Rokslide Build Donor Rifle

[TypicalHaas]

Hi all, I’ve read the intro guides and searched for an answer to this in existing threads but haven’t found a clear answer. Hopefully this is in the right spot…

After reading as much as I can the past few weeks, I’ve been inspired by all of the great discussion to build my perfect field rifle.

My plan is a 7-8lb 6.5CM Tikka with an 18-20”threaded barrel in one of the new ROK stocks that Stocky’s is building with input from a bunch of folks on here. Glass would be either the SWFA 3-15x or Trijicon tenmile 3-18x in Sportsmatch rings.

What would be the best rifle to start this build keeping weight in mind? I’ve seen that the CTR and Veil have thicker barrels which would push the weight up, but the lites and superlites require some tapering or adapters to get a 5/8x32 thread pitch.

I appreciate any advice or other input y’all might have!

 

[PantherCity]

You won’t get to 7-8lbs with a CTR barrel.
Get a stainless t3x lite chop and thread the barrel and use an adapter. Burn out the barrel as fast as you can practicing and then replace with whatever contour you want.

Also take a look at the Unknown Munitions tikka rings instead of the sportsmatch. Same design concept but with better materials and execution.


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[hereinaz]

There is no clear answer, or you would have found it already... Its all opinion on the subjective merits in the options you are considering. Some opinions are better than others though. You will be splitting hairs on the ounces and merits you already deduced. There really isn't a wrong answer, you can get to a sweet shooting rifle either way. Hopefully someone or enough people convince you based on what you think is important and you aren't left wondering.

So, decide what you really want, and then don't compromise for a few hundred bucks.

IMO, for what its worth, once you cut a barrel to 18 inches, the weight savings is neglible. And, if it proves too much, pay to have it fluted later. A good smith can solve the "tapering" problem if cutting it to 18" doesn't work for you, but that can add cost that is the same or more than fluting, so that's why I would start with a heavier barrel.

 

[Marbles]

LRI Pattern X fluting will give you an exceptionally light barrel for the contour. It will als cost you about $400 for fluting alone.

I'm got a T3x Lite, will have LRI cut it to 16.5 and threat to 1/2 28. I'm getting a AB Raptor 8 and will buy the 1/2 28 flush mount to avoid an adapter.

I'm not going to have them flute it, but spiral flutes with a A cutter would drop about 4 ounces and be cheaper than the Pattern X fluting by quite a bit.

 

[thinhorn_AK]

Get a t3x lite in 6.5, send it in to kampfield or Shaen etc. have the barrel cut to 18”, have them install a permanent collar so you can direct thread 5/8x24.

Drop it into your rokslide stock, put your sportsmatch and scope on it and have fun.

 

[sdupontjr]

You won’t get to 7-8lbs with a CTR barrel.
Get a stainless t3x lite chop and thread the barrel and use an adapter. Burn out the barrel as fast as you can practicing and then replace with whatever contour you want.

Also take a look at the Unknown Munitions tikka rings instead of the sportsmatch. Same design concept but with better materials and execution.


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I just did a thread where i weighed both my 20" CTR 308 vs my T3 lite 308. Given just the barrel and action, no bolt, no stock, bottom metal, mags, screws, etc, it came out to be .78 lbs difference even with a slightly shorter barrel.

 

[NSI]

I just did a thread where i weighed both my 20" CTR 308 vs my T3 lite 308. Given just the barrel and action, no bolt, no stock, bottom metal, mags, screws, etc, it came out to be .78 lbs difference even with a slightly shorter barrel.

Typical fluting weight removal is around 10-12oz on a 20" barrel so that gets you closer for around $140.

-J