More tuning woes

[Will_m]

I’ve been fighting my v3x for a tune and trying to stay within 13/16 centershot +/- 1/16.

Finally gave up on that and have my broadheads, field points and bare shafts all hitting together but I’m still getting some tail right on my bare shafts. That’s probably me though. And I damn sure don’t want to move my rest farther left.

Kind of concerned because I’m at 15/16” center shot and maybe closer to a full inch. Sure seems mighty screwy but to have my 3 blade non vented vpas grouping with field points out to 40 makes me think that’s just what this one tunes at. Didn’t shoot any farther because I couldn’t believe they finally came together.

Anybody else had something wonky like this?

Somebody make me feel better.

 

[wnelson14]

What about top hats?

 

[Billy Goat]

Did you change the top hats out or just swap them?


I know of guys who tuned bows there, but only because they didn't change out their top hats.


I don't worry too much about direction of a bareshaft, just the impact. The direction can have a lot of influence from the shooter.
If you have stuff together, that's the biggest part, but I'd bet you could get it to tune within centershot with different top hats, or you have a spine issue.

 

[Dschwan]

I had to swap top hats on the upper cam. I moved the thicker one to the riser side of the cam

 

[Will_m]

Good chance I’m overspined. 28” Axis 260 with 150 grains up front. Vx3 with a 27.5” draw. I was getting broadhead left which I understood to mean move the cam right. But it looks like my top hats already have the thin spacer on the right, so I can’t swap them to move it right and I'm not sure how much thinner they go but full disclosure I havent I ordered a kit.

 

[Will_m]

I had to swap top hats on the upper cam. I moved the thicker one to the riser side of the cam

Were you getting a left broadhead/bareshaft/right tear before? I thought moving the cam away from the riser would push left impact/right tear further?

 

[Dschwan]

I honestly dont remember. I was doing a quick verify to see if my set up was close. I then just boadhead tune and call it good. I don't spend a lot of time with paper. V3X 29 75# 27" draw, Black Eagle rampage 300 spine, 27.5" carbon to carbon, 175 up front

 

[Will_m]

actually it looks like my bottom cam has the thicker one on the left for some reason. Guess I’ll swap and see if it brings me in closer to centershot.

 

[Billy Goat]

You aren't overspined.


You probably need a different set of top hats, likely you don't have the thinnest set.

 

[Mighty Mouse]

As mentioned above, try adjusting top hats if you want to get it tuned at 13/16". This close to hunting season, I would just leave it as is if broadheads are hitting with field points out to your max shot distance.

 

[Will_m]

As mentioned above, try adjusting top hats if you want to get it tuned at 13/16". This close to hunting season, I would just leave it as is if broadheads are hitting with field points out to your max shot distance.

Thinking of this.

is there a downside to tuning out of center shot or is that just a reference point? I guess some part of me feels like this a bandaid and leaving performance on the table.

 

[Will_m]

You aren't overspined.


You probably need a different set of top hats, likely you don't have the thinnest set.

Yeah, I’m going to order a set and hopefully forget about it rather than continue tinkering. I know at a minimum I can move my bottom cam just by swapping.

 

[Billy Goat]

To clarify, yes, technically you would be overspined, but it's about impossible to get a centershot bow overspined to where it effects anything.

My concern is with your shafts as stiff as they are, your centershot as far out as it is, will you have enough windage adjustment?

Have you done a walk back? It might be your shafts are coming out and correcting quickly and will fall in line, or you might be sending them further out at greater distance, which I suspect is happening.

As long as a walk back isn't showing your windage changing you should be ok, not ideal, but fine to leave it.

 

[Will_m]

To clarify, yes, technically you would be overspined, but it's about impossible to get a centershot bow overspined to where it effects anything.

My concern is with your shafts as stiff as they are, your centershot as far out as it is, will you have enough windage adjustment?

Have you done a walk back? It might be your shafts are coming out and correcting quickly and will fall in line, or you might be sending them further out at greater distance, which I suspect is happening.

As long as a walk back isn't showing your windage changing you should be ok, not ideal, but fine to leave it.

Not beyond 40 but I’m going to check that out tomorrow. I’ve got enough windage now but it definitely looks peculiar with everything so far left.

Big time appreciate the help. I never knew RS was good for anything other than trolling psemach1evolve and making memes.

 

[Billy Goat]

Not beyond 40 but I’m going to check that out tomorrow. I’ve got enough windage now but it definitely looks peculiar with everything so far left.

Big time appreciate the help. I never knew RS was good for anything other than trolling psemach1evolve and making memes.

Some of us are multi talented.

 

[PathFinder]

Don't be afraid to move that bottom cam, it's really quick and easy. Once you've done it a time or two it will be your favorite way to make major adjustments.
That bow will tune to proper center shot, and it will be better when it does.

Sent from my Pixel 6 using Tapatalk

 

[Mighty Mouse]

Thinking of this.

is there a downside to tuning out of center shot or is that just a reference point? I guess some part of me feels like this a bandaid and leaving performance on the table.

You're not leaving any performance as in speed on the table. A purist would say keep centershot within manufacturer's spec (13/16" ± 1/16" on your bow) and tune as needed by laterally adjusting the cams. If you have a press at home and time to tinker, go for it now. If you're dependent on a shop and short on time, hunt with it as is (assuming broadheads are hitting with field points out to your max effective range) and tinker in the off season. You're only 1/16" out of spec on centershot.

 

[Ian Ketterman]

Good chance I’m overspined. 28” Axis 260 with 150 grains up front. Vx3 with a 27.5” draw. I was getting broadhead left which I understood to mean move the cam right. But it looks like my top hats already have the thin spacer on the right, so I can’t swap them to move it right and I'm not sure how much thinner they go but full disclosure I havent I ordered a kit.

That seems way over spined. I am 28'' and I am shooting 27'' 340's with 180 up front that are tuned perfectly.

 

[MallardSX2]

I literally just went through the same issue on my triax.

You need to get that cam AWAY from your riser.

Take a look at your top hats. Make sure the thicker one is on the left side of your cam (Top and bottom) looking at the bow like you're going to shoot it......

If the thick ones are not on the left, move them to the left, if they already are on the left take your bow to the shop and have them swap out for a different set of top hats (they are sold in a set) to move your cams AWAY from your riser.

Always keep your arrow at centershot 13/16 and switch your top hats. This gives you maximum velocity.

My fixed blade broadheads are flying like laser beams right now. I fought them for 2 years not knowing anything about these magical ridiculous tophats....Terrible design IMHO but it is what it is.

 

[Will_m]

I literally just went through the same issue on my triax.

You need to get that cam AWAY from your riser.

Take a look at your top hats. Make sure the thicker one is on the left side of your cam (Top and bottom) looking at the bow like you're going to shoot it......

If the thick ones are not on the left, move them to the left, if they already are on the left take your bow to the shop and have them swap out for a different set of top hats (they are sold in a set) to move your cams AWAY from your riser.

Always keep your arrow at centershot 13/16 and switch your top hats. This gives you maximum velocity.

My fixed blade broadheads are flying like laser beams right now. I fought them for 2 years not knowing anything about these magical ridiculous tophats....Terrible design IMHO but it is what it is.

Wouldn’t putting the thicker top hat on the left push the cam right towards the riser on a right hand bow?