Broadhead vs bareshaft tuning

[PurpleDriver]

i Have always skipped paper tuning and gone straight to bare shaft tuning, then Broadhead tuning.

what would be the drawbacks of skipping bareshaft and going straight to BH tuning?

all I can think of is target damage, but I’m betting this rabbit hole has been explored before, but I couldnt find a thread hear about this specifically. Some mentions of skipping and going right to Bh tuning, but no real pros vs cons.

 

[WMag338]

I do the same thing. You'll have to broadhead tune anyways regardless of your paper tuning.

 

[Billy Goat]

You are correct in it pretty much just being target damage.


Saves wear on your target using bareshafts before a final confirmation with broadheads but you can shoot them from the jump. Make sure you shoot broadheads first, otherwise you will be saving arrows and target wear.

 

[Bump79]

You are correct in it pretty much just being target damage.


Saves wear on your target using bareshafts before a final confirmation with broadheads but you can shoot them from the jump. Make sure you shoot broadheads first, otherwise you will be saving arrows and target wear.

100%.

 

[Beendare]

I skip to BHs in my Compound…..but Many reasons I shoot bare shafts before going right to BH in my recurve;
Proper arrow development
adjust my nok height….
I have to have all that before I can calibrate my gaps/trajectory at the different yardages

Plus I always have a bareshaft in my practice quiver and shoot them regularly as a form check.

Fletched arrows with FPs can hide a lot of flaws…they give a guy a false sense of reality when it comes to bow tune.

 

[camelcluch]

I’m a weirdo and start with bare shaft paper, then fletched paper. I will even bare shaft at 20. I then check with broadheads. It’s an overkill but I like multiple checks. Usually I don’t have any issues after paper.
I know it’s not all needed but apparently I’m bored.

 

[homebru.trout]

I skip paper generally and go straight to bareshaft at 20 then verify with broadheads. If bareshaft is wildly off I will go back to paper just to get it close but I don't generally chase a perfect hole.

 

[MattB]

I too go pretty much straight to broadheads after paper, and sometime after just getting the bow set up. Just seems the fastest way to get to your final tune for me.

 

[MT257]

When those of you going to 20 with a bare shaft. Care to explain a bit more of your process? Are you looking for shaft to be at same angle entering target as fletched arrow or arrow with broadhead?

 

[waldo9190]

My process:

Fletched paper --> Bare shaft paper --> Bare shaft & fletched at 20 --> Broadhead & Field tip at 20.

I shoot as much as I can without a broadhesd to save on target wear. I also don't look for a perfect bare shaft bullet hole before moving on, but like to be fairly close (no more than .25" tear). Usually I'll work out as much of the vertical issues as I can on paper and leave the horizontal to the 2p yard bare shaft and the broadheads.

 

[MattB]

When those of you going to 20 with a bare shaft. Care to explain a bit more of your process? Are you looking for shaft to be at same angle entering target as fletched arrow or arrow with broadhead?

Mostly relative point of impact for me. Typically any angle the BS has will coincide with where the BS impacts relative to a fletched shaft (e,g. if it hits low/left, the nock will be a bit high/right).

 

[NYSKIER]

Mostly relative point of impact for me. Typically any angle the BS has will coincide with where the BS impacts relative to a fletched shaft (e,g. if it hits low/left, the nock will be a bit high/right).

I second this. I don't even use paper I just bare shaft with fletched into a target then move to broadheads

 

[MT257]

Mostly relative point of impact for me. Typically any angle the BS has will coincide with where the BS impacts relative to a fletched shaft (e,g. if it hits low/left, the nock will be a bit high/right).

So understanding this correctly the bare shaft impact would be where the broadhead would impact compared to field point correct.

 

[NYSKIER]

So understanding this correctly the bare shaft impact would be where the broadhead would impact compared to field point correct.

Yes. If bareshaft and fletched are together, broad head will almost always follow

 

[MattB]

So understanding this correctly the bare shaft impact would be where the broadhead would impact compared to field point correct.

Directionally yes (the reaction is the same), but I would not say the same spot as the broadhead.

 

[5MilesBack]

So understanding this correctly the bare shaft impact would be where the broadhead would impact compared to field point correct.

Somewhat. But a few years ago I had BS's hitting left of fletched FP's at 20 consistently (nock right) and my yoke adjustments just weren't bringing them together. So I shot a BH at 20.......it was 2" RIGHT of fletched FP's. So I shot the BH and FP's at 40, and the BH's were about 4" right of FP's. Then I shot a BS at 40 and it almost robin hooded the BH arrow. Shot another BS at 20 and it was left of fletched. So I ignored the 20 yard results and just BH tuned at 40 and 60. Both BH's and BS's came together with fletched FP's. After I was done tuning, 20 yard BS's were still left of fletched. SMH I'll trust my BH's and 40 yard BS's from now on.

 

[PurpleDriver]

Thanks for all the feedback everyone. Seems like plenty people skip straight to BH tuning.

The reason for the question is I moved and lost my home range. The area around me is very urban(not my first choice, but best move for family).

my process in my last home was paper for fletched and bareshaft, then bareshaft 20 to 60 in 10yd increments, the test BH out to max range on sight tapes (97yds).

I now have to drive 25 min to a public range that has nice targets out to 90, but BH not allowed on range even with my own target. No room to shoot at home. I drive out to a construction site after hours to shoot BH at my 12” Block target. (Yes I have permission to be there). I’m just trying to shorten my process since I now have to drive everywhere to shoot.

 

[KBC]

I get the BS tear close-ish and then just go to BH tuning. I’ve found it’s just faster than when I did BS in paper, BS at 20-40 then BH tune.

 

[Tx_archer_6]

Used to do BS tuning and always had good luck with it. Then learned that all of the best shooters in my area that could shoot a 300 game with ease, didn’t BS tune so I stopped. I still shoot through paper with fletched at point blank and then if that’s good, I shoot again at about 15 feet. I also like to nock tune each arrow until they are all shooting bullets or at least really close to bullets. I shoot all season with that until I’m getting close to hunting season then start the BH tuning process. BH tuning is basically the same as BS tuning so why do it twice?

Just my opinion though, do what gives you warm and fuzzies and makes you smile at the end of the day!

 

[PurpleDriver]

I went to BH tuning only after setting my bow up this year. Not sure I’ll ever paper or BS tune again. For me it was so much faster, but bow was admittedly in perfect tune I just changed modules to drop 15# of draw weight.