Disappointed in ELD-X/Tikka... Advice?

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Apr 17, 2022
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Like many of us here, I have a Tikka T3x Superlite. Unlike many of us, I've been surprised at how poorly it shoots so far, particularly with 162 ELD-X factory ammo. (Disclaimer, I am a Tikka fan and will remain as such. I have a T3 Varmint .223 that shoots around 0.35" groups consistently with hand loads.) The 7mm still has factory barrel and stock, the only changes are a fluted bolt and cerakoted action. Scope is Nightforce NSX 2.5-10x42, sitting in Hawkins Precision rings on an Area419 20moa rail.

Every now and then I will shoot a surprising 1/2moa group, but most 3-round or 5-round groups are in the 2moa to 2.5moa range. I am usually shooting off bags and seated at a bench, but have the same issue shooting prone. This has been mostly Hornady ELD-X 162gr, but I have shot Federal Trophy Copper 140gr and Federal Fusion 150gr with comparable results. At $40-$80/box it's tough to want to bounce around on ammo choice and I like the ELD-X performance.

I've done some reading here and learned A LOT thanks to some great info posted by users. I'm aware of the common issue with torque on the action screws and improper seating of recoil lug after re-assembly. Though I've seen differing opinions I have settled on 45in lbs rear, 50in lbs front for the screws. I've done the "tap the stock gently on the ground to seat the recoil lug" thing. AFAIK I've properly assembled and torqued the rifle.

So, the TL;DR version of a long winded post: Is anyone struggling to find accuracy with their T3x Superlite? Do I just suck? Am I the one guy who's not loving ELD-X? Thanks in advance for any pointers, this site and its user have been a MASSIVE help to my quest to become a better hunter and shooter.
 

Spoonbill

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Did you shoot the gun before getting it cerakoted? I ask because I had a tikka cerakoted and ended up paying another gunsmith to fix some problems caused by the guy who did the cerakote. The gunsmith told me he has had to fix a lot of guns that have been cerakoted. I had material in my barrel from the sand blasting and failures to fire, none of which were a problem in the 7 years before I got the gun cerakoted.
 

Tahoe1305

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Did you shoot the gun before getting it cerakoted? I ask because I had a tikka cerakoted and ended up paying another gunsmith to fix some problems caused by the guy who did the cerakote. The gunsmith told me he has had to fix a lot of guns that have been cerakoted. I had material in my barrel from the sand blasting and failures to fire, none of which were a problem in the 7 years before I got the gun cerakoted.
My buddy did same and had to fix it too.
 
OP
T
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Did you shoot the gun before getting it cerakoted? I ask because I had a tikka cerakoted and ended up paying another gunsmith to fix some problems caused by the guy who did the cerakote. The gunsmith told me he has had to fix a lot of guns that have been cerakoted. I had material in my barrel from the sand blasting and failures to fire, none of which were a problem in the 7 years before I got the gun cerakoted.

I wish I had shot it before. I wanted to cerakote before mounting my scope, so I didn't end up shooting before-hand. I haven't had any FTF or malfunctions, and from my sorta-kinda experienced opinion didn't see any issues in the bore or barrel with overspray or sandblasting imperfections.
 

Tmac

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Generally the advice would be to switch scopes and verify base/rings are tight, then try more ammo. But, since you had it cerakoted, I would remove the barreled action from the stock, verify the recoil lug is in there correctly and then carefully reattach the stock with a torque wrench. Sometimes that recoil lug can be an issue as it floats. Makes it a 3 part system. The stock, the BA and the lug. Another quick check is for any nick or anomaly on the crown. If that does not work I’d move on to the regulars; scope, rings, bases, other bedding issues, etc.
 
OP
T
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As much as I hate to admit, I also have to consider if I am becoming more recoil shy than I'd like... This AM I shot 3 strings of 3 rounds. The first was one of those random sub-moa groups at 0.53". The next 2 groups were 2.37" and 2.01" respectively. I tried to pay attention and make sure I didn't change anything, I really felt that my fundamentals were consistent for all 3 groups.

Generally the advice would be to switch scopes and verify base/rings are tight, then try more ammo. But, since you had it cerakoted, I would remove the barreled action from the stock, verify the recoil lug is in there correctly and then carefully reattach the stock with a torque wrench. Sometimes that recoil lug can be an issue as it floats. Makes it a 3 part system. The stock, the BA and the lug. Another quick check is for any nick or anomaly on the crown. If that does not work I’d move on to the regulars; scope, rings, bases, other bedding issues, etc.

I appreciate the input. Maybe I need to re-verify the lug is seated properly. Am I way off with 45inlb rear and 50inlb front? From what I read that seems to be right in the middle of what's suggested.
 

Spoonbill

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As much as I hate to admit, I also have to consider if I am becoming more recoil shy than I'd like... This AM I shot 3 strings of 3 rounds. The first was one of those random sub-moa groups at 0.53". The next 2 groups were 2.37" and 2.01" respectively. I tried to pay attention and make sure I didn't change anything, I really felt that my fundamentals were consistent for all 3 groups.



I appreciate the input. Maybe I need to re-verify the lug is seated properly. Am I way off with 45inlb rear and 50inlb front? From what I read that seems to be right in the middle of what's suggested.
Have you had someone else shoot it? There is a chance it is user error, so if you have a friend who is not as recoil shy, have them shoot it. Out of curiosity, what is your tikka chambered in?
 
OP
T
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Have you had someone else shoot it? There is a chance it is user error, so if you have a friend who is not as recoil shy, have them shoot it. Out of curiosity, what is your tikka chambered in?

I have had my hunting buddy shoot it. Not that I'm some superstar, but I can usually outshoot him by quite a bit. He had the same results on group size. It is chambered in 7mm Rem Mag, I still have some ELD-X left but I did order some 155gr Terminal Ascent just for giggles to see if 7 less grains makes a change.
 
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Assuming everything was put back together properly...

Your Varminter in 223 is about 8 pounds bare. Your SuperLite in 7mm RM is about 6 pounds bare. Take the SuperLite (96 oz), rings/base (4 oz) plus the NXS (20.5 oz), and you're just over 7.5 pounds. There is going to be a noticeable difference in recoil.
 
OP
T
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Assuming everything was put back together properly...

Your Varminter in 223 is about 8 pounds bare. Your SuperLite in 7mm RM is about 6 pounds bare. Take the SuperLite (96 oz), rings/base (4 oz) plus the NXS (20.5 oz), and you're just over 7.5 pounds. There is going to be a noticeable difference in recoil.

Well sure, the recoil difference is night and day... I'm not getting any younger and after about 12rds with the 7lb 7mm I'm done for the day. Almost wish I had gone with the PRC instead, but the guys I usually hunt with sold me on the Rem Mag. One, two, or (hopefully not) 3 rounds in the field wouldn't be an issue at all. Thumping away at the bench is a different story!
 

Formidilosus

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I've done some reading here and learned A LOT thanks to some great info posted by users. I'm aware of the common issue with torque on the action screws and improper seating of recoil lug after re-assembly. Though I've seen differing opinions I have settled on 45in lbs rear, 50in lbs front for the screws. I've done the "tap the stock gently on the ground to seat the recoil lug" thing. AFAIK I've properly assembled and torqued the rifle.


Start at the start- have you sanded out the barrel channel and barrel bumps at all?
 

mt100gr.

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I've been around a few 7RM Tikkas and if you can try some 168gr Berger HVLD ammo, it's been very accurate. The 168gr Classic Hunter bullets are very good, too.

The 7RM Superlite has a pretty stout recoil. When I first started shooting mine I was pretty bummed with the accuracy. It took an honest 250+ rounds through that rifle with strong focus on fundamentals to teach myself how to manage that recoil. My vote is for a lot of purposeful trigger time.
 

sdupontjr

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Oct 8, 2019
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I'm in same boat. Tried the 162 eld-x in my T3 7 mag and shot like crap. I decided to pick up the match versions 162 eld-m which is basically the old Amax and loaded some up. Got up to 71g H-1000, no pressure signs. Best 5 shot group today was just at 1 moa at 70g. My nose may be lower but started to storm. So didnt shoot anymore.
 
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Apr 14, 2015
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My Tikka T3 SL 7RM was picky when I bought it about seven years ago. Would not group 140 or 150 grain. Tried Barnes 160 grain TTS factory and it groups <MOA consistently. Has been good on game. Limbsaver is the only thing I added.
 
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May have missed it but limbsaver pad makes a very large difference IMO. I didn’t like the stock pad.
I was just about to suggest the airtech pad as well. My buddy borrowed my 7 mag this weekend and is convinced it made it feel like it has less recoil than his 308
 

Gila

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As much as I hate to admit, I also have to consider if I am becoming more recoil shy than I'd like... This AM I shot 3 strings of 3 rounds. The first was one of those random sub-moa groups at 0.53". The next 2 groups were 2.37" and 2.01" respectively. I tried to pay attention and make sure I didn't change anything, I really felt that my fundamentals were consistent for all 3 groups.



I appreciate the input. Maybe I need to re-verify the lug is seated properly. Am I way off with 45inlb rear and 50inlb front? From what I read that seems to be right in the middle of what's suggested.
According to trial and error….I‘ve bolted in an action only a dozen times or so….40lbs for both. The recoil lug just sits in plastic. I’ve always felt the lug contact the action and there should be no play. Since you cerokoted, I would check to make sure the barrel is still floated. Just take some copier paper should move freely under the barrel. Replace the recoil pad with a Limbsaver standard model for a Tikka:

LimbSaver Classic Precision-Fit Recoil Pad for Synthetic Stocks 10011​

 
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