Scope base coming loose?

[dmossu]

What type of loctite does everyone recommend for a scope base? I torqued it to Seekins specs and I has come loose twice on my .300 WM. I thought I read online that Seekins said not to use Loctite, so I did not. The first time I blamed it on the lead sled, but now it apparently needs loctite or something. Has anyone encountered this?

 

[Pickettpuncher]

If you’re still using the lead sled, that’s your problem. I’m not a fan of lead sleds, but that’s another discussion, and I’m not a fan of locktite either. If you’re using a rail, I’d bed the rail and torque to their specs.

 

[dmossu]

If you’re still using the lead sled, that’s your problem. I’m not a fan of lead sleds, but that’s another discussion, and I’m not a fan of locktite either. If you’re using a rail, I’d bed the rail and torque to their specs.

Not using the lead sled anymore because I thought it was the problem. I did bed the rail and torqued to specs and it still came loose. Maybe an issue with the Seekins rail or something odd?

 

[Pickettpuncher]

Not using the lead sled anymore because I thought it was the problem. I did bed the rail and torqued to specs and it still came loose. Maybe an issue with the Seekins rail or something odd?

What’s the screw size and also torque

 

[TN2shot07]

I haven’t used that base set up but I like the blue lock tite that comes in stock form (chapstick)

 

[sndmn11]

Orange or red, and some JB weld to bed it.

 

[SDHNTR]

First of all degrease your screw threads and screw holes. Use gun scrubber or brake cleaner or rubbing alcohol. Any oil or grease on the threads can work em loose. Then use blue Loctitie. I like 243 over 242 as it is oil resistant, same strength. And set to torque specified by your manufacturer or screw size. I do 20 in lbs for 6-48 and 25 for 8-40.

 

[dmossu]

What’s the screw size and also torque

Torque was 20-25 per Seekins instructions and long action, so I believe number 8 screws

 

[dmossu]

Orange or red, and some JB weld to bed it.

I used JB Weld to bed it, but used a release agent so it would not stick to the gun incase down the road I wanted to switch it up, either way, it's bedded

 

[dmossu]

First of all degrease your screw threads and screw holes. Use gun scrubber or brake cleaner or rubbing alcohol. Any oil or grease on the threads can work em loose. Then use blue Loctitie. I like 243 over 242 as it is oil resistant, same strength. And set to torque specified by your manufacturer or screw size. I do 20 in lbs for 6-48 and 25 for 8-40.

Good idea on the degreasing, that could be the issue. Do you use the loctite on the scope mounts also?

 

[SDHNTR]

Good idea on the degreasing, that could be the issue. Do you use the loctite on the scope mounts also?

On the ring screws? I do, though most manufacturers will say not to. It's probably not necessary, but I call it cheap insurance. Just be careful and err on the side of 1-2 inch lbs less as the loctite can work as a thread lubricant and create over torque.

 

[WeiserBucks]

I used JB Weld to bed it, but used a release agent so it would not stick to the gun

I do the opposite, NO release agent, I want it as permanently attached as possible. If its a 20 MOA rail it'll work for 99% of anything you'd ever do with a 300 WM. I say to permanently epoxy it on there. Every rifle I own that doesn't have an integral rail has a permanently bedded rail. Since I've been doing it I've never had a rail come loose since.

 

[dmossu]

I just posted something in the optics thread, I realized that with the bedded rail it cost me 25 thousandth of threads, so now only 2 threads are going into the action.

Has anyone experienced this or know of where I can buy some longer 8-40's?

 

[BjornF16]

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MidwayUSA, Brownells, Graf's would be good sources...I'm sure there are more