Bergara accuracy - scope mounting issues

The grunt

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Nov 30, 2022
Pretty much new to the forum here.. I've got a bergara b14 hunter in 30-06 that I've had since 17 or 18. I've never really done much with it and last fall I got it out and was gonna get serious with it only to find it was shooting all over.. I took it to a gunsmith and had him look over it and he could find nothing in the bolt, chamber, barrel etc. I've also tried different factory loads and didn't seem to make much difference but I do have a few more boxes to try if I can get my scope mounted which brings me to.....
I bought a new scope for it in the fall out put that on, didn't help. Now I purchased new rings cause the ones that were on here were cheapos, Talley one piece is what I went with.. I usually level across the ring base to get the rifle level but my tool don't fit between scope and the base on these rings so I was trying to find a different spot to level from, here is what I found.
Level across the bottom of the action under the bolt and rear scope ring are VERY close to the same.
Then check the front ring and it is on the line on my level so no the same as the back ring.
Then I looked at the recoil lug and the bubble smashes into the very end of the tube..
I've never really checked any of this so I don't know if it matters but seem like it could be an issue. I have always been torqueing everything so that should be good. And yes I've tried calling bergara and no answer but I'll keep trying. My brother in-law bought this rifle in a package deal and I bought it from him so I don't think I have the warranty on it anyways. Of course I didn't realize that until now😑
 
My question does the recoil lug need to be straight with the rest of the rifle? Has anybody ever checked this? And it seems like if the scope rings aren't quite on the same level it could be tweaking my scope but idk if that's correct thinking or not..
 
The Bergara is a 700 based action, the bases are different heights/thicknesses front and rear. I doubt it's possible given the screw hole spacing differences, but maybe you've got the front and rear bases flip-flopped? That would cause a bend/tweak in the scope and could cause issues.

What tools are you using? What bases and rings? Scope?

Disassemble your rig and reassemble based upon the instructions in this thread and give it another shot:

 
There's a saying about a glitch in the matrix when it comes to issues, they're only issues to the guy that knows they're present. Unfortunately I owned a B14 and it didn't shoot worth a shit, but I didn't know what I do now so maybe yours can be shaped up.

My unprofessional advice, start from scratch. Check barrel channel clearance, take it apart, degrease all the screws and tapped holes with acetone or rubbing alcohol, bed the recoil lug and skim or full bed the action, reassemble and torque, blue loctite on base screws. If you're worried about the Talley's you can lap them, but I usually get the base screws just snug and set the scope in them and lightly press down and rock it back and forth, then torque them evenly. In my mind if there's any slop in the screw holes that's your best shot and getting them aligned. Once torqued properly I've never had an issue with Talley's, but I guarantee you'll catch some crap on here for saying the T word. Good luck.
 
@nobody: Talley one piece rings, Leupold VX 3, rings are mounted correctly.
@ Harvey at this point we are at scratch🤣 everything is still disassembled I just didn't want to put it all back together if the recoil lug deal is an obvious issue but I guess if I got it bedded then it wouldn't matter.. Too bad about the T word I thought I was making a good choice! Unfortunately pry most of us can't buy all the top end stuff on everything.. and then we get to put up with issues like this😎
 
some pictures might really help - i'm struggling to understand what you were actually checking with your level.

the top of the recoil lug is typically round on a 700 style rifle, and the flat part of the lug is down inside the stock where it's inaccessible to a level.

on a serious note - you've assembled a collection of items that all independently have reputations for lackluster performance. Depending on how serious you are about getting into rifle shooting/hunting, you might be better off selling it all and moving towards a set up more like these, particularly if you want something that just flat out works. Typical cost is normally around 1600 all in:

 
Ok thanks all for the replies.. maybe I should just give up on it and try something else.. I think I'll put it back together and just see what it does I have scraped some paint from inside the stock earlier but mine doesn't have those mini pillars like was posted..
@ResearchinStuff I had my stock off and was leveling off of the bottom of the recoil lug then took the scope off to check the rings to see how they compared, I was just trying to find a spot to level the action and then set my scope.
I'll try to post it if I happen to get it shooting good.
It's interesting to me the difference in opinions on Leupolds. I know of some pretty serious backcountry hunters that use them a lot and for long distance (up to 800 yards in the field) and they claim to never have had one fail.. but I have noticed on rokslide before that they aren't very favored. Anyways I'm not wanting to open that can here it's just interesting.
 
Best of luck I hope it turns into a hammer for you. I've not ever seen or thought of removing the action to level the scope.

If the recoil lug is riding uneven on the bottom of the inlet I could see that causing accuracy problems. Also if the scope base holes are misaligned and putting a lot of stress on the tube that will for sure cause problems.
 
I was also struggling to understand what problem you were trying to communicate.

The lug being not level wouldn’t be a huge deal if the recess in the stock were bedded to it, but either way, strange place to level the action for the purpose of leveling the scope.

Binding a scope tube is bad. The front and back rings need to be perfectly aligned. Lapping may be necessary if alignment is off at all. The scope should cradle in the rings with the screws loose and rotate around and back and forth freely.

Level across the flat part of the talley base. Then establish a reference level on the barrel. That way you can remove the level on the scope base when you install the scope. Then plumb the reticle.
 
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Well i don't have a reference level to set on the barrel so I was trying to find a place to level with my straight level.. that was the only reason I was that far in lol
 
The best group I got with Hornady edl x 178 grain was about 1.5 moa it was shooting out to 3 moa with some accubond tipped.. I now have Barnes, Nosler, and Hornady ssts and they are all lighter weights.. I'm gonna try them but don't have much faith in that it will shoot that much different..
 
Hmm. The rifle has a 1:10 twist so I wouldn't think 178s would be an issue, but you never know maybe the lighter ones will perform better, maybe a similar weight from a different manufacturer. Idk if it holds true for -06 like it does .308, but see if you can find any Gold Metal Match. If a .308 can't shoot a respectable group with FGMM the issue usually lies with the rifle or shooter.

I hope you get it sorted out!
 
Find some cheap Federal Power Shok blue box and Core-lokt soft points to try.
Not flashy, but if neither will group, you have a problem. I try to keep them on hand for common calibers for when I come across problem rifles.
 
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