Xpedition Xcursion Tuning Help

stank.243

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Nov 6, 2018
Messages
56
Location
MT
Xpedition xcursion 6
29” draw
70# limbs maxed out (I don’t have a scale)

Shooting:
29” Easton axis 260, x hit inserts
125 grain FP
Archers Advantage says this is optimal

This is my first time trying to tune this bow. I put new Twisted X strings on and have been struggling to get a nock low tear out paper tuning. ATA and brace height are both good, draw stops seem to be in the correct position (I’ve just been looking in a mirror since I don’t have a draw board.)
I cannot get rid of a low tear. I started with a level arrow for my nock point, but now my rest is all the way down and my nock point is 3/8” high. I’ve put twists into the control cable and taken them out, 3 twists each way. It started as about a 2” low tear but I have it to about 1/2” now. The only thing that seemed to make a difference was moving the rest. What am I missing?
 

OR Archer

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Feb 29, 2012
Messages
2,612
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Phoenix,AZ
How did you check that your timing is correct? You can’t set the timing on those cams by the draw stops. Go to the Xpedition website. You’ll get the correct timing method there. Once that’s set then you can position the bottom stop for your desired let off. Once that’s set you can loosen the top stops just enough to slide into place as you draw the bow then tighten it up. Obviously this is easier in a draw board or with someone helping you. Fix those two things and it’ll clean up your low tear more than likely.
 

Zac

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Joined
Dec 1, 2018
Messages
1,691
Location
UT
Xpedition xcursion 6
29” draw
70# limbs maxed out (I don’t have a scale)

Shooting:
29” Easton axis 260, x hit inserts
125 grain FP
Archers Advantage says this is optimal

This is my first time trying to tune this bow. I put new Twisted X strings on and have been struggling to get a nock low tear out paper tuning. ATA and brace height are both good, draw stops seem to be in the correct position (I’ve just been looking in a mirror since I don’t have a draw board.)
I cannot get rid of a low tear. I started with a level arrow for my nock point, but now my rest is all the way down and my nock point is 3/8” high. I’ve put twists into the control cable and taken them out, 3 twists each way. It started as about a 2” low tear but I have it to about 1/2” now. The only thing that seemed to make a difference was moving the rest. What am I missing?
This is the exact reason my bathroom door has a hole in it :)
 
OP
S

stank.243

Member
Joined
Nov 6, 2018
Messages
56
Location
MT
How did you check that your timing is correct? You can’t set the timing on those cams by the draw stops. Go to the Xpedition website. You’ll get the correct timing method there. Once that’s set then you can position the bottom stop for your desired let off. Once that’s set you can loosen the top stops just enough to slide into place as you draw the bow then tighten it up. Obviously this is easier in a draw board or with someone helping you. Fix those two things and it’ll clean up your low tear more than likely.
I first set the bottom draw stop to the spec in my manual. The manual told me between the 3 1/2 and 4 marks on the bottom cam. I set it to 3 1/2 and then drew back as slow as I could with the mirror and adjust the top stop as best I could.
Perhaps its time build a draw board.
 

Samdemarais

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Joined
Jul 27, 2017
Messages
342
Using your phone to take a video and zooming in on draw stops works too. You don’t really need a draw board just screw a big bolt into a wall stud of something and pull down on your bow. Do you have bad nock pinch? Maybe another easy thing to check.
 
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stank.243

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Nov 6, 2018
Messages
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Location
MT
So I built a draw board and this evening I have been messing with this again. Set timing exactly, bottom stop at the suggested 3 1/2 mark on the cam then placed the top stop against the limb at full draw on the board.
With the cable “neutral” (0 twists in or out. Just how I get it from the maker) I still had a 1/4” low tear. I have no way to measure the strings under tension.
I put 2 twists in and took 2 twists out from “neutral”. Both resulted in a worse tear about 1” low tear. Which makes no sense to me. I shot 3 times at each different cable setting and had a consistent tear, so I think if it was me I’m consistently terrible.
Xpedition says to have the timing marks on the cam a distance of 7/8” to the cable and both my timing marks are at 7/8”.
I’m not sure where to go with this or what’s going on. I’m new to this so I’m sure I’m missing something pretty easy.
Anyone have some things to try or look at?
 

OR Archer

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Feb 29, 2012
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Phoenix,AZ
What year of Xcursion do you have exactly? Also when you’re twisting the cable are you twisting the buss or the control?
 
Last edited:

Billy Goat

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May 6, 2018
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Shenandoah Valley
I have no way to measure the strings under tension.

I can't help you with tuning the expedition, but if you can sink a nail into something solid you can pull with your arm enough to get a pretty decent measurement.

Just putting that out there. 50#-150# you going to be pretty close with compound string materials.
 

WakePraySlay

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Jan 2, 2020
Messages
119
Location
Eastern Washington
I’m thinking and here is what I have come up with.

if you’re confident that all your timing is spot on then here is what I would check.

1) since your limbs are maxed out make sure the limb bolts are both evenly tight. Back each one out 1/4 of a turn, then retighten.

2) what rest are you shooting? Make sure you’re getting clearance from your vanes. If there’s a possibility you might get contact from the vanes you can simply rub some chalk on edge of all your vanes on that arrow, shoot, and look at your rest to see if you have any chalk marks on it. Sometimes it could be the bottom of the sight housing too.

3) also if it’s a drop away make sure the timing chord is properly set and that you’re not getting any bounce back from the rest after it’s triggered. Again the chalk method will work in letting you know 100%.

4) Nock pinch at full draw as someone else mentioned would be another thing to check.

If none of these suggestions helped, me personally, I would start over by resetting my rest so my arrow goes through the burger hole. Level the bow using a string level and then attach a level to the end of my arrow and find the nocking point at level. Tie in nocking points so the d loop won’t cause pinch at full draw. Remember you want the nock to have some play in it at rest. And tie in a new d loop. Retest and make adjustments accordingly.
 
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stank.243

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Joined
Nov 6, 2018
Messages
56
Location
MT
I appreciate all the help fellas! Unfortunately I wasn't able to get this figured out on my own. I had a vacation planned in the Black Hills and decided to see if there was a good shop down there. I brought my bow to Black Hills Archery in Rapid City and they apparently have it shooting good, I have yet to test it on my own as we were in a hurry when I picked it up. The person who worked on my bow wasn't there when I picked it up either so I wasn't given a definite solution, but the receipt indicated it was in the cables and strings. I assume when I got them they weren't quite in spec.
Again thanks for the help!
 
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