8x vs. 10x - my take

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Newtosavage
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That's what I have - the ED50 with a 13-30 eyepiece. Doesn't bring in a ton of light beyond 20 power but it also weighs nothing and is tack sharp.

10x42's are great if you can hold them still enough, and most people think they can. When I put my 8's and 10's on a tripod side by side, It's really tough for me to find things that I can see with the 10's that I can't also see with the 8's. I'm choosing the light gathering and wider FOV of the 8's for my "daily driver" and will supplement with the spotter when I really need to see finer detail. There are just too many situations I get into where the extra brightness and FOV is more important to me than the extra magnification. I had to carry 10's for a few years to realize this however.
 
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For the most part it all boils down to what you need the binos to do for you.

I agree 100% on the tripod. Buying a tripod mount for my binos was one of my best purchase lately.

I use a pair of 8 x 42 Nikon Monarchs for my everyday binos here in the east. They will get the job done for whitetail hunting. No, they don't compare to my 10x Swaros. But they will make it past legal shooting light. And if someone were to steal them. It will cost a whole lot less to replace them.

If they ever crap out. I'm going to drop to 8 x 32s.
8x's would probably be optimal for "the east" but out here in the "wide open spaces" 10x's rule I'd day ...
 
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Newtosavage
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8x's would probably be optimal for "the east" but out here in the "wide open spaces" 10x's rule I'd day ...
See my last comment about 8's catching back up to 10's as the light slips away. I agree that in most situations, a person will prefer 10's out West. But when you're really struggling for those last photons of light, I wouldn't be surprised if the 8's will still resolve detail after the 10's have muddied out. There is a point below which our eyes just can't make out details anymore. 8's will buy a person a few more minutes before you reach that point. I only realized this after continuous side-by-side testing from the deer blinds all winter long. It is something to consider.
 

LostArra

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See my last comment about 8's catching back up to 10's as the light slips away. I agree that in most situations, a person will prefer 10's out West. But when you're really struggling for those last photons of light, I wouldn't be surprised if the 8's will still resolve detail after the 10's have muddied out. There is a point below which our eyes just can't make out details anymore. 8's will buy a person a few more minutes before you reach that point. I only realized this after continuous side-by-side testing from the deer blinds all winter long. It is something to consider.


Another advantage for 8x is depth of field. With a bow in hand I do a lot of one-hand glances both from a treestand while deer hunting or in the timber elk hunting. Better depth of field requires less focusing since the depth of sharpness (what is in focus) is "thicker" with 8x and one-hand focusing is not always easy especially with gloves.
 
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Another advantage for 8x is depth of field. With a bow in hand I do a lot of one-hand glances both from a treestand while deer hunting or in the timber elk hunting. Better depth of field requires less focusing since the depth of sharpness (what is in focus) is "thicker" with 8x and one-hand focusing is not always easy especially with gloves.

granted, I am looking at things from a "rifleman's" perspective
 

Beendare

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I totally agree with your first post Newto. My 8x Nikon EDG's are my go to.

if I had a do over it would probably be;
1) a TOL 8x.........Nikon EDG's, Swaro, Leica noctovid or Zeiss Victory

2) the 12x50 Swaros,
3) spotter
 

handwerk

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Although most of my western hunting is done with 10x geovids, if I was not wanting a RF under my finger tip..... to my eyes the most joyous view is through my 8.5x42 Swaro SV's.
 

Shraggs

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I mirror your first post also. My current arsenal

1. Swaro CL companion 8x30 gen 2, upgrade from swaro SLC 8x30 neu. Perfect for timber archery, but also the quick look while on the move. At 17 oz, room for a second optic.

2. Swar 12x50 EL. In more expansive and open areas for finding game, with slik mini 2 tripod. Second optic for me, but can hand hold this for a minute or two, rest and repeat.

3. Zeiss 8x42 FL (older non HD). Amazing light gathering and see most use here in Midwest deer hunting where low light is prime time. If I were rifle hunting elk in west these replace the companions for wider and brighter fov.

4. Nikon ED50. Also second optic and reasonable ability to take a closer look for minimal weight. Paired with my zeiss 8x42.

John
 
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I mirror your first post also. My current arsenal

1. Swaro CL companion 8x30 gen 2, upgrade from swaro SLC 8x30 neu. Perfect for timber archery, but also the quick look while on the move. At 17 oz, room for a second optic.

2. Swar 12x50 EL. In more expansive and open areas for finding game, with slik mini 2 tripod. Second optic for me, but can hand hold this for a minute or two, rest and repeat.

3. Zeiss 8x42 FL (older non HD). Amazing light gathering and see most use here in Midwest deer hunting where low light is prime time. If I were rifle hunting elk in west these replace the companions for wider and brighter fov.

4. Nikon ED50. Also second optic and reasonable ability to take a closer look for minimal weight. Paired with my zeiss 8x42.

John

Good thread here.
I'm similar as well. Sold my 10's a while ago.

1. Hunting at home (Wisconsin): Older Swarovski 8x32 EL's
2. Hunting out west: Newer Swarovski 8.5x42 SV EL's
3. Nikon ED50 to round out my collection
 

Beendare

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To reiterate your 8x philosophy......I see many guys not taking full advantage of their binos.

A lot of guys say binos aren't much help on an elk hunt- I disagree. Heres a couple of examples;

My buddy Rich and I were running and gunning for elk on Mt Adams in Wash. This is a heavily hunted OTC unit- lots of pressure. While calling in the timber I was slowly scanning for elk and lo and behold....a couple of times I picked up slivers of elk 100-300yds out trying to pick us off through the timber. You couldn't see those elk with your naked eye. We ended up shooting one once we realized we had to be stealthier [no movement] and we employed some decoy strategies along with the calling.

Those elk needed to confirm with a visual reference it was in fact another elk doing the calling.

I have since seen the same thing in other hard hunted units. I was hunting in the Wiminuche with my buddy Kirk that is the epitome of run and gun [The guy is a beast in the mountains, hard to keep up with him] I was calling for him on a break in the total shit weather we had with him about 60 yds out in front of me. After about 10 min he gets up and waves for us to go....when I pick up a rag horn coming in super slow about 150 yds out to our left. He never saw the bull and I was trying to signal to him to stop but he was already moving out at a good clip.

I've seen multiple examples of this^ over the years using my binos. I'm convinced there are a lot of times where guys that don't scan with binos just didn't see elk that might have otherwise come in.

If you can learn anything from my mistakes- /grin- over the decades;
1) Choose your Setup when calling
2) Assume there are animals watching you...don't fidget and move around, that movement will give you away
3) slowly scan with your binos so you see them before they see you. This gives you the opportunity to crawl to a better shooting spot if needed.

..
 
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I fully agree that while it is possible to hold 10x binos stable without support, it is so much more enjoyable to bring 8x binos on a hike where I'll be mostly freehanding them.
 
OP
Newtosavage
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Amazon has it for $300 too with free shipping

That's exactly how I bought mine. I figured I had some protection buying through Amazon. It took a few weeks to ship but everything was perfect when it arrived. Tough thing is finding an eyepiece at a decent price. I managed to pick up a used one here for about $150 and I know a guy who makes adapters for Nikon scopes so they can accept standard 1.25" astronomy eyepieces. That is by far the most inexpensive way to fit an eyepiece to these little scopes.
 
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