I do not. I blu loctite the base screws and just torque the ring screws and cross bolt to manufacture specs.Do any of you guys blue loctite the cross bolt?
I do not. I blu loctite the base screws and just torque the ring screws and cross bolt to manufacture specs.Do any of you guys blue loctite the cross bolt?
No need for that since you can just tighten it if you ever feel like checking. I do blue loctite the screws of the scope rail itself.Do any of you guys blue loctite the cross bolt?
The Weaver rail is not a picatinny rail. A quality pic rail and rings aren't moving.I only use rails when I have to - prefer a 1 piece, integrated ring & base, or Leupold rings & mounts - sadly, that's what they offer these days.
The rails used to be called weaver rails 40 + years ago and were notorious for losing zero. I've got 2 rigs with rails (mutter, mutter) and am using Warne steel rings with 4 screws for scope and 2 screws at the rail. They hold zero well but I still don't trust em at all and baby them.
The Weaver rail is not a picatinny rail. A quality pic rail and rings aren't moving.
Never, I take my scope assy off every time I clean the rifle. A slight film of imperial die wax on the mating parts occasionally, slide the assy forward and torque to 55# and it's right where it was. The F class guys pull their scopes all the time, it's a non issue.Do any of you guys blue loctite the cross bolt?