The day I shot a hole in my suppressor (TBAC 338 ultra)

Geewhiz

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I started to discussed this in the "Cold Bore Challenge Q&A" thread but figured I would start my own thread for those who were interested in updates.

Here's some copy and paste from the other thread and I will continue to update this thread.


6/9/23
Not quite what I expected this morning. Shot my second MER shot at 610. Ultimately the blame is on me b/c I failed to notice/double check but my suppressor was not fully threaded onto the muzzle resulting in a catastrophic failure. Nobody was hurt with the exception of my ego but it was a lesson learned. As the shot broke I saw one heck of a muzzle flash and i looked up to see my suppressor cartwheeling through the air at the 50 yard line. 🤦‍♂️ Needless to say I missed.

***PSA: Even though it seams obvious, don’t get complacent and make sure your suppressor is fully threaded and seated correctly. Double check your setup and let my screw up save you a headache.***


(in response to a comment) :
Well, technically it wasn't b/c I was leary of overtightening. I had a helper this AM and so b/c of that I was not the one to put the suppressor on the rifle. Don't want to throw anybody under the bus b/c that person already feels sick about it, but it was my failure as I should have double checked/ didnt notice that the suppressor was (i assume) slid over the end of the brake but not actually threaded on. I suspect it bound up due to a cross thread and they thought it was fully seated.


(seperate post):
In any event I just got off the phone with tbac and it sounds like they will be able to repair my mistake in a reasonable time at a reasonable cost without having to trash my serial number.

Talked to a gentlemen right when they opened this morning. Great to talk to and did what he could to try to make me feel less like an idiot. He said as long as the outer tube isn't bulged it is salvageable. I did not mic the diameter but it does not appear to be bulged. Gave me a rundown on what they needed paperwork wise and said send it in, so its already on its way to Wyoming.

He told me at the moment they are pretty well caught up on repair work so turn around time should only be about 2-3 weeks which really surprised me as I was preparing myself to be without it for a year if it was even salvageable. Cost to repair obviously depends on what they find during their inspection but worst case scenario if every baffle is blown to crap and they have to recore the entire thing he told me ***when I asked for ballpark numbers that I wouldnt hold him to*** around $1200 ish give or take. He said most commonly when people have a baffle strike it consists of replacing the end cap and a baffle or two, and we're looking at a few hundred bucks or so. I did not take the time to clean the mud and carbon out of it to inspect the full extent of the damage but based on the end cap I'm thinking it may be more than just a baffle or two.

Either way as soon as it happened I'm thinking I'm out $1900 + $200 stamp plus a year of waiting, so worst case still is great news.


heck maybe I should just start a thread that I can update
 
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Geewhiz

Geewhiz

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Put the can in the mail on friday 6/9 and made its way to wyoming. $50 to ship a suppressor with $2k worth of insurance.

Monday afternoon 6/12:
Got a call from William who is the shop manager at TBAC. Said they had received my suppressor and had inspected it. He said good news is that it is repairable, bad news is it's not going to be cheap. (not suprised, what is?)

He said every baffle was damaged, some had holes in them and/or missing pieces. He said he would have to recore the whole thing but when he is done with it, it will be like it was when I bought it. $1295 for the repair.

@Megalodon I inquired about them recoring it with gen 2 baffles which would supposedly make it more effective and lighter weight. He said it is not possible as the gen 1 is made of baffles welded inside of a tube, whereas the gen 2 is a tubeless design of baffles welded to eachother. Unfortunately that can't happen.

I gave him the go ahead and he said he would get going on it. He said they are pretty well caught up on service at the moment and I should have it back within a couple of weeks. Great news.


The price to repair it is an unexpected shot to the nuts either way, but that aside I think I am pretty fortunate that 1: nobody was hurt when it happened, 2: it is repairable, saving me wait time and money, and 3: a turn around time of only 2-3 weeks.

TBAC has been awesome to work with and each time I call I am immediately transfered to someone who knows what they are talking about and is willing to talk to me.
 
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This sucks..I saw it happen few times at the range before I bought mine. One of the reasons I went with a can with removable baffles and endcap.
Hopefully they get back to you quickly.
 
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How does repairing them work with the stamp? Do you have to redo it?

Depends on the construction/build process of the suppressor. Some types the core and weld cap can be cut off and pushed out. Some are fully welded design and that would warrant a new serial number
 
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Geewhiz

Geewhiz

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How does repairing them work with the stamp? Do you have to redo it?
Like others have said, other suppressors with varying construction may differ in terms of legal paperwork involved in a repair. In my case with how my can is constructed, the only paperwork involved is the form I filled out to be able to legally ship a NFA Class III weapon.

Basically If you can salvage the portion of the can that has the serial number on it, it can be rebuilt. You cannot be issued a new serial number (without a form 4), and a serial number cannot be transfered from one can to another, even if the original is destroyed.
 
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I'm so paranoid about this that before each range session when I attach the suppressor, I remove the bolt and look down the barrel to check that it's aligned.
 
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Geewhiz

Geewhiz

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I'm so paranoid about this that before each range session when I attach the suppressor, I remove the bolt and look down the barrel to check that it's aligned.
Couldn't hurt. Might just save you a $1300 repair bill, or worse.
 
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I can add to the cautionary tales. I had a barrel miss-stamped with the wrong twist. Bullets were tumbling as shown in photo at 25 yards! I was doing the initial sight in with suppressor ON. By some miracle I did not get a strike or harm suppressor.
Never transition to suppressor until everything else is verified first is my new rule.
 

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I could do that but I don't see how it's any quicker than what I currently do, which takes about 5-10 seconds.
I never check mine...just screw it on the muzzle device and tighten the lock ring on the can, another reason I went non direct thread, dont have to worry about it vibrating loose..
 
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I had a baffle strike with my first range session with my very first suppressor. The threads weren't concentric muzzle break attachment for my SAS titanium reaper. Had a couple nice guys at the range trying to help me figure out what was going on and was fairly embarrassed over i did.

Fortunately it wasn't my fault, other then not looking down the barrel beforehand. Sent it to SAS. They thought it initially was the threads on my rifle but confirmed the muzzle break was faulty. They repaired the can and sent me a new muzzle break at no charge.

Sounds like you're not going to be so lucky.
 
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