Draw length?

[jaypope]

Hey guys I’m new to traditional archery so forgive my ignorance.

I have an older Hoyt Tiburon recurve with 45# short formula limbs, Pat Norris springy rest, 3under tab & a Black Eagle Vintage arrow test kit that comes with (1) 350, (1) 400, (1) 500 & (1) 600 spine arrows.

I’m actually waiting on the arrow test kit but it should be delivered any day. It’s two weeks late so I expect it by the new year. Fingers crossed.

My question is what’s the proper way to determine your correct draw length when shooting a recurve? I realize my draw length will be what it will be based on my anchor point. I’m just curious to know what it actually ends up at once I have practiced enough to feel comfortable with my anchor point, shot sequence, release, follow through, etc.

I’ve shot a compound for many years and my draw length is 28.25”. I’ve talked to some guys that say my draw length when shooting a recurve will be as much as an inch less although other guys say it should be close to the same. This probably has to do with the fact that each person is unique in how they anchor a bow so two guys with the same body measurements and the same bow might have a different different draw lengths. Is that correct?

When my arrow test kit is delivered I plan to keep the arrows full length until I’m very comfortable with my shot. When I draw back a full length arrow is my draw length the length of the arrow to the front side of the shelf? Or to the inside of the grip?

 

[Wilderlife]

There are a few ways you can do it. I've come to full draw with a full-length arrow on my bow a few times and had my partner make a mark on the arrow where the front of the riser is. Another way is to put a clothes peg on the arrow and it will slide along the arrow as you draw and stop when you get to full draw.

At the end of the day, there are stacks of variables with draw length on a trad bow. It's one of the finer points of a shot sequence and it will be difficult for you to be consistent with draw length until everything to do with your posture, anchor point, and expansion/back tension is coming along nicely.

 

[Billy Goat]

Your draw length is likely to change as you become more aquatinted with the recurve. Your actual draw length will be to the throat of the grip, then add 1 3/4". Generally the front of the riser is pretty close to that measurement.

 

[oldgoat]

Your draw length is likely to change as you become more aquatinted with the recurve. Your actual draw length will be to the throat of the grip, then add 1 3/4". Generally the front of the riser is pretty close to that measurement.

This, and your arrows will be whatever length they need to be to be tuned, not some certain predetermined length. Some guys can get around that with an Ilf setup, but the normal stickbow it isn't that easy and the arrows end up what they end up to be tuned

 

[Mythewood]

What oldgoat said.
My old compound draw was something like 28" but my trad draw is somewhere like 26-27". I honestly don't know. I tuned my arrows to fly as perfectly as possible and that currently works with 30" 400 carbons with a 250gr head.
Years of monkeying around with shorter arrows because believed the broadhead should damn near touch the riser.

 

[jaypope]

What oldgoat said.
My old compound draw was something like 28" but my trad draw is somewhere like 26-27". I honestly don't know. I tuned my arrows to fly as perfectly as possible and that currently works with 30" 400 carbons with a 250gr head.
Years of monkeying around with shorter arrows because believed the broadhead should damn near touch the riser.

Which trad bow do you shoot? Riser length, limb #, total bow length? Just curious.

 

[Page Master]

I think when I first set up my recurve I was drawing 26-27''. I am 28.5'' on all of my compounds. After working with a coach for a little bit and shooting quite a bit more I think I am stretched out to 28'' on my recurve. Mine now is about 54# at 28''. I ordered a new one that will be 47#/28''.

Being over bowed can limit your effective draw length significantly, so make sure you're not cheaping yourself out. 1-2'' of draw is more advantageous than 5-10 extra pounds that you're not even drawing back enough to achieve.

 

[jaypope]

Being over bowed can limit your effective draw length significantly, so make sure you're not cheaping yourself out. 1-2'' of draw is more advantageous than 5-10 extra pounds that you're not even drawing back enough to achieve.

I totally agree with the above quote.

What allowed you to increase your initial recurve draw length from 26-27” to 28”? I assume it had something to do with your anchor point???

Here’s some additional info about my trad journey....

I traded for a AMP Red Wing Hunter that’s 41# @ 28” back in late November. I’ve been blind baling with this recurve for a month (trying to figure out proper shooting form without having a coach). I watch YouTube videos for tips on shooting and such. The arrows that came with the Red Wing recurve are cut down to 27” so I can’t come to “full draw”.

I’m anxious to get my BE Vintage & field point test kits in the mail from 3Rivers very soon (they’re over 2.5 weeks late - thanks USPS) so I can start the arrow tuning process. I plan to keep the arrows at least 32” long when I do start cutting them down. I also ordered BE 100gr brass inserts for my arrows. I’ll glue the inserts in and cut them down from the rear and apply electrical tape to attain the weight of my wrap & feathers.

 

[Page Master]

I totally agree with the above quote.

What allowed you to increase your initial recurve draw length from 26-27” to 28”? I assume it had something to do with your anchor point???

Here’s some additional info about my trad journey....

I traded for a AMP Red Wing Hunter that’s 41# @ 28” back in late November. I’ve been blind baling with this recurve for a month (trying to figure out proper shooting form without having a coach). I watch YouTube videos for tips on shooting and such. The arrows that came with the Red Wing recurve are cut down to 27” so I can’t come to “full draw”.

I’m anxious to get my BE Vintage & field point test kits in the mail from 3Rivers very soon (they’re over 2.5 weeks late - thanks USPS) so I can start the arrow tuning process. I plan to keep the arrows at least 32” long when I do start cutting them down. I also ordered BE 100gr brass inserts for my arrows. I’ll glue the inserts in and cut them down from the rear and apply electrical tape to attain the weight of my wrap & feathers.

Understanding proper alignment, form, practice and some extra help. I was scrunched up and collapsed at ''full draw''. My true draw was always 28'' or so, but I wasn't using it. Improper alignment made 55# way heavier than it needed to be, so finding the true form I was supposed to be in made it possible and I wasn't short changing myself anymore.

I also shoot compounds extensively, so the muscles and ability was there, but the mechanics weren't translating until I saw a coach. If that makes sense.

 

[Mythewood]

Which trad bow do you shoot? Riser length, limb #, total bow length? Just curious.

I'm shooting a 56" Javaman "Elkheart" 2 piece takedown longbow. It is 50#@26". It is a fast super lightweight pack able bow that's just a delight to carry and shoot. "Real Elven archery," is the only thing I think when I hold and look at that bow.

 

[Billy Goat]

When I first started with sticks I was drawing 27.25. I was shooting a compound at 28.5-29 depending on the bow.


I hadn't measured what I was shooting with a trad bow for a while, but at some point someone had a draw arrow so I checked it, and I was drawing 28.5.

I think it's just learning the technique. It's hard on you, overbowing doesn't help. I had shot a stick bow a fair amount before, but once I really tried to get serious stuff changed.

I haven't ever cared too much what I drew, I just shot them, tuned to the bow and how I was shooting.

 

[Beendare]

My dl is a little longer with a recurve....but Im an outlier as I shoot a compound with a slightly bent arm. Your DL should be close to a compound.

maybe start practicing holding at full draw and expanding into your shot to build strength with that bow as its about 3x what you are holding at FD with your compound.