Centerfire rifle drop testing: Tikka/SWFA

[thinhorn_AK]

I have written before that some T3’s (about 30% from what have seen) will shift up to around .3 mil/1” at 100 yards from 36” drops. In all cases that I have personally done so, spot bedding the tang and lug, and torquing action screws to 65 in-lbs has stopped that.




As far as dropping your own rifle system, I would highly recommend reading how and why I do it the way I do. You need to know that the scope works first, then you can proof rings and rifle. Also, it does not take 36” drops for personal use just to proof your system with known reliable components. If it’s unknown, or an item that has questionable reliability, then the whole thing is prudent.
I drop my rifles from 36”, but most I know that are using solid, known rifles/scopes/rings/etc all mounted the way I outline, check their personal rifles from 24” drops on left and right sides. Their just making sure everything is in order, not trying to break something.

Can you go into a bit more detail about proofing rings and rifle etc? I guess I've missed where you have written about it but I'm very interested in getting more serious about that aspect of my rifles. Would you basically drop test them like you do in the scope reviews or is there more to it? for example, a tikka t3x with sportsmatch rings, what process would you use to be confident/proofed on a setup like that.

Thank you.

 

[SteveAndTheCrigBoys]

Can you go into a bit more detail about proofing rings and rifle etc? I guess I've missed where you have written about it but I'm very interested in getting more serious about that aspect of my rifles. Would you basically drop test them like you do in the scope reviews or is there more to it? for example, a tikka t3x with sportsmatch rings, what process would you use to be confident/proofed on a setup like that.

Thank you.

Was going to ask a similar question. I'd like to test my setup out this summer.

 

[Old Dog]

Thank you.

I would be curious what people are actually getting if they put 30 rounds down range in less than 30 minutes without using a bench.

Sorry I'm a little dense. So you shot these offhand?

 

[stephane110]

Can you go into a bit more detail about proofing rings and rifle etc? I guess I've missed where you have written about it but I'm very interested in getting more serious about that aspect of my rifles. Would you basically drop test them like you do in the scope reviews or is there more to it? for example, a tikka t3x with sportsmatch rings, what process would you use to be confident/proofed on a setup like that.

Thank you.

I think it’s this

Scope mounting to maintain zero

After multiple requests for an explanation of how to mount a scope in order to have the lowest possibility of loss of zero, a discussion of a scope mounting video, and the latest thread about scope bases and action screw coming loose, I took some pics of what I do with a rifle when I get it and...

rokslide.com

 

[thinhorn_AK]

I think it’s this

Scope mounting to maintain zero

After multiple requests for an explanation of how to mount a scope in order to have the lowest possibility of loss of zero, a discussion of a scope mounting video, and the latest thread about scope bases and action screw coming loose, I took some pics of what I do with a rifle when I get it and...

rokslide.com

Ahh. Well I’ve been doing that ever since he posted that up years ago. I was hoping there was something else to do.

 

[JFK]

Too many variables at once to pin anything down as the culprit. The fact that the group before it was dropped wasn’t very good indicates it may just not like that load. I’d leave the rifle alone for now and try another powder.

 

[Marbles]

Sorry I'm a little dense. So you shot these offhand?

I whish. Prone using a pack as a front rest.

 

[JohnJohnson]

I whish. Prone using a pack as a front rest.

Out of curiosity, why not with a bipod and rear bag to eliminate as much shooter error as possible for the assessment?

 

[Marbles]

Out of curiosity, why not with a bipod and rear bag to eliminate as much shooter error as possible for the assessment?

Don't have a rear bag. I have a Spartan bipod, but don't have an adapter for that stock.

 

[JNDEER]

Can you go into a bit more detail about proofing rings and rifle etc? I guess I've missed where you have written about it but I'm very interested in getting more serious about that aspect of my rifles. Would you basically drop test them like you do in the scope reviews or is there more to it? for example, a tikka t3x with sportsmatch rings, what process would you use to be confident/proofed on a setup like that.

Thank you.

I did read the "how to mount a scope".. however, I do think a sticky from @Formidilosus on what a person could do to actually test to ensure their rifle and scope are proofed would be appreciated. Understanding the premise that the scope will fail before the rifle, but if we choose to test our own gear than how would we rule one or the other out?

Is it as simple as install scope per instructions, dial scope at range, 24" drop on sides and re-shoot. If still holding zero, its good to go? What if we take a "known" proofed scope (SWFA for example) follow install instructions perform a drop test and re-shoot to find its off - What should be adjust first, second or adjust all and re-shoot?

 

[Formidilosus]

Can you go into a bit more detail about proofing rings and rifle etc? I guess I've missed where you have written about it but I'm very interested in getting more serious about that aspect of my rifles. Would you basically drop test them like you do in the scope reviews or is there more to it? for example, a tikka t3x with sportsmatch rings, what process would you use to be confident/proofed on a setup like that.

Thank you.

Apologies for the delay.

For that setup (really any), everything gets taken apart- action from stock, screws, rings, bases- everything. Free float barrel heavily. Then everything gets degreased with brake cleaner or alcohol; every screw, every screw hole, the action- all of it. . Then paint pen or loctite the action to 65in-lbs in the stock. Mount the scope as per the thread.

Zero and shoot a 20-30 shot group ( 3x10sgot groups usually). Using the correct mat, drop three times from 18 to 24 inches, check zero. If zero held correctly, it’s done. If it shifted, tighten scope ring caps 5’ish in-lbs more. Rezero, and redo the 18-24” drops. If it held zero, it’s done. If it lost zero- take everything apart, spot bed lug and tang. Degrease, reassemble as above, rezero, redrop. If it holds, it’s don’t. If it doesn’t- new scope.

Basically, a few 18-24” drops on the correct surface is enough to check known components. If it’s a rifle system, mounting system, or scope that aren’t known models, or don’t have a long history of correct function, then it/they go through the full initial eval.

 

[Marbles]

I will work on my shooting a bit before drop testing again. However, I pulled everything apart. Replaced the rings with UM lows (just because I had them) with 35 in/lb for ring cap screws and 50 in/lb for rings to rail. The action screws are now at 65 in/lb.

I think the large ES is in part due to the cold. Not sure if it is the powder/primer and temp or that the Garmin does not like being cold. It was -2 today, 5-8 mph wind straight into my face.

Loaded up 40 rounds, was carful to use the cover for the scale.

Shot 20 outside (I may have bumped the Garmin as it only counted 14).

Before I started I put 20 in the heated shooting shack to stay warm (40 degree temp inside). I then shot 8 rounds of other ammo to warm the gun up once I was inside. Things tightened up a bit.


Some 10 round groups.


And rapid fire breaking the position and rebuilding ever 4 shots.

 

[Marbles]

Well, I have put 600 rounds through my 223 Tikka since January 14th. My groups are shrinking, this is the same batch of reloads as last weekend. Wind was 5-12 mph coming from 1-2 O-clock

Did a dialing test, shooting 1 shot at 0, then the next at 2.3 mils up, then back down and repeat for 32 shots total.


And analysis of the two groups. On the lower group I forgot to account for 2 shots, both are 16 round groups.


Just some other groups from today.


And a comparison to the first 30 round group I shot on 1/14 to show improvement.

 

[thinhorn_AK]

Apologies for the delay.

For that setup (really any), everything gets taken apart- action from stock, screws, rings, bases- everything. Free float barrel heavily. Then everything gets degreased with brake cleaner or alcohol; every screw, every screw hole, the action- all of it. . Then paint pen or loctite the action to 65in-lbs in the stock. Mount the scope as per the thread.

Zero and shoot a 20-30 shot group ( 3x10sgot groups usually). Using the correct mat, drop three times from 18 to 24 inches, check zero. If zero held correctly, it’s done. If it shifted, tighten scope ring caps 5’ish in-lbs more. Rezero, and redo the 18-24” drops. If it held zero, it’s done. If it lost zero- take everything apart, spot bed lug and tang. Degrease, reassemble as above, rezero, redrop. If it holds, it’s don’t. If it doesn’t- new scope.

Basically, a few 18-24” drops on the correct surface is enough to check known components. If it’s a rifle system, mounting system, or scope that aren’t known models, or don’t have a long history of correct function, then it/they go through the full initial eval.

When you say free float the barrel, are you talking about just grinding down that one ridge in the plastic stock? Or is there more?

 

[Formidilosus]

When you say free float the barrel, are you talking about just grinding down that one ridge in the plastic stock? Or is there more?

The whole way. Throw a dead cat through the gap.

 

[thinhorn_AK]

The whole way. Throw a dead cat through the gap.

What’s the best way to do that? Sorry for the series of questions and thanks for the reply.

 

[JGRaider]

I've never had to touch the speed bumps located 3-4" in front of the lug in about 10 different Tikkas. I've bedded the lug on a couple but that's all the mods I've found necessary for extremely accurate hunting loads.

 

[HighUintas]

What’s the best way to do that? Sorry for the series of questions and thanks for the reply.

Either sandpaper wrapped on a dowel or a Dremel tool. I used a Dremel tool and it looks like a rat chewed it all up, but it works and was quick.

 

[Formidilosus]

What’s the best way to do that? Sorry for the series of questions and thanks for the reply.

I’ve used sandpaper around a rod, Dremel, knives, a hatchet, etc.

 

[ResearchinStuff]

What’s the best way to do that? Sorry for the series of questions and thanks for the reply.

I did a super detailed tikka stock set up here:

How I Modify My Tikka Factory Stocks

This is the start to finish process I use on my tikka factory stocks to help them have a consistent POI and improve shootability. None of this is completely new information, but there are a few unique things I do, and this is a consolidation post. This is stuff that I'm capable of doing to my...

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