Recurve Arrow Build for Hunting

Kevin0351

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Apr 4, 2022
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Riverside, Ca
I’ve hunted with my compound for three years and have been successful so i’m taking the dive into the world of recurve.

I have a 62 PSE Nighthawk with 40lb limbs. Gonna be changing to 50lb. I have a 29” draw.

I like to tinker but don’t want to go broke doing it. Right now i’m thinking of doing 100gr insert and a 200gr point.

Looking to use easton carbon legacy arrows. I plan on starting full length and bare shaft tuning and cutting until i get correct stiffness.

I guess my main question is with the above info, should i purchase 400 or 350 spine arrows?
 

Beendare

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Have you seen the 3Rivers spine calculator HERE

That is a version of the Stu Miller spine calculator that is free on the internet which has more detailed instructions on how to use it HERE

These will get you pretty close- not always perfect. The key is inputting the bow data accurately.


I'm shooting 50#/30.5" DL 31 3/8" arrow with very high efficiency ILF limbs. I'm currently shooting 300's. Those ILF's are cut past center and thus tend to need a heavier spine arrow shaft.

Thats a lot of tip weight- 300g. I don't know that riser you have...but my guess is the same 400's or 340's. It really depends on how much center shot....those calculators should get you close.
 
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I would guess 400, but like @Beendare said it depends alot on the amount of centershot. And efficiency of the bow.

You likely could decrease the total point weight a bit. I prefer a nice balance of FOC and arrow weight. Too much FOC and the tail will blow alot with a side wind. This can overcome any perceived increase in penetration from high FOC. I shoot 200 to 250 total upfront weight. Usually closer to 200.

Lots of the new data coming from the Trad Lab stresses straight arrow flight as early as possible off the bow as really helping penetration. So I wouldn't over compensate with high FOC and overlook a clean flying arrow.

I'd shoot for a 480 to 550 grain total arrow weight, flying as true as possible. Two blade or two blade with bleeder head.

Hope that helps.
 
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Kevin0351

Kevin0351

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Thanks for the input. I’m looking at hunting a specific spot with it which will put my shot between 10-20 yards at ground level. A nice little ambush spot i’ve found that has been successful in the past. I figure with that range in mind a higher FOC won’t screw me too hard haha.
 

DWinVA

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Jun 17, 2014
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I shoot full length Easton Axis 400s w/ 125 grain points resulting in a total arrow weight of 470 grains.

I draw 48 pounds at 28”, WF19 riser w/Hoyt limbs. Based on all of this I’m thinking you may need 340s, depending on how short you are willing to cut your arrows.

Good luck & God Bless.
 
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Mar 8, 2013
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I shoot full length Easton Axis 400s w/ 125 grain points resulting in a total arrow weight of 470 grains.

I draw 48 pounds at 28”, WF19 riser w/Hoyt limbs. Based on all of this I’m thinking you may need 340s, depending on how short you are willing to cut your arrows.

Good luck & God Bless.
But I doubt his riser is as close to center shot as the WF19 and probably not as efficient as Hoyt limbs on that riser.
 

Beendare

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Yeah Kevin, its hard to say what will work without exact spec. If you were using a std insert and 125, 145g head it would be easier but you have so much tip weight I think you will have to use a spine calculator just to get close.

I can shoot 340s with std components even with long draw and high efficiency limbs at 50# …but with 145g heads, I have to shoot 300’s, the 340s bareshaft weak.

Your FOC requirement really is getting the cart before the horse. Nevada said it best- perfect arrow flight trumps everything….every experienced guy I know could care less about FOC
 
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Kevin0351

Kevin0351

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Yeah Kevin, its hard to say what will work without exact spec. If you were using acstd insert and 125, 145g head it would be easier but you have so much tip weight I think you will have to use a spine calculator just to get close.

Your FOC requirement really is getting the cart before the horse. Nevada said it best- perfect arrow flight trumps everything….every experienced guy I know could care less about FOC

Yeah, i’m far from set in any one particular decision. I watched the ranch fairy’s video on bareshaft tuning for recurves and his method makes sense (atleast i can’t poke holes in his process, maybe someone else can). But it’s basically pick your components and then cut your shaft until you get the correct strength of spine.

 

bisblue

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I've played with a couple different arrow combos shooting around #50@30".
I try to stay between 15-18% foc and 10-12 grains per pound. Usualy a 550 grain arrow. Tradlab AKA Cody Greenwood is a pretty smart dude who finds those numbers are a good place to start. Really high foc can make things tougher to tune.
ILF vs other bows at the same weight will want a different shaft. Buying two spines and using hot melt is a good way to tinker. Bare shaft is also least forgiving for form issues. Walk back tuning is nice to try before bare shafting and the insanity it sometimes creates.
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I’d buy a few of each and try both and see how it goes. 300 is a lot of tip weight for a 50 pound bow, but If you are only shooting 10-20 yards, I don’t think you’ll have a huge issue with trajectory or tuning. You may have to aim a little high at 20.

I’ve messed with super heavy arrows for my recurve, and have found after all the tinkering that 9-10 gpp is where it’s at for me. That weight still seems to kill just fine, and I have way better trajectory on my arrows. My longbow on the other hand… I’ll go crazy heavy on the arrows lol.
 
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My set up is real similar to yours. 50-53 lbs at 28.75 inches for three different bows. I use a dark timber 500 with 100 grain insert and a 150 point. And I shoot 10-20 yards also.

My arrows weigh real close to 550 grains.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
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Kevin0351

Kevin0351

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Ranch Fairy is THE LAST GUY I would look to for arrow advice….
You’re not the first person i’ve heard that from. I do always wonder why people say that though? I realize without someone being in the room with them to rebuke what is said anyone can make a convincing argument (hence flat earthers, lol) And his personality is one that can only be taken in very short doses.

But, that said. I don’t have the knowledge to point out the flaws in his statements. I know super heavy arrows will drastically bomb trajectory, but if you know that going in it can be accounted for.
 

bisblue

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You’re not the first person i’ve heard that from. I do always wonder why people say that though? I realize without someone being in the room with them to rebuke what is said anyone can make a convincing argument (hence flat earthers, lol) And his personality is one that can only be taken in very short doses.

But, that said. I don’t have the knowledge to point out the flaws in his statements. I know super heavy arrows will drastically bomb trajectory, but if you know that going in it can be accounted for.
One issue is that the Ashby folks conduct research, but don't share the methods and or data. All of their most important stuff makes sense though. Well tuned bow, Well tuned arrow, sharp broadheads.... it's the super high FOC, that is questionable in repeatable performance.
 
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For me I usually have two different setups. If I’m in a position to shoot around 15 yards from a tree stand or ground blind then I use a heavier arrow around 625-640 grains. If I’m out west where the shot potential is of greater distances then I’ll shoot a lighter arrow but still over 10gpp. This system has worked for me.


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Beendare

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You’re not the first person i’ve heard that from. I do always wonder why people say that though? I realize without someone being in the room with them to rebuke what is said anyone can make a convincing argument (hence flat earthers, lol) And his personality is one that can only be taken in very short doses.

But, that said. I don’t have the knowledge to point out the flaws in his statements. I know super heavy arrows will drastically bomb trajectory, but if you know that going in it can be accounted for.
FYI,
You are listening to a guy that a few years ago stated he couldn’t tune a bow….now after many calling him out….he has a tuning video which is essentially info he plagiarized to make his own and inflate his celebrity.

Look, I’m just trying to help shorten your learning curve….by all means go down the ridiculous RF rabbit hole and shoot a manly 700g plus arrow with massive FOC and report back in a couple years.
 

Wrench

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Aug 23, 2018
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I have half a dozen or so rigs in the 50-55 range. A 400 is the most middle of the road arrow and swapping between 125 and 250 up front I can shoot a 400 in all of them. Centershot, form and bow efficiency are all wild cards and make predictions vary.

With all that said, I would start in the 400 and see how it flies. Understand that the form aspect will evolve into a much more efficient form in your next few months/years and change everything.
 

GLB

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Yesterday I just setup another ILF bow that I had to tinker with. DAS 17” riser with short TT limbs. 58” bow 50 lbs at my draw. Arrows are Axis 400 28.75” with 300 total up front. Bareshafted and perfect holes in paper. Fairly comparable to what you’re wanting to setup.
 

FLS

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May 11, 2019
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You can buy singles from Lancaster. Get a couple of each spine to test. 3 Rivers also has tuning kit with one of each common spine.
IME extreme FOC accentuates any tuning issues and can have you chasing your tail. After a lot of years shooting single string, I’ve settled on a 50 grain brass insert and 125-150 grain broadheads. I’ve yet to have any penetration issues out of 45-50 lb bows and the trajectory isn’t so extreme. I shoot the same set up for 3 D, indoor and hunting. Keeps it simple for my ballistic noodle.
 
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