over powder wad in in-line with no excuses bullet

[Kaare]

I am using a cva wolf with no excuses 420 grain bullet. Want to try using over the powder wads. I am wondering if dry or lubed wads are best for accuracy? Does the lube affect the powder if left in contact over say a week or 10 days in the backcountry?

 

[ElDiablito]

Which powder?

You’ll just have to try lubed and unlubed to see. If you’re worried about powder contamination, use a dry wool wad, poly or veggie wad.

Wads are a great idea. Another thing to look at is weighing and sorting your bullets. The NEs in my experience vary a lot - by as much as 6-9 gr. How much does this matter? Depends on how far you’re shooting.

 

[Dented]

Have you tried an MMP sub base? @sabotloader turned me on to them. They work great.

 

[ElDiablito]

Have you tried an MMP sub base? @sabotloader turned me on to them. They work great.

Another good choice. Or the base cut off a sabot (much cheaper).

 

[Kaare]

using 777 ffg. Only planning on 100-125 yds--just trying to get the gas seal that seemed to produce good results with the powerbelt, but in OR powerbelts are illegal

Do the dry wads still produce a gas seal?

 

[MThuntr]

Do the dry wads still produce a gas seal?

Yes in theory if it goes down fairly snug then it should act as a seal. I've used them with Lee R.E.A.L bullets. In MT you must you plain lead bullets (no sabots) in weapon restricted areas so I used that to help prevent cutting of the soft lead bullet. Not sure it worked since I think I had bad lead fouling using that bullet so I stopped using that load.

If you can use a base of a sabot or those subbases those will likely act better than a dry nitro card.

 

[Dented]

The MMP sub base does exactly that, provides a great seal. And if I recall correctly, they are Montana legal. Check with the regulations in your area.

 

[tkhuntsman]

I am using a cva wolf with no excuses 420 grain bullet. Want to try using over the powder wads. I am wondering if dry or lubed wads are best for accuracy? Does the lube affect the powder if left in contact over say a week or 10 days in the backcountry?

I use the ox yoke lubed with wonder lube and they work great I do it in 54 and 50 cal hawken rifles. Defiantly improves my groups and gives me much more consistent accuracy over not using them. I have found that the lubed wads improve the gas seal perfectly and the un-lubed is basically the same as shooting without a wad. Not much blow by but instead of 4" groups I get 2" with open sighted side lock muzzleloaders.

 

[tkhuntsman]

I am using a cva wolf with no excuses 420 grain bullet. Want to try using over the powder wads. I am wondering if dry or lubed wads are best for accuracy? Does the lube affect the powder if left in contact over say a week or 10 days in the backcountry?

It will definitely effect the powder over time. I usually either fire mine and swab with a dry patch or I pull them and swab at the 2 day mark. Also I will say the warmer it is the more that lube greases it stays more solid in colder temps and doesn't get as greasy.

 

[Kaare]

ok, thanks for all the great information. Now for a random brainstorm in regards to the concept of the lubed wad affecting powder on a prolonged hunt where you may not fire the gun for a week or 10 days. What if you used some cardstock over the powder (to protect the powder from the lube) and still used a lubed wad over that and under the bullet to make the gas seal?

 

[tkhuntsman]

In my opinion at best it's only going to buy you an extra day or so in warmer weather. I usually pack a 3 piece cleaning rod and a bullet removal jag and just leave it with my camp kit it's not that much extra weight and it's a rock solid way to eliminate variables. Muzzleloading is inherently rife with problems and variables and honestly if I have to pack a little extra weight to stack the deck in my favor then it's worth it. There's really no short cuts or easy outs in this game we owe it to ourselves and the animals to control what we can.

 

[Rich M]

It is easy to remove the breech plug on a Wolf and push the load thru - run a couple dry patches and reload every 3rd morning w fresh powder & bullet.

Not worth the uncertainty on a big hunt not to reload.

 

[MallardSX2]

^^^x2

But, I reload my muzzleloader daily. I salvage the powder and bullets. Those go into a bag that is used for checking 0 next season.

 

[ElDiablito]

ok, thanks for all the great information. Now for a random brainstorm in regards to the concept of the lubed wad affecting powder on a prolonged hunt where you may not fire the gun for a week or 10 days. What if you used some cardstock over the powder (to protect the powder from the lube) and still used a lubed wad over that and under the bullet to make the gas seal?

I honestly don’t think a lubed wad adds much value to your load. The lube really just helps with keeping the fouling softer on sequential shots. Maybe it’s a little more moisture resistant than a dry wool wad but you ought to be taping your muzzle anyway so I have little concern about water getting to my powder via the muzzle.

Yes, you could easily add a veggie wad (see pic below), ploy wad or dry wool below the lubed wool wad if you wanted to. I used to use lubed wool wads quite a bit and never had any issues with the lube contaminating the powder. Depends on the lube I suppose. Just use a poly (plastic) wad if you’re worried about it.



As for leaving the rifle loaded. I have 16 muzzy rifles of all kinds and have hunted exclusively with a muzzleloader for everything for the past 35 years - sheep, goats, deer, elk, caribou, African game, you name it. I foul the barrel, load with BH209 (or 777), tape the muzzle and leave it loaded all season. I’ve done this for years and never had a miss fire or hang fire in an inline rifle. Zero need IMO to shoot out the load or reload unless you’re hunting in the rain and think the powder got some moisture somehow (usually via the breech).

 

[Carr5vols]

I honestly don’t think a lubed wad adds much value to your load. The lube really just helps with keeping the fouling softer on sequential shots. Maybe it’s a little more moisture resistant than a dry wool wad but you ought to be taping your muzzle anyway so I have little concern about water getting to my powder via the muzzle.

Yes, you could easily add a veggie wad (see pic below), ploy wad or dry wool below the lubed wool wad if you wanted to. I used to use lubed wool wads quite a bit and never had any issues with the lube contaminating the powder. Depends on the lube I suppose. Just use a poly (plastic) wad if you’re worried about it.

View attachment 580414

As for leaving the rifle loaded. I have 16 muzzy rifles of all kinds and have hunted exclusively with a muzzleloader for everything for the past 35 years - sheep, goats, deer, elk, caribou, African game, you name it. I foul the barrel, load with BH209 (or 777), tape the muzzle and leave it loaded all season. I’ve done this for years and never had a miss fire or hang fire in an inline rifle. Zero need IMO to shoot out the load or reload unless you’re hunting in the rain and think the powder got some moisture somehow (usually via the breech).

What is your process for fouling the barrel?

 

[ElDiablito]

What is your process for fouling the barrel?

A couple primers and then one shot, usually.