Arrow Building / Configuration

[mmccolloch]

Hey guys,

Wanted to get your input on my current arrow & my upcoming arrow "trial"

Current Arrow:
Gold Tip Kinetic 300 cut to 29" carbon to carbon (10.4 GPI)
3 fletch (factory fletch) 2" vanetec HP's (5 grains each)
Accu-tough Kinetic insert (24 grains)
Kinetic nock bushing (7.4 grains)
Accu-tough Kinetic nock (11.6 grains)
Slick Trick Magnum broadhead (100 grains)

Total arrow weight: 459.6 grains
FOC (based on Gold Tip Calc.): 9.74%

Trial Arrow:
Gold Tip Hunter 300 cut to 29" carbon to carbon (9.3 GPI)
3 fletch, using 3" vanetec Vmax with right helical (6.4 grains each)
Accu-light insert (11.4 grains)
nock bushing (12.6 grains)
Bohning F-nock (6 grains)
Gold Tip Fact weight (50 grains)
Slick Trick Magnum broadhead (100 grains)

Total arrow weight: 468.9 grains
FOC (Based on Gold Tip Calc): 13.05%

If it helps in the arrow evaluation, my current setup is as follows:
2015 Bear Traxx (338 IBO)
28.5" draw length
65 lbs draw weight
ACE ripcord drop away
Black Gold Ascent 3 pin slider
My goal is to get an all around good hunting arrow that flies fantastic & would work well for anything from white tails (Midwest), to elk, black bears, & wild hogs.

My current arrow flight is just okay... so I'm looking to get some better performance out of my trial arrow. I should note that this is my first attempt at building my own arrows, so any input or advise would be greatly appreciated.

I have all of the stuff on order to construct 6 of my trial arrows, and am expecting it by this weekend. I was hoping to get everyone's input on the proposed configuration. Component selection (especially vane selection), FOC, arrow weight, arrow spine with the big FACT weight up front, etc.

How many guys run nock bushings? It seems like this is a great idea for arrow preservation during practice sessions, but it messes with your FOC something fierce. I'm trying to maintain 12-14% FOC with this arrow (based on what I've read) so running a nock bushing makes me add more weight up front to maintain that FOC. I'm trying to find the right balance between arrow weight, velocity, FOC, & accuracy.

Also, I'm trying to get an arrow configuration that I can use for 3D & hunting that will allow me to shoot 1 set of arrows with 1 bow so that everything from hunting to target doesn't change my sight tape.

One other question I had was how does changing FOC change your point of impact? I'm a tinkerer so I can see myself going down the rabbit hole of arrow building pretty quickly. I recently just got a 3 pin slider and would also like to know how much changing 10 grains on my arrow, or modifying my FOC by a percent or two will affect my sight tape. I live in the city, so for my home practice, I am limited to shooting 8 yards in my garage. Shooting at longer distances, out to say 60 yards is only feasible on the weekends, so testing is slow going.

Thanks in advance guys!

 

[MattB]

A few thoughts: I doubt changing arrows will have a measurable impact to arrow flight, focus on tuning of your current set-up would be a better use of your time. Personally, I really like nock bushings. Trading into a lighter shaft to gain FOC IMO is not a worthwhile endeavor IMO (although 9.3 gpi should still be plenty durable), nor switching to a "lite" insert which may weaken the juncture of the BH/shaft (common failure point). If increased FOC is a goal, you likely have adequate sline to run a 125 gr. bh, even if it means shortening your shaft a bit (you should have that flexibility with a 29" cut and 28.5" DL unless you want the BH ahead of your hand for safety purposes).

 

[mmccolloch]

Thanks for the input MattB!

I should also mention that the major driver on switching arrows was cost & durability of the outserts. They don't give away those Kinetics... & I AM NOT a fan of the outsert that they use. I have had problems with these breaking/bending.

 

[doverpack12]

Nothing wrong with your trial arrow. However I would go with a shorter shaft length. Try cutting a few of your kinetics down behind the insert and then install a stainless steel insert (56-60 grains depending on brand) that will be much more durable than the gold tip aluminum inserts even with the collars. This will also increase FOC. Nothing wrong with the Vanetec 3" Vmax vanes. I don't use a nock bushing but instead have nock collars on my brand of arrows I use. The screw in weight system on your trial arrows should work well. I also use two screw in 20 grain weights behind my inserts.

 

[mmccolloch]

Nothing wrong with your trial arrow. However I would go with a shorter shaft length. Try cutting a few of your kinetics down behind the insert and then install a stainless steel insert (56-60 grains depending on brand) that will be much more durable than the gold tip aluminum inserts even with the collars. This will also increase FOC. Nothing wrong with the Vanetec 3" Vmax vanes. I don't use a nock bushing but instead have nock collars on my brand of arrows I use. The screw in weight system on your trial arrows should work well. I also use two screw in 20 grain weights behind my inserts.

What are the advantages to cutting the arrow shorter, other than to modify arrow spine? Based on all of the arrow selection charts, I should be just fine with my 300's even at a 29" arrow length. I know a lot of guys cut their arrows shorter, but I'm not sure of the reasoning? I had my original arrows cut at 29" just so that my broadhead cleared my riser. Thanks for the insight!

 

[5MilesBack]

I don't like any of the outsert/half outs. I use HIT's in all my .204" ID arrows as I find them to be much more streamlined, clean, and durable. I also hate the GT nocks, they are made of a very hard plastic that seems to crack or break easily. I use Bohning A nocks without any bushings. Yes, the bushings may protect your arrows a bit but I prefer the KISS principle. I have RH'd some arrows, but IMO that's just part of the game. I mostly just shoot long range so I do shoot groups most the time unless I'm shooting BH's.

I also have shot arrow setups from 9% to 16% FOC without seeing much of a difference in accuracy/consistency out to 80 yards. I think either one of your arrows would work just fine, and either will kill everything you shoot at. The whole "durability" thing for me.......is how well they work for the 11 months out of the year when I'm not hunting. Once they blow through an animal, it's always a bonus to recover an undamaged arrow setup, but I really don't care if I somehow lose that arrow in my arsenal. But I do care when I shoot an arrow through a 2x4 and it's now suddenly unusable. I like durable.

I also use my 532gr Kinetic 200's for 3D as well, and I'm still competitive with those, so I see no reason why you couldn't use either setup for 3D as well as hunting. Also, if you want to save some money on Kinetics......search for the old style Kinetic XT's instead of the KAOS. I don't use the bushings or the collars on mine so I don't want to pay for those either. I picked up two brand new dozen Kinetic XT 200's on Ebay for $130 with shipping.

Good luck.

 

[doverpack12]

What are the advantages to cutting the arrow shorter, other than to modify arrow spine? Based on all of the arrow selection charts, I should be just fine with my 300's even at a 29" arrow length. I know a lot of guys cut their arrows shorter, but I'm not sure of the reasoning? I had my original arrows cut at 29" just so that my broadhead cleared my riser. Thanks for the insight!

The main advantage other than spine is increasing FOC. I don't mind my arrows being behind my riser because I don't shoot Broadheads big enough to hit the riser and I'm not worried about cutting my fingers. If you went with the heavier insert the arrow chart no longer applies but you will still be fine.