Help with barrel contour

Brandon_SPC

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I need some opinions on barrel contour for a 300 prc. Currently I have a standard Remington 700 LA chambered in 300 ultra that I would like to do something with it and I'm thinking about having it rebarreled to a 300 prc for the next rifle ( I just want to try something different). Reason I'm sticking with the 30 cal is I have ALOT of 200-225 grain bullets sitting at the house. With this rebarrel I would like to keep the bare rifle roughly 8-9lbs. Here is what I am currently thinking:
-26" McGowen Barrel with a Douglas #5 contour and fluting. Barrel weight estimated to be 3.2lbs/ 51.2 ounces
- McMillan Game Warden Adjustable stock 2.75lbs/ 44 ounces
- Little Bastard Muzzle brake 4.1 oz
- Remington 700 LA I think weighs 39 ounces
Total = 8.6 lbs or 138.3 ounces

If I did my calculations correctly this should fall in the range of 8-9lbs (not counting the extra weight of optics and bipod). Now my question is will the #5 contour be sufficient for this cartridge? It's just going to solely be a hunting rifle and me practicing to get ready for the hunt and that's it.
 

Cahunter805

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I personally would go with a #4 fluted especially at 26”. Better balance and a little lighter weight which should still falll in you target weight especially once base and rings are added.
 
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Brandon_SPC

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I personally would go with a #4 fluted especially at 26”. Better balance and a little lighter weight which should still falll in you target weight especially once base and rings are added.
I thought about that but I'm worried if I did that my rifle will be too light and amplify my breathing and any minor error I have on my end. I have never shot a sub 9lb rifle with optics out past 500 yards. All the shooting I have done past that is on roughly a 10lb rifle. Thoughts? Would it amplify it enough to worry about?
 

Cahunter805

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It’s never been a problem for me. Once you add a base/rings/scope and bipod you will be definitely over 10lbs probably closer to 11lbs. It’s all personal preference and if you want a #5 then go for it.
My last 2 rifles are just under 10lbs with optics and bipod and fit my hunting style and shooting perfect.
What acope are you going to be running?
 
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Brandon_SPC

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It’s never been a problem for me. Once you add a base/rings/scope and bipod you will be definitely over 10lbs probably closer to 11lbs. It’s all personal preference and if you want a #5 then go for it.
My last 2 rifles are just under 10lbs with optics and bipod and fit my hunting style and shooting perfect.
What acope are you going to be running?
Right now the only one I have laying around Vortex PST 4-16 but will eventually be upgraded to a nightforce SHV 5-20X56 or something along the lines of that. So an extra 6 ounces will be added when I upgrade the scope.
 

tdhanses

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If you go with a carbonsix barrel you’ll drop weight and it includes chamber/thread which makes it comparable to a steel barrel. They have a 10% off sale till Sunday, think the code is fall19. They use McGowan barrels for their barrels. I just wish they would thread for an LPA action but the barrel they did for my Howa was done very well and impressed my gunsmith who worked for GAP for about 10 years before starting his own shop.
 
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wind gypsy

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Barrel is the last place I'd look to drop weight. A Douglas #5 (same/similar to bartlein 3b) is listed as 4lb if 26" & 0.7" at the muzzle. You limit your muzzle threading options by going smaller in diameter at muzzle. I have a hard time seeing you dropping 0.8 lb on fluting, and any fluting that aggressive I'd highly recommend avoiding. The two most disappointing barrels I've had featured aggressive spiral flutes.

I'd save your weight by not buying an adjustable stock. A stock pack or homemade cheek riser will save you weight and let you maintain a good cheek weld just the same.
 

desertcj

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Barrel is the last place I'd look to drop weight. A Douglas #5 (same/similar to bartlein 3b) is listed as 4lb if 26" & 0.7" at the muzzle. You limit your muzzle threading options by going smaller in diameter at muzzle. I have a hard time seeing you dropping 0.8 lb on fluting, and any fluting that aggressive I'd highly recommend avoiding. The two most disappointing barrels I've had featured aggressive spiral flutes.

I'd save your weight by not buying an adjustable stock. A stock pack or homemade cheek riser will save you weight and let you maintain a good cheek weld just the same.
Just curious, what are the details on those two barrels you were disappointed with?
 

Cahunter805

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Interested in the fluting comment also.
I personally tested a barrel before and after fluting and saw zero change in groups or velocity. Who/how it’s fluted might be a factor also. I do agree fluting is mostly esthetics but does save a little weight.
 

desertcj

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I've read that fluting a button rifled barrel can have more effect then fluting a cut rifled barrel.
 

wind gypsy

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Just curious, what are the details on those two barrels you were disappointed with?
Barrel #1: Custom 6.5 SAUM - Bartlein #3 contour built by Jon Beanland, I believe he had kampfeld flute it. Had diagonal stringing and general inconsistent accuracy issues, especially when heated up. Beanland was kind enough to chamber/cerakote/muzzle thread another barrel for me if i provided the barrel but said he wouldn't stand behind accuracy on it if fluted again. Bartlein also doesn't stand behind any barrels fluted by anyone but them.

Barrel #2: Seekins Havak 300 WM factory barrel. This rifle just didn't shoot well. When sent it for warranty there were a number of issues observed with the barrel and action. The work bill noted "barrel not concentric" which I cant say was or wasn't related.

The warranty replacement Havak doesn't shoot 215 bergers worth a crap either but is showing promise with 200.20x bergers.

Based on input from others and my limited experience, i wouldn't mess with anything but mild flutes on a heavier contoured barrel anymore. Either a using a smaller contour or paying a little extra for carbon is worth the piece of mind to me when weight is a concern. Some lighter contours that get thicker at muzzle (think barret fieldcraft threaded barrels) would be a nice option. I dont like using 1/2" threads on skinny barrels.
 

desertcj

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I don't know what to say about the factory barrel. I am a bit surprised about the Bartlein though! #3 is a fairly light contour to start with. How deep was the spiral fluting on it?
 

wind gypsy

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I don't know what to say about the factory barrel. I am a bit surprised about the Bartlein though! #3 is a fairly light contour to start with. How deep was the spiral fluting on it?
It isn't a heavy contour, but it's only 0.030" thinner than the OP is planning on using..





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Cahunter805

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The barrel I tested was a #3 Bartlein in 6.5SAUM also. Spiral fluted by Kampfeld. POI didn’t change at all either.
Bartlein makes a great barrel but as with anything a lemon can be produced sometimes.
Most manufacturers won’t stand behind a barrel fluted by someone else either.
 

WesternHntr

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I have three aggressively spiral fluted barrels including a 300 PRC with a varmint contour that's .700 at the muzzle and weighs 3.4lbs at 27".
I have seen zero issues with accuracy from any of them.
One was fluted by kampfeld and it shoots one hole groups.
Here's my 300 PRC, it weighs 9.5 lbs wearing the MK5 5-25x56.
IMG_20191016_192822670.jpg
 
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Broz

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I use to have fluting added after I purchased non-fluted blanks. I too had poor luck with this process and I would no longer advise it. I believe there is a better time to add flutes than last after lapping and any final heat treatment. I have owned many fluted barrels, I like the looks, but cringe when I run a patch down the bore and can feel exactly where the flutes start and stop. The stainless blanks under some carbon barrels are also aggressively contoured under the carbon wraps. I have seen some vary as much as 3 tenths in bore diameter. Driving a test plug through some of these barrels can be a real eye opener. I agree with wind gypsy, be cautious on agressive flutes and barrels are not a good place to take off great deals of weight. After all, what would we say is the single most important component to a great shooting rifle build?
 
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Brandon_SPC

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Sorry guys late reply the numbers for the barrel is what McGowen has for their weight calculator.
 

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WestexSBK

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flutes look great but that’s it. The weight savings are minimal. Matter of fact I think guys spend way too much time and money worrying about shaving ounces. A #5 or similar is about perfect for any hunting rifle.


And my Beanland built rifle with a brux barrel fluted by Kampfeld shoots alright.
6FF8802B-7956-49E6-85E7-B6A0D906C038.jpegEBAD1A15-7FB8-42C9-90EF-593CD7F92ECF.jpeg
 
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