has anyone successfully removed HIT inserts from Axis shafts?

[bbassi]

I tried the Ranch Fairy's flying drill bit method and heating a long field tip to break the glue bond. Neither worked.

 

[jmez]

If they were put in correctly the only way to get them out is cut the arrow off.

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[2Stamp]

The drill bit method has worked for me every time but one. I usually really have to swing it hard to get them to break free.

 

[fatlander]

Drill bit never worked for Easton 2 part epoxy for me.

I’ve read you can use all thread and a torch. Heat the all thread until the glue loosens enough to pull out. Tried it with a field point to no avail.

I really think if the 2 part epoxy was done right, you’re not getting it out.


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[JD Jones]

I have not removed them but could have ... I had one insert not seat all the way on my last dozen. I installed a field point, I heated it up with a mini torch while applying pressure. When the glue "released", the HIT set correctly. Mind you I use AAE glue not the Easton glue. Reverse the process a bit by pulling vs pushing on that field point. Might have a different experience but worth a shot. Dont apply heat to that carbon directly though. Worst case it doesn't work then you have to cut the shaft or scrap completely

 

[Reburn]

I havent much used 2 part epoxy but I have used BSI rubber glue and have NOT been able to successfully get one out with the drill bit method or heating up a field point. I was able to at least get one out by swinging the drill bit enough to break the end of the shaft. My arm was tired afterward and the shaft was ruined.

 

[go4thegusto]

I have ground the shank (guide shoulder) on a field point so it does not contact the carbon arrow. Heat it up with a torch and carefully screw in loose. Let sit a bit to transfer heat to HIT and then pull with a pliers. I have a rubber jaw plastic vise I put arrow in so I can pull hard on field point.
I don't make a habit of it but it has worked.....

 

[Margotron]

Torch, field point and patience. Works.

 

[Jakeb]

You have to heat up the field tip really hot, it’s got to get hot enough to transfer the heat to the insert. I use some vise grips to pull the tip and try to get them out as soon as the glue breaks free to try and prevent the carbon from getting hotter then it needs to. Some people say you shouldn’t do it that way, but I’ve personally never had an issue.

I use a propane soldiering iron with the tip removed. It needs a little more heat then you can get from a bic lighter. Although I imagine it could be done. I unscrew the field tip a few turns to try and slow the heat transfer into the carbon aswell.

Your only other option is to cut the arrow really, the drill bit method has never worked for me.

 

[MattB]

Mine come out with just a bit of heat, but then again I am using hot melt and not epoxy or super glue.

 

[Beendare]

If they were put in correctly the only way to get them out is cut the arrow off.

Delete

 

[bbassi]

Thanks everyone. I bought a couple dozen at a good price so if I can't get them out I'll play with point weight first to see if I can get them to fly. If I have to cut them I should have enough left over to work with (27" draw).

 

[5MilesBack]

I ruined the back end of one of my arrows one time, and since that arrow was already ruined, I tried that drill bit method just to see if it would work. Well, I swung and swung that thing for several minutes before I noticed a raised bulge in the arrow shaft right where the back end of the HIT insert was. So the insert was still firmly epoxied, but the drill bit had mushroomed the back end of the HIT which caused that bulge in the arrow shaft.

So then I tried the torch method with an 8/32" threaded rod so as to not heat up the inside of the shaft with the FP shank. I had the arrow in the vise and I pulled and pulled on that rod with vise grips while heating it. When it finally did break free and pull out, several spirals of carbon came with it. Probably because of the bulge in the back end. But I've also tried this method without the drill bit bulge and it did the same thing. And that's what I'm talking about......inserts that actually stay put. I don't want my inserts moving at all.......ever......after I've put them in.

 

[Billy Goat]

Thanks everyone. I bought a couple dozen at a good price so if I can't get them out I'll play with point weight first to see if I can get them to fly. If I have to cut them I should have enough left over to work with (27" draw).

Strip fletching, cut from nock end,reflect, assuming you are trying to go a little shorter.

If wanting to replace with heavier inserts, I don't know if you will be able to re-epoxy inserts in to the area that you removed previous inserts from, and especially heat was used to break the bond, I'd be nervous of damage and say it's likely not worth the headache. Use heavier heads, collars, and so forth to get the weight you want.

 

[butcherboy]

I never use the epoxy. I use a low melting point hot melt glue that is more rubbery than hard. I never have an insert come out in a target. The only inserts that come out are when I quickly heat up a field point with a small torch and then pull it all out. Takes about 20-30 seconds to get one out.

 

[Marble]

Thanks everyone. I bought a couple dozen at a good price so if I can't get them out I'll play with point weight first to see if I can get them to fly. If I have to cut them I should have enough left over to work with (27" draw).

Can you just trim an inch off and put new inserts in?

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[5MilesBack]

Can you just trim an inch off and put new inserts in?

Only if he can get the rest of the HIT out. But the bottom of the HIT's sit almost 1.75" inside the shafts.

 

[Marble]

Only if he can get the rest of the HIT out. But the bottom of the HIT's sit almost 1.75" inside the shafts.

Copy...It's been so long since i had to cut one out. Thanks

I would just sell them probably.

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[kkilt967]

I ruined the back end of one of my arrows one time, and since that arrow was already ruined, I tried that drill bit method just to see if it would work. Well, I swung and swung that thing for several minutes before I noticed a raised bulge in the arrow shaft right where the back end of the HIT insert was. So the insert was still firmly epoxied, but the drill bit had mushroomed the back end of the HIT which caused that bulge in the arrow shaft.

So then I tried the torch method with an 8/32" threaded rod so as to not heat up the inside of the shaft with the FP shank. I had the arrow in the vise and I pulled and pulled on that rod with vise grips while heating it. When it finally did break free and pull out, several spirals of carbon came with it. Probably because of the bulge in the back end. But I've also tried this method without the drill bit bulge and it did the same thing. And that's what I'm talking about......inserts that actually stay put. I don't want my inserts moving at all.......ever......after I've put them in.

Same happened

 

[mfllood3800]

drill bit never worked for me. When I heated the tip while threaded into the insert, it came out with strings of carbon attached to it. I usually consider them done and won't try to remove the HIT again. Causes a lot of stress on the shaft, I like my left hand.