Annihilator Broadheads

[Sled]

I'm looking for anyone with first hand experience with either the standard or wide model. there are some people out there that say they are not good for quartering shots (due to deflection) and some say they don't cut as well as a standard 3 blade. i have seen the lusk reviews but i don't recall him addressing deflection. so, anyone use them on game animals yet?

 

[Steve1662]

I haven't used them but did listen to an Elk Shape podcast on them. Don't recall them talking specifically about deflection but might be worth a listen. https://elkshape.com/blogs/podcast/korbin-the-archery-psychologist-annihilator-broadheads

I think I'll be given them a try this fall. A concern I have is they'll most likely destroy my target!

 

[Zac]

Any super short stubby head is going to deflect more than something with a long needle like point. This is just physics. That being said I don't think you would have any issues. Every head has experienced some sort of failure that someone is dying to blab about. They are very sharp, have excellent edge retention and fly very well. If you want to build something specific for quartering shots than you need to look at something like the Valkyrie Jagger, or the new 3 blade Tuffhead. You are going to have to shoot significantly more weight with the 3 to 1 ratio heads though. I think you can get the Blood Eagle down to 150 with standard threads.

 

[BucksNBulls]

I have both and have tested both. They won't be in my quiver during hunting season. They come extremely dull. That can be fixed I guess but the original are way small. The XL's are ok for size. The original fly like field points, the XL do not fly as good and they even suggest a 4 vane set up on their website for the XL's. I only run 3 fletch. I'll just keep using the QAD's for now. Side note, If you want a similar style head, check out the new Ozcuts.

As far as deflection, couldn't really tell you. I haven't suck an animal with one yet.

 

[Sled]

If you want a similar style head, check out the new Ozcuts.

I looked at using those but ran into some reviews saying they lost blades when shot on animals. Do you know if they fixed their metal issues?

 

[BucksNBulls]

I looked at using those but ran into some reviews saying they lost blades when shot on animals. Do you know if they fixed their metal issues?

I haven't heard about an issue. I saw John Lusk put them through his torture test and they did well though. These are the new style heads they are making.

 

[Sled]

I haven't heard about an issue. I saw John Lusk put them through his torture test and they did well though. These are the new style heads they are making.
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Oh okay, I was looking at the hurricane. Maybe I'll check out his review and give these a shot. Thanks

 

[Zac]

Ozcut is a very rough unrefined head. The tanto tips onime were very blunt and they rusted very quickly. I would go with Ahnillator any day over Ozcut. Ahnillator uses a better steel I believe. 41L40. That goes through a cryogenic process to line up molecular chains after injection molding. I don't know what steel Ozcut uses but after sharpening it, I'm sure it's far softer. IMO there hasn't been a good head to come out of Australia yet. The only thing that looks promising is possibly those Nexxus shafts.

 

[BucksNBulls]

Ozcut is a very rough unrefined head. The tanto tips onime were very blunt and they rusted very quickly. I would go with Ahnillator any day over Ozcut. Ahnillator uses a better steel I believe. 41L40. That goes through a cryogenic process to line up molecular chains after injection molding. I don't know what steel Ozcut uses but after sharpening it, I'm sure it's far softer. IMO there hasn't been a good head to come out of Australia yet. The only thing that looks promising is possibly those Nexxus shafts.

I haven't had the chance to test the Ozcuts yet as they are still sitting on the shelf. But I can tell you that if you're going to use the Annihilators you better sharpen them first. They come very dull. I have a video of me running one on my arm right out of the package, pushing very hard and there are no cuts being made. If I had done the same with say a QAD I would have bleed out. I will say the original fly very true but the XL's not so good.

 

[Zac]

I haven't had the chance to test the Ozcuts yet as they are still sitting on the shelf. But I can tell you that if you're going to use the Annihilators you better sharpen them first. They come very dull. I have a video of me running one on my arm right out of the package, pushing very hard and there are no cuts being made. If I had done the same with say a QAD I would have bleed out. I will say the original fly very true but the XL's not so good.

You would have the same experience with a Valkyrie. If you were to run your arm at a vertical angle you would filet your arm open. Monolithic heads usually have narrower blade angles than replacement blade heads. This is usually to increase durability. The heads that resemble your shaving razor will usually lack the same durability and edge retention. Not saying this about the Exodus. This is just a general rule.

 

[corey006]

150 gr XL. @ 70 yards.

Rayzr 3 fletch.

Anyone that says these dont fly well or group well either has bad arrow...OR untuned bow...

They fly as well as ANY fixed blade I have tried.

 

[corey006]

Unfortunately I am running out of time trying to get a really sharp edge on these broadheads.

To me they really dropped the ball on this....

I got the StaySharrp 344 curved jig.

Went through the steps.

Stropped the blades.

Got shaving sharp but they wont cut rubber bands like a really sharp broadhead.

This might be due to blade angle?

Out of package they were horribly dull....

 

[Jbxl20]

Following. I have mine shot in to 60. They group well with field points after some small adjustments. Now I’m looking for the best method for sharpening.

 

[Zac]

 

[corey006]

He does NOT demonstrate the end result?

mine are shaving sharp...and I am sure they would kill....but they are NOT sharp enough for me.

I want my broadheads so sharp I am scared to touch them....

 

[Zac]

He does NOT demonstrate the end result?

mine are shaving sharp...and I am sure they would kill....but they are NOT sharp enough for me.

I want my broadheads so sharp I am scared to touch them....

I don't know if you will ever achieve that with a mold injection head.

 

[corey006]

I don't know if you will ever achieve that with a mold injection head.

Probably not....BUT Anihilators are machined from tool steel?

 

[TheViking]

Unfortunately I am running out of time trying to get a really sharp edge on these broadheads.

To me they really dropped the ball on this....

I got the StaySharrp 344 curved jig.

Went through the steps.

Stropped the blades.

Got shaving sharp but they wont cut rubber bands like a really sharp broadhead.

This might be due to blade angle?

Out of package they were horribly dull....

Blade angle in my opinion.

 

[Zac]

Probably not....BUT Anihilators are machined from tool steel?

They are, they also do some sort of cryogenic process I think in order to get the molecular chains in order. The issue with molds is that the steel hardens in a chaotic order. The molecules will be dispersed randomly throughout the material which makes it almost impossible to line out into a razor edge. G5 Montec is best example of this.

 

[choosevelt]

Not sure if anyone is following this still, but I figured I’d throw my 2 cents in, take it for what it’s worth. I shot a whitetail this season with a 100gr Annihilator, total arrow weight 406. Lighter than I want but just getting into it. It was a close shot and I was pretty high in the tree, which created a steep angle. Pushed it a little more left than I had wanted, but the arrow punched right through the top of the scapula, caught one lung, top of the heart/arteries, and passed through the shoulder meat opposite side. Deer went down within 40 yds.

Tuning them to fly with my field tips to 40 was easy for a rookie like me, and that’s as far as you could dream to shoot in the woods where this deer was. They are dull, but a stone got them decently sharp for me. The wound channel seemed great, it went through bone no problem, and the idea of cavitation created by the hole seemed accurate, given that it didn’t seal back up. The blood trail wasn’t great, but thankfully I didn’t have to rely on it. Will be using them again this year and hope to have some more input on them. Hope this helps anyone going back through old threads, always good info in the search bar.