hope that helps.

Jeremy

 

[22lr]

The inlets are kinda close. The top is the same except for screw spacing and sometimes you have to make a little room for the trigger mechanism. A cloverleaf tang will fit a non-clover inlet, but you not the other way around.

On the bottom, the post-64 has a wider trigger guard by about 0.10", and the screw spacing is about 3/16" longer on the post-64 (7.443" on pre, 7.625" on post). I don't remember if they moved the front or back screw, but you use a round file to elongate whichever hole you need to.

It is easy to convert fiberglass stocks that you are painting, but you have gaps if you convert wood stocks that are hard to fill and hide. That said, it is possible to use post 64 bottom metal.

Now, this is for like models, so featherweight to featherweight, or sporter to sporter. If you mix models, then the barrel channels are off too. Tangs are also different if you have a pre-war or post-war model.

Hope that helps.

Jeremy

Jeremy,

Exactly the info I have been searching for! Thank you very much!

Stock ordered, I'm gonna give it a try. I'll try to post my results. Thanks for taking the time to write that, I've been searching high and low for specifics on what needs to be moved where and that is by far the best information I've seen yet!

 

[22lr]

Update for anyone that is in the same situation. I ended up with a used factory take off from Numrich parts. A post-64, made for the 2 piece bottom medal, LA, synthetic that cost me $76 shipped. I had to inlet around the barrel bulge, widen the front of magazine well area by a mm or 2, and adjust the rear screw hole. Did it all with a chisel (and hand pressure) and a dremel. It is not a professional job but it looks good enough that im happy with it.. I also took a socket wrapped in sand paper to widen the barrel channel a bit and get a better free float. Just got it bedded up with Brownells acruglass this evening and we will see how she shoots (once it cures).

As mentioned by Wapiti1 above, the bottom medal isn't an exact fit in the stock and has a few gaps. Ill get pictures once I get it reassembled. But again, nothing I can't live without until I care enough to get it fixed.

For a $76 upgrade im super pumped. Shaved 8oz of weight off going from the wood to the synthetic as well.