Tall Guy Interested in Trad

[Cng]

Hi all, I’ve gotten interested in trying traditional archery and done some reading, but I’ve read myself around in circles and can’t really decide what direction to go. Hoping to get some advice.

First off, like a recent poster, I’m a tall guy with a long draw. I’m 6’5” and currently shoot an Elite with a 31.5” draw. (My local shop says I need a 32” draw, but until some recent Matthews bows, I’m not aware of anyone that makes a 32” draw, and the 31.5” feels fine to me.)

I understand that means I’ll need a longer bow. I’ve been looking at recurves but don’t want to spend all that much in case I decide this isn’t for me. I almost pulled the trigger on a vintage 64” Bear, but decided to do some more research. I then decided that ILF was the way to go because I could upgrade down the line, but, wow!, those things are pricey! And so many options that my head started to spin.

So, what’s your best recommendation for a tall guy wanting to dip his toe into traditional? Vintage or new? Riser height? Limb length? What do I realistically need to spend to get my foot in the door and have a decent setup?

Thanks for your help!

 

[GregB]

Definitely start off with a light weight like 40-45lbs. ILF is a good option since you can increase poundage. Really any inexpensive bow will do, starting out you are just trying to learn form and be consistent. Once you have done that you can upgrade the weight and bow. And if you decide you don't like it you haven't invested a ton of money. As far as riser and AMO each manufacturer should have a recommended max draw length for that specific bow. You would probably need a 64" bow, you might be able to get away with a 62" depending on the manufacturer. RMS Gear has a lot of used recurves on their website and are really good about answering questions about them.
EDIT: At your draw length 35-40 pounds would probably be a better choice.

 

[LostArra]

Agree with the 64" but an ILF system would not qualify for "dipping your toe" into traditional archery.

A Galaxy Luna (64") takedown from Lancaster Archery would be under $300 and get you started. It's similar to the Sage but longer.

 

[manitou1]

I have a 33" draw with trad bows. I used to shoot a lot, and compete. I would shoot 12-13000 arrows a year. On average, a trad bow will gain about 2.5 lbs per inch over their rated weight at the standard, which is 28" draw. Keep that in mind when choosing.
Not all longer limbed bows will accomodate a longer draw and can stack badly. You should really try drawing the bow before you buy. Keep in mind that you will shoot better and avoid costly form problems with a lighter draw weight. I have a friend who has killed bear, elk, dozens of hogs, lots of whitetails and buffalo with a 41 lb. bow. I used to shoot 43 lbs and the arrows zipped right through animals. My shoulder paid the price for all the shooting, so not much shooting any more.
If you can find a Pittsley Predator, they are fine shooting bows for longer draws. I have a cheap Samick bow, 64" that draws to my length that I bought for bowfishing.
I had several Black Widows custom made for me and shot their 62" take down very comfortably... but they are pricey.
Try as many as you can, or get a Samick (Journey, I believe) at about 32 lbs @ 28" and have fun!

 

[sneaky]

All great advice given above, but on the compound side PSE has been making 32" DL bows for a looooong time. I shoot a 31.5" draw on my compound and about 31" on my trad setup. Don't over bow yourself, start light, develop good form, and enjoy it. It's much more fun than shooting a compound. FWIW I shoot 64" bows, the one I use the most now is a Stalker Coyote with XL limbs to make it 64" on a 15" handle. Probably the smoothest drawing recurve I've ever owned. South's bows don't build poundage at the 2.5# rate per inch, more like 1.25-1.5# per inch.

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[willfrye027]

I’ve been shooting a Samick sage for a few years and killed some deer with it last year. It’s a great option if it will work for your DL (not sure if it’s the same one manitou1 is talking about). It shoots a little better for me compared to some vintage bows if had, and you can use “better” string material like fast flight. You can start out with low poundage limbs and eventually get hunting weight limbs that won’t cost a ton. I’ve seen them for 40ish on AT classifieds. I started at 35lb at my DL and shoot 50lb now, wasnt bad working up to it after a few months. Definitely start low poundage as mentioned above. It’s a lot harder to shoot well with heavy bows, takes a different set of muscles than compound.

 

[Cng]

Thanks for all of your replies! I’m seeing a Samick Sage on eBay for just under $100 and the Galaxy Luna mentioned is just under $300. Is the Luna a step up? Worth the upgrade?

Also, based on what I’ve read, recurve is the way to go because I can build up to heavier limbs, right? There’s a 64” Bear Montana Longbow on my local Craigslist but I’ve stayed away from it because I’ve understood recurve is the way to go.

Edit: I meant the Samick JOURNEY above. Not the Sage. Sorry about that.

 

[jspradley]

The Sage is a 62" bow and might be a little short for sasqu... I mean dudes of your stature.

You can likely find an ILF setup in your price range to get a 64-66" bow that might fit you better

 

[Cng]

Yeah, sorry, I meant the Samick Journey on eBay.

I assume you mean I could find a used ILF setup in my price range? Do you recommend anywhere in particular to find one? I don’t see a lot of ILF risers come available.

If I go the ILF direction, what height riser should I look for? Does a Sasquatch like myself want a 19” riser, or should I go with something a little shorter with the understanding that I would be getting some XL limbs?

 

[LostArra]

Thanks for all of your replies! I’m seeing a Samick Sage on eBay for just under $100 and the Galaxy Luna mentioned is just under $300. Is the Luna a step up? Worth the upgrade?

Also, based on what I’ve read, recurve is the way to go because I can build up to heavier limbs, right? There’s a 64” Bear Montana Longbow on my local Craigslist but I’ve stayed away from it because I’ve understood recurve is the way to go.

I believe the Samick Sage is no longer made, at least by Samick. As mentioned by jspradley the Sage may be shorter than what you want. I doubt most of us could tell the difference in "quality" of the Sage or Luna but both would be more than adequate hunters. Bear Montana is decent and has gone thru some changes. Some like the grip, others don't or modify it themselves. The early models, while accurate were a little shocky to me.

I'm probably the minority but I vote against an ILF system to start. Learn to shoot with the fewest tuning variables involved. Folks who get bitten by the traditional bug rarely own just one bow.

 

[Btaylor]

The bow I got earlier this year is an ILF setup that was like $350. Ordered the riser from one place and limbs from a different place. There is a site that I got a link too that has a crap ton of recurve limbs for ILF and they run from really inexpensive to "are you serious" expensive. I opted to go for a longbow set up so choices were much more limited but you could easily setup a nice ILF recurve for $200-$250. I agree with the others about starting out with a bow around 40 pounds at your draw length. Not much reason to shoot more than 50 pounds for hunting other than want too and that is certainly fine.

 

[Cng]

but you could easily setup a nice ILF recurve for $200-$250.

Any tips on where I could go to put together a bow in that price range? All the links I’ve looked at seem to fall around that really expensive category you mentioned!

 

[sneaky]

Any tips on where I could go to put together a bow in that price range? All the links I’ve looked at seem to fall around that really expensive category you mentioned!

Be forewarned, starting with an ILF setup is adding a complex set of variables to something that you have no experience with. A 30, or 35lb recurve,non ILF, would be a much better starting point. You are jumping in to the deep end by going straight to ILF. Your biggest decision at this point should be starting poundage and whether you want to shoot split finger or 3 under. Setting limb tiller, limb alignment, limb pad angles, etc can be saved for further down the road.

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[elkstabber]

I've been shooting and hunting with a recurve for the last 20 years or so and have shot dozens of bows. I really think that the right bow is about like finding the right woman. It's all personal preference. It doesn't matter much if it's vintage or if it's an expensive ILF bow. They will all shoot fairly close to the same. Your personal shooting form will have a lot more to do with your arrow flight than the bow.

I would suggest that you look at your first bow as an investment. Look for a bow that you can resell easily. Think catch and release. You didn't marry the first girl you dated did you? Since you're just starting now is a good time to be a bow whore.

And don't buy too many arrows either. Lancaster Archery Supply sells most of their arrows as singles. So you could just buy 2 or 3 if you wanted. The last thing you want to do is buy a full dozen and then find out that they won't tune right coming out of your bow.

You'll have to shoot a good bit to determine your true draw length, arrow length, and to really tune the arrow to your bow. While you're still learning the form I'd suggest that you get arrows with larger than normal fletchings because you'll want the extra stabilization.

As others have mentioned above now you should be more concerned with whether you'll shoot split finger or three under and what "aiming" style you choose (instinctive, gapping, or others).

 

[GregB]

Any tips on where I could go to put together a bow in that price range? All the links I’ve looked at seem to fall around that really expensive category you mentioned!

Check out 3 Rivers Archery, Lancaster Archery and RMS Gear.

 

[sndmn11]

I would call one of the Clums at Rocky Mountain Specialty Gear and chat with them https://rmsgear.com/ (303) 421-2259 They were living Traditional archery before most people knew the difference between a recurve and a long bow.

I would at least start off shooting with a clicker. The biggest hindrance to accuracy comes from an inconsistent anchor and coming from a compound, this will be a great way to develop the feel for where that anchor is. Most bows will get you similar performance, and at your draw length you will be shooting similar speeds to most short draw compounds guys. So, I would find a bow in your specs at a price you like and roll with it until you learn what you value and then spend some money if you feel the need.

 

[GregB]

I would say get a cheap bow that will fit your draw length, and spend the rest of the money on a good coach. The 2 things I should have done different when I started traditional is went lighter on the bow and have someone to coach me. This probably would have saved a couple months of struggling.

 

[Btaylor]

Any tips on where I could go to put together a bow in that price range? All the links I’ve looked at seem to fall around that really expensive category you mentioned!

Product Not Found | Archery Shop | Alternative Services

Welcome to the Alternative Services Archery Shop. The product you are trying to find isn't on this page. Maybe try searching for it again using different words.

www.alternativess.com

You can shop recurve limbs at that site.

I got a riser from lancaster archery. My limbs came from 3 Rivers but again I went LB route rather than recurve.

The guys above make a good point about ILF adding some setup and tuning to the equation. If you have a good bow shop close by that might not be a problem. Otherwise the safer starting point might be a standard recurve.

 

[jspradley]

Good points on the variables of an ILF setup being a bit overwhelming. I was thinking about them from a standpoint of options for longer bows vs most non ILF huntin style rigs.

I have no experience with this particular riser but something along those lines, along with a set of Tradtech limbs (around $150) would put you in a reasonable price range and give you plenty of options to try different lengths and weights.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Samick-Dis...1a06:m:mpAxzgGlk-lGGG1Wmxwb3-g&frcectupt=true


And definitly go for a coach, and Tom Clum's Solid Archery Mechanics, it's well worth the cost of admission!

 

[Cng]

Thanks for all of your replies. I was interested in an ILF setup, but the variables scared me off and I went with the “catch and release” advice.

I found a 66” vintage recurve on Craigslist for a good price. I don’t usually see them that long, and I thought maybe it would fit me a little better. It’s a Root by Shakespeare, so not an original Ernie Root but same basic design. It’s also 45#. A little heavier than recommended, but hopefully I can still make it work. Thanks again for your suggestions. I’ve got a string on order and look forward to tinkering with it.