Help with MOA and bullet drop

[SDHNTR]

Are these ballistic apps really that accurate? I know I would have to practice and double check everything but it sounds too easy.
The reason I’m doing all of this is my son and I are going Caribou hunting in 2025 in the Northern Brooks Range Alaska. I have read that some of the shots are up to 500 yds away. I know that is not a lot for you all but it is to me. We both got Tikka 300 WM (not necessarily needed but we are going to do more hunts in the future) and I just laid away a Nightforce NX8 2.5-20x50f1. I could have got a cheaper scope but I wanted something very durable. If I have a nice scope I might as well learn how to use it.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

For the most part, yes, they are accurate, but they are also only as accurate as the data that you input. Don’t use muzzle velocity off the box.

Also, I’m not trying to call your baby ugly, and please don’t take offense, but you may struggle with that particular scope. In my opinion, it’s not the best option for a beginner. The I box is really tight and parallax can be fussy. It’s not the most user-friendly scope in the world. The NX8 4–32 is much better in this regard, but an 8x erector has its limitations.

Try it, but don’t be afraid to move on if you find it challenging to work with. There are plenty of other good and durable options out there.

 

[eric1115]

Are these ballistic apps really that accurate? I know I would have to practice and double check everything but it sounds too easy.
The reason I’m doing all of this is my son and I are going Caribou hunting in 2025 in the Northern Brooks Range Alaska. I have read that some of the shots are up to 500 yds away. I know that is not a lot for you all but it is to me. We both got Tikka 300 WM (not necessarily needed but we are going to do more hunts in the future) and I just laid away a Nightforce NX8 2.5-20x50f1. I could have got a cheaper scope but I wanted something very durable. If I have a nice scope I might as well learn how to use it.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

I would suggest that your biggest challenge along the way to being able to take a 500-yard shot at a big game animal will not be in getting accurate predictions from a ballistic calculator, but rather it will be in learning to set up and shoot from field positions effectively. A good reliable scope like the nightforce you have selected (though there are others that would arguably be better suited to your needs) is a very important part of the equation, as is a reliable rifle like your Tikka. The part that's not so easy is the practice and repetition. That many rounds through your 300 win mag is going to bruise your wallet and your shoulder pretty badly.

You would be able to purchase a "rokslide special" (Tikka .223 and SWFA fixed 6 power scope) along with a big pile of 223 ammo and come out pretty close to even money compared to purchasing that much ammo for your Magnum. You would also almost certainly get better training value and build better habits shooting several hundred rounds of 223 versus several hundred rounds of 300 wm.

 

[Rich M]

You have plenty of time to figure out your gun and scope - should be a great trip. I always go on my trips with the attitude that I'm gonna get 1 good shot and need to be able to make it count.

500 yards is a long ways, you are right. Some practice every 3-4 weeks over the next 2 yrs and you got this + some.

I shoot a model 70 3006 that is a mule - a folded beach towel on my shoulder makes a world of difference.

 

[Encore4me]

I’m not completely new to rifles. I have a Savage 308 that I have taken many deer with out to 250 yds. I have a 270 wsm. and use to have another 300wm. The 300 Tikka actually has less recoil then my 45-70, 3 1/2” goose/ turkey loads and 12 ga. slugs. I’m just not use to adjusting the turrets for different yardage. I squirrel hunt exclusively with a .22 and scope so different field positions is understood and I have done this for over 45 years. I’m not saying it’s not going to be different just not new.
We went with the 300 because we are planning another trip to Alaska for moose, neither of these species require a 300 but we will be unguided in bear country, just a little reassurance.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[hereinaz]

I’m not completely new to rifles. I have a Savage 308 that I have taken many deer with out to 250 yds. I have a 270 wsm. and use to have another 300wm. The 300 Tikka actually has less recoil then my 45-70, 3 1/2” goose/ turkey loads and 12 ga. slugs. I’m just not use to adjusting the turrets for different yardage. I squirrel hunt exclusively with a .22 and scope so different field positions is understood and I have done this for over 45 years. I’m not saying it’s not going to be different just not new.
We went with the 300 because we are planning another trip to Alaska for moose, neither of these species require a 300 but we will be unguided in bear country, just a little reassurance.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

IMO, it’s not your toughness in question regarding recoil, as much as being able to build a field shooting position and manage recoil to make the long range shot and spot your shot.

That said, the rifle and scope can do 500 with ease. A ballistic calculator and rangefinder will get you the elevation data you need. Wind is a factor you have to practice. Get out and shoot and you’ll be competent if you keep coming back here to learn a little more.

I did the caribou hunt this year, was amazing experience. This was a bad year for migration/movement, we saw single digit caribou and killed the ones we saw for meat.

My buddy shot at 350ish and I set up at about the same and they walked inside 100 yards for me.