Paper tune

[Delta21]

Learning to work on and set up my bow. I still have a hard time reading paper tears. What y’all think? Gold tip xcutters 4 fletched.

 

[Mighty Mouse]

I'd call it good and move on to bareshaft tuning.

 

[dlee56]

That's about as good as you'll get

 

[Delta21]

Thanks fellas, one reason I ask is I bought a used bow with d loop already on. Slapped a new rest on and set on center shot. 2 shots above. Just shocked it was that easy. I got a hunting bow that took a lot longer

 

[trailblazer75]

I do bareshaft through paper personally. I wanna see what the arrow is doing right off the rest, about 2-3 yards of clearing the rest. I'll tune that in bare and then from there its just broadhead tuning. I can be pretty well tuned in about an hour with nock height, cam timing, centershot and a bareshaft through paper followed by shooting my broadheads.

 

[4rcgoat]

I do bareshaft through paper personally. I wanna see what the arrow is doing right off the rest, about 2-3 yards of clearing the rest. I'll tune that in bare and then from there its just broadhead tuning. I can be pretty well tuned in about an hour with nock height, cam timing, centershot and a bareshaft through paper followed by shooting my broadheads.

^^^this.....

 

[5MilesBack]

It looks a little nock high, but you'll quickly see what it's doing with bare shafts vs fletched at 20 yards.

 

[xcutter]

I'd say you are doing good. Here's a trick I like to do to help with identifying what the arrow is doing through paper. I apply lipstick to the vane edges and point of the arrow. When it goes through the paper it makes it a lot easier to tell what the arrow is doing and how to make corrections.

 

[sndmn11]

I do bareshaft through paper personally. I wanna see what the arrow is doing right off the rest, about 2-3 yards of clearing the rest. I'll tune that in bare and then from there its just broadhead tuning. I can be pretty well tuned in about an hour with nock height, cam timing, centershot and a bareshaft through paper followed by shooting my broadheads.

Do you find you need to adjust when you move to broadheads?

My method is get fletched clean through paper, and then I shoot bar shafts with fletched out to 60, adjusting to bring the groups together.

Sometimes after that it gets me a clean bare shafts tear, other times there's a little angle.

When getting bare shafts with fletched out to 30 yards, I haven't had to make any adjustments when broadheads are added.

 

[nphunter]

One thing to consider when shooting bare shafts through paper or even with fletched is to shoot multiple shots before making any adjustments. It is so easy to manipulate a bare shaft with a form error, slight face contact, poor release, etc. that you need to look at how your average bare shaft is flying.

I normally just shoot a bare and a fletched and don't worry about shooting through paper, If my bare shaft is flying and hitting with fletched at 20 I'm happy and go to broadheads and seldom need to change anything. Again it's important to shoot multiple and have a consistent result, if you are smacking bare shafts and fletched against each other and the angle is correct there is no reason to go shoot at further ranges.

Another thing to consider is the medium you are shooting into, for consistent results you should be shooting into good foam, something like a Reinhart block or even a good 3D target, with bag targets you will not get consistent results.

These are the results I expect when bare shaft tuning and it equates to a good end result for me.

 

[trailblazer75]

Do you find you need to adjust when you move to broadheads?

My method is get fletched clean through paper, and then I shoot bar shafts with fletched out to 60, adjusting to bring the groups together.

Sometimes after that it gets me a clean bare shafts tear, other times there's a little angle.

When getting bare shafts with fletched out to 30 yards, I haven't had to make any adjustments when broadheads are added.

Typically not, provided spine is correct. Usually I’m within a half inch and can do a tiny rest move to get it perfect.

This is a broadhead and two field points after one rest adjustment at 30 yards.

 

[MattB]

I'd say you are doing good. Here's a trick I like to do to help with identifying what the arrow is doing through paper. I apply lipstick to the vane edges and point of the arrow. When it goes through the paper it makes it a lot easier to tell what the arrow is doing and how to make corrections.

Based on looking at lots of tears in pics like this one over the years, I think your idea is a really good one. Just too many that showed tears that were sub-optimal but that the posters and other forum members thought were just fine.

 

[artripb13]

I like to paper tune with bareshafts at a little longer range (I can get to about 8 yards in my basement) to really exagerate any issues with the bow or form before moving to broadhead tuning. I don't have the best target for broadheads so I waste a lot of time getting broadheads out of targets and I find its a little more precise for me than comparing fletched vs bareshaft groups. Usually only need to make one small adjustment if any with broadheads this way

 

[Beendare]

I just get it close with a paper tune as its only 1/2 way there anyway....then I shoot BH's for groups at long range.

Sometimes its frustrating with a paper tune as it could be a little over and then rest adjustments when BH tuning is the opposite of what's recommended.

if its paper or bare shaft tuned...I typically have never had to move my rest more than 1/16"...but its sometimes the opposite of what the tuning guides say due to that paper tune.

 

[BigCountry49]

Get close on paper, get close on bare shaft, then shoot the ugliest fixed blade broadhead you have at half your farthest range and adjust rest no more than ~1/16th. You can also play with fletching, spine and tip weight to feel what shoots best before making the final adjustment. If my 1.25” three blades group to my field points @50 I call it good (shoot multiple groups). Note that fixed broadheads have more drag than field points and will cause low hits at longer distances.

 

[jpiniewski]

Paper tuning is a great starting point. I paper tune then do a walk back.

--JP