Recurve bow choice

[Andrewlonghi]

This would be my first traditional bow ever and I'm not sure were to start. I'll been looking at Bear and Hoyt bows I'm leaning more to the Bear undecided on which one yet. What would be a good starter for me from these two choices

 

[MT_Wyatt]

I woudl look into ILF for pairing risers with separate limbs, takedowns, or single pieces and decide what configuration you want first. Hoyt Satori riser is kind of an easy button, but a lot more $ to get into to start. I see Bear has a version of this in a "Fred" as well as a "Mag" riser:

Fred Eichler Signature Series Take Down

We are proud to partner with traditional bowhunter, Fred Eichler on a new, first of its kind aluminum Take Down riser. The low wrist, slim grip design, adjustable strike plate and customizable shelf radius are critical components to the Fred Eichler riser that give bowhunters flexibility.

www.beararchery.com

*I'm no help between the Satori and Bear ILF riser offerings, hopefully someone can chime in that has used both, the Bear one looks intruiging. Also another interesting ILF riser out there: https://www.3riversarchery.com/das-ht-21-riser.html

Since you said First recurve I will offer some unsolicited advise as well:
Personally, I would just get a cheap Samick Sage (< $200) with a pair of lower weight limbs along with a pair of 50lb limbs - that isn't a hoyt or bear like you asked, but it works. I did that for a year and it worked fine, killed a bull with it even. THEN go a little more "all in" once you have figured out some preferences in the bow? It's always nice to have a lower 30-40lb bow laying around for some easy practice.

You'll be faced with more decisions - split vs 3-under (I would do 3 under), instinctive vs gap vs string walking vs fixed crawl (I would do this and use your arrow point to aim if you are coming from a compound, set your crawl at 20-25 yards) on shooting style, where and what you anchor with, tab vs glove (I would use a tab), etc.

 

[nevadabugle]

I always reccomend ILF bows for beginners. Research ILF set ups, but in short, the riser and limbs are interchangeable between manufacturers. This means you can buy a cheap set of light weight limbs to start and then upgrade to more expensive heavier limbs if you decide you like the sport.

Bear does not make any ILF bows. Hoyt does, the Satori. Also look on Lancaster and 3 rivers archery. They will have many ILF Risers and Limbs. Stuff as cheap as 150 for each piece (riser, limbs).

 

[nevadabugle]

I woudl look into ILF for pairing risers with separate limbs, takedowns, or single pieces and decide what configuration you want first. Hoyt Satori riser is kind of an easy button, but a lot more $ to get into to start. I see Bear has a version of this in a "Fred" as well as a "Mag" riser:

Fred Eichler Signature Series Take Down

We are proud to partner with traditional bowhunter, Fred Eichler on a new, first of its kind aluminum Take Down riser. The low wrist, slim grip design, adjustable strike plate and customizable shelf radius are critical components to the Fred Eichler riser that give bowhunters flexibility.

www.beararchery.com

*I'm no help between the Satori and Bear ILF riser offerings, hopefully someone can chime in that has used both, the Bear one looks intruiging. Also another interesting ILF riser out there: https://www.3riversarchery.com/das-ht-21-riser.html

Since you said First recurve I will offer some unsolicited advise as well:
Personally, I would just get a cheap Samick Sage (< $200) with a pair of lower weight limbs along with a pair of 50lb limbs - that isn't a hoyt or bear like you asked, but it works. I did that for a year and it worked fine, killed a bull with it even. THEN go a little more "all in" once you have figured out some preferences in the bow? It's always nice to have a lower 30-40lb bow laying around for some easy practice.

You'll be faced with more decisions - split vs 3-under (I would do 3 under), instinctive vs gap vs string walking vs fixed crawl (I would do this and use your arrow point to aim if you are coming from a compound, set your crawl at 20-25 yards) on shooting style, where and what you anchor with, tab vs glove (I would use a tab), etc.

That bear is not ILF. It uses a proprietary attachment system.

 

[MT_Wyatt]

That bear is not ILF. It uses a proprietary attachment system.

I didn’t look very close at it, good to know. Personally no way I’d consider something that wasn’t ILF, surprised they did that.

 

[Andrewlonghi]

Thanks for the info guys..I will look into the ILF bows.

 

[nevadabugle]

I didn’t look very close at it, good to know. Personally no way I’d consider something that wasn’t ILF, surprised they did that.

I know why and I understand it. I have several limbs that are 30 plus year old from and Old Bear A and B handle that would plug and play on that riser. So I get it that they kept the same fitting.

 

[Andrewlonghi]

What kind of arrows would be a good choice to start put with?

 

[Wrench]

What kind of arrows would be a good choice to start put with?

There's no way to answer until you have the length of draw, weight of bow and choice of point weight.

 

[8grenade]

First recurve recommendations

What up fellas I'm looking to get into shooting a recurve, and I'm looking for some recs to get into it without lightening the wallet too bad. It would be cool if one bow could carry me through a ways. The idea of a takedown bow is attractive to me for some reason. Is a Sage Samick worth...

rokslide.com

 

[nevadabugle]

What kind of arrows would be a good choice to start put with?

Kind as in brand or spine? Brand can be anything, lots of good arrows. If your into carbon I always liked Easton Axis as a dependable but affordable shaft. @Wrench is correct about spine, no way to know until we know the bow and weight you decide on. Trad bows are much more unforgiving of spine ranges than compounds are.

 

[Andrewlonghi]

So I was talking to a buddy about trying trad over the weekend and today he gives me this. He didnt real know anything about it, if reading the #'s roght its 45lb?

 

[nevadabugle]

The X after the 45 means it was built as a 45 pound bow but came out a bit heavier. Make sure you do not use a fast flight string as it could damage the tips. Dacron is the safest with those older bows. Needs a little stretch to protect the limb tips.

 

[Andrewlonghi]

The X after the 45 means it was built as a 45 pound bow but came out a bit heavier. Make sure you do not use a fast flight string as it could damage the tips. Dacron is the safest with those older bows. Needs a little stretch to protect the limb tips.

Thank you...im going to look into some arrows,quiver and stuff for it

 

[Agross]

Great bow to start with. My first recurve was a bear kodiak. Love that bow. Still have it. Best grip of any bow I’ve tried.

 

[Mighty Mouse]

+1 for ILF as a starter bow. You could pair a Galaxy Explorer riser with whatever cheap set of Olympic-style limbs strikes your fancy for around $200 total. An ILF setup would allow you to easily swap limbs as you work your draw weight up and would give you many options on limb weight/length/material. 45# is too heavy for a first trad bow IMO. I would recommend starting with half your compound draw weight (or less) to avoid injury and/or developing bad shooting habits.

 

[Andrewlonghi]

There's no way to answer until you have the length of draw, weight of bow and choice of point weight.

I put the string on the bow yesterday evening and pulled it back with a 27" arrow. Wife said look like about 3/4" to 1" sticking out in front of my hand. I felt I needed to pull back I little more not sure. I'm thinking maybe 28" arrow would be a good choice. As far as broadheads, probably will go with 150gr ironwill

 

[Rob5589]

What kind of arrows would be a good choice to start put with?

Full length in the proper spine. That will depend on draw weight at your draw length, desired tip weight, shelf vs rest, etc.

 

[Andrewlonghi]

Full length in the proper spine. That will depend on draw weight at your draw length, desired tip weight, shelf vs rest, etc.

Shelf, 28 inches, 45lb, 150gr broadhead

 

[Wrench]

Shelf, 28 inches, 45lb, 150gr broadhead

For those numbers a 400 or 500 should be able to clean up. If it's cut past center and or fast limbs, start 400 if not.....500.