Why is it near impossible to find Tikka bolts?

[Mike D Texas]

I apologize you believe I was nitpicking. But in my defense you did state "For a gun that claims to be so modular", then when questioned stated, "I didn’t infer that the manufacturer touted it as such."

I find that to be kinda confusing. Who did then?

I'd suggest either buy a donor rifle, or look at ja outdoors

You may not have intended it that way and I apologize for my response. That’s the issue with non verbal responses, it’s difficult to infer intention at times.

Again I apologize for my rude response.

I was seriously talking about reading posts about being able to run short or long action with just minor changes rather than having to buy a new action for example. I’m used to REM 700 patter rifles where the plethora of available parts, both factory and aftermarket is mind boggling. I’m just surprised that there isn’t more of the same support for a rifle that anyone with competent mechanical skills can change or customize to their liking.


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[Gorp2007]

The fine folks over at Unknown Munitions seem to have something in the works, but they haven’t released a timeframe yet. In the interim, I think swapping someone for a magnum would be the fastest, cheapest, and easiest solution.

https://rokslide.com/forums/threads/um-tikka-bottom-metal.339040/post-3401896

 

[Mike D Texas]

The fine folks over at Unknown Munitions seem to have something in the works, but they haven’t released a timeframe yet. In the interim, I think swapping someone for a magnum would be the fastest, cheapest, and easiest solution.

https://rokslide.com/forums/threads/um-tikka-bottom-metal.339040/post-3401896

I saw that thread and subscribed. Thanks for the reminder. A modular bolt would be awesome.

Again, not looking to get rid of, trade or otherwise my current 223 Tikka.


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[Buzby]

I saw that thread and subscribed. Thanks for the reminder. A modular bolt would be awesome.

Again, not looking to get rid of, trade or otherwise my current 223 Tikka.


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Sorry I’m confused. You want to keep the .223, but also have it converted to something else? There’s not much to keep, other than the action and stock. Sounds like a new rifle would be the best value.

 

[Gorp2007]

I saw that thread and subscribed. Thanks for the reminder. A modular bolt would be awesome.

Again, not looking to get rid of, trade or otherwise my current 223 Tikka.


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Missed the part where you didn’t want to get rid of or permanently convert the 223 bolt.

So when you say you want to convert it to a 6.5 SAUM, are you looking to use the same action and switch between cartridges?

 

[Axlrod]

Well I did that but saw JA as the only real option, and cost is ridiculous from them. MGW sells them as well but currently doesn’t have any magnums in stock.

The link you posted from Canada is helpful, just don’t know what challenges there are purchasing from Canada.


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JA buys whole rifles and parts them out, You could do the same. The price is what it is.
MGW has a notify when back in stock function.
PR Prec. you would need to contact them to find out the challenges for yourself.
You could post a WTB add on here and other forums you frequent.

So they are not impossible to find. If you really want one you can get one.
Tikka like most other companies makes the same number of bolts as actions and sells them together. The market for extra bolts is a very small one.

 

[pods8 (Rugged Stitching)]

You may not have intended it that way and I apologize for my response. That’s the issue with non verbal responses, it’s difficult to infer intention at times.

Again I apologize for my rude response.

I was seriously talking about reading posts about being able to run short or long action with just minor changes rather than having to buy a new action for example. I’m used to REM 700 patter rifles where the plethora of available parts, both factory and aftermarket is mind boggling. I’m just surprised that there isn’t more of the same support for a rifle that anyone with competent mechanical skills can change or customize to their liking.


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The Tikka T3/T3x aftermarket support was soso in the past but is really growing (in North America anyways) more-so in the last 5ish years and still growing, it doesn’t have the decades of support that rem700 & clone actions have. This was a “budget” sako that is now gaining legs that put the OEM in an uncomfortable position a bit imho as it’s popularity is probably exceeding the premium version.

It’s a useful platform in circumstances because it’s action length is always a minimal length long action. Which really favors short and medium length calibers with long bullets with minimal modifications. But among its commonly known shortfalls is knowing you need to source the right bolt face with your action (but you can swap bolts around, try that with a rem 700!).

 

[Mike D Texas]

Missed the part where you didn’t want to get rid of or permanently convert the 223 bolt.

So when you say you want to convert it to a 6.5 SAUM, are you looking to use the same action and switch between cartridges?

Yes. I have all the tools do my own barrel swaps as well as any other things needed.

Basically looking to have one action and stock, just change barrel, mags, bolt stop(if needed) and bolt. Everything but the bolt is readily available.


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[sndmn11]

Everything but the bolt is readily available.


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They are readily available in a few places with good reputations. What size are you looking for?

 

[Buzby]

Yes. I have all the tools do my own barrel swaps as well as any other things needed.

Basically looking to have one action and stock, just change barrel, mags, bolt stop(if needed) and bolt. Everything but the bolt is readily available.


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If you have your heart set on this, so be it.

You’d only short a bare action from having 2 complete working barreled actions. Swapping stocks is one thing, but swapping barrels often is not something these rifles were designed for.
A bolt is going to run 1/2 the cost of a complete new rifle. I just don’t think the juice is worth the squeeze to set yourself up like this.

 

[atmat]

If you have your heart set on this, so be it.

You’d only short a bare action from having 2 complete working barreled actions. Swapping stocks is one thing, but swapping barrels often is not something these rifles were designed for.
A bolt is going to run 1/2 the cost of a complete new rifle. I just don’t think the juice is worth the squeeze to set yourself up like this.

I agree on this. Stock and scope replacement is a 10-minute gig with basic tools.

Barrel swap out is a 30-minute gig with specialized tools.

 

[Buzby]

I agree on this. Stock and scope replacement is a 10-minute gig with basic tools.

Barrel swap out is a 30-minute gig with specialized tools.

And I have to believe the threads on the barrel and/or action will eventually wear or stretch or gall

 

[wyosam]

I agree on this. Stock and scope replacement is a 10-minute gig with basic tools.

Barrel swap out is a 30-minute gig with specialized tools.

Barrel swaps don’t take near that long. Closer to 10 minutes. I spend way more time on a scope swap.

That being said, all my Tikkas are .473 bolt face. If I was going to add a magnum or .223 bolt face, I’d buy another action (or rifle more likely, since that’s the cheapest way to do it). I would probably not bother selling off a bare action without a bolt- there isn’t much market. So now it’s a barreled action that I’d end up buying another stock, scope, rings, bottom metal etc for to match the others. And it’s another rifle in the safe, instead of another option on the barrel rack. If magnum bolts were cheaper, I’d probably be building a 338 SAUM instead of a 338-284. For the expense and my very limited interest in magnum bolt face cartridges, it’s just not worth it.

For people who like to shoot a bunch of cartridges for different purposes, or just because they like to experiment, Tikkas are a great platform to do it with (other than switching bolt faces is expensive).


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[atmat]

Barrel swaps don’t take near that long. Closer to 10 minutes. I spend way more time on a scope swap.

Taking off a Tikka barrel typically requires taking off a stock, having access to a barrel vise, usually wrapping something around your barrel to not scuff it having action wrenches and large torque wrenches. Then spinning on the new one and putting on the stock again. I’ve never seen someone crank it all out in 10-minutes — especially without the equipment out and ready.

Its specialized tools in the sense that it’s more than one small torque wrench required to remove the stock and scope.

If you’re using rings (even integrated rail rings like a lot of use for Tikkas), scopes are super easy to switch. You could even use a paint pen to mark your spot and end up very close to zero.

 

[wyosam]

Taking off a Tikka barrel typically requires taking off a stock, having access to a barrel vise, usually wrapping something around your barrel to not scuff it having action wrenches and large torque wrenches. Then spinning on the new one and putting on the stock again. I’ve never seen someone crank it all out in 10-minutes — especially without the equipment out and ready.

Its specialized tools in the sense that it’s more than one small torque wrench required to remove the stock and scope.

If you’re using rings (even integrated rail rings like a lot of use for Tikkas), scopes are super easy to switch. You could even use a paint pen to mark your spot and end up very close to zero.

I don’t pull the stock, or the optic. Barrel vice is mounted to my bench. Torque wrench hangs on the pegboard. Proper bushing and a piece of primer box around the barrel. How are you leveling that scope? Sounds like more “specialized equipment”, and probably not happening in 10 minutes- though you might get lucky if it’s already been on the rifle and it’s just clamping it back to the rail. I’m still setting up to check level though.

Once the factory barrel is broken loose, it’s a not crazy tight clamp in the vice and an internal action wrench. Quick and simple.


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[atmat]

I don’t pull the stock, or the optic. Barrel vice is mounted to my bench. Torque wrench hangs on the pegboard. Proper bushing and a piece of primer box around the barrel.

I’ve always pulled stock to change barrel. If you don’t, that saves time.

Even then, you have to be home to do it, or be traveling with your vise. You can’t practice for an hour or two with the .223 and switch it in the field easily.

How are you leveling that scope?.. though you might get lucky if it’s already been on the rifle and it’s just clamping it back to the rail.

I haven’t had an issue moving scopes around when they’re coming off/on as one unit with the rings (provided the rails not out of whack).

Once the factory barrel is broken loose, it’s a not crazy tight clamp in the vice and an internal action wrench.

I torque my aftermarket barrels stupid tight. The tighter the better.

 

[wyosam]

I’ve always pulled stock to change barrel. If you don’t, that saves time.

Even then, you have to be home to do it, or be traveling with your vise. You can’t practice for an hour or two with the .223 and switch it in the field easily.


I haven’t had an issue moving scopes around when they’re coming off/on as one unit with the rings (provided the rails not out of whack).


I torque my aftermarket barrels stupid tight. The tighter the better.

No, I would not swap barrels in the field. Keeping threads clean is too important for that even if I wanted to. I do 80 ft/lbs on barrels, plenty tight. Not near the bite on the barrel in the vice needed as popping factory barrels loose was my meaning with that.


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[KHNC]

Somebody needs to call Tikka and tell them to thread the damn barrels. Having to pay 150 bucks on a brand new rifle sucks. But, Ill get it cut down to 16" in the process too. Something else Tikka should consider with as many people using Suppressors as there are now.

 

[Mike D Texas]

They are readily available in a few places with good reputations. What size are you looking for?

Magnum bolt face.


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