Do it all lightweight backcountry hunting knife

Randle

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Whose is batoning wood in the backcountry? :cautious:
Go thru a wet night in PNW and you will. or at least carving to get to dry wood.
A gallon of gas and a flare might work. it can be really wet starting late sept.
 
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Benchmade knives are very hard to beat. I like the fixed blades but the folding knives are pretty good as well.
IF you're good at sharpening the Benchmades are impossible to beat - I'm not so I use Outdoor Edge with some extra blades (you can buy all sorts of OE blades on Amazon, I like the blunt tip ones) I no longer carry a "hatchet" on hunts, darn good way to debilitate urself or die on a hunt
 
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Go thru a wet night in PNW and you will. or at least carving to get to dry wood.
A gallon of gas and a flare might work. it can be really wet starting late sept.
a lightweight wood saw (like most all tree removal experts use) enough said …..
 

Randle

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Some don't carry a saw. Thats why options and opinions are different . Why do people have to say " enough said " like that's the only right answer in a thread.
 
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Some don't carry a saw. Thats why options and opinions are different . Why do people have to say " enough said " like that's the only right answer in a thread.
"some don't carry a saw" ? most don't carry a hatchet … a folding tree trimmers saw weighs much less and is less likely to hurt the user, is common sense "out of line" ?
 

Randle

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don't know …. habit I guess ? enough said ?
ok habit, got it . I have some I need to change. I used to say "in and of itself" drove my wife crazy. I carry saw and a solid fixed blade. never did carry a hatchet like my dad and granddad . the disposable blade thing just doesn't work for me. The fixed blade can change year to year. Always have to try a better mousetrap.
 

HawkCreek

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A bit more expensive and probably heavier than most others mentioned here but I like the Gossman UNK. So much so that more often than not it's my edc (but working on ranches and in construction it's not out of place in my world). The modified warrencliffe blade doesn't look aggressive at all but it makes a great processing knife. I've also battened it through some tough wood and never once been worried about damage to the knife.
 

Team4LongGun

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"Get a light weight hatchet for the wood as a knife is not the best option."

I agree-when it comes to blades, you may be trying to do to many tasks with just one tool. I'd break it into 2 tools....
 
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Morakniv companion. 5.1oz with sheath. Less than $20 knife that I can sharpen to razor sharp in 30 seconds... I prefer the high carbon steel but it comes in stainless as well. I just made the switch to these knives myself and couldn't be happier.

I love my Morakniv. Light enough and damn durable. Seems to hold a good edge. Cheap, so i don't have to stress about losing it. Probably not the best for butchering, but combined with a havalon, it worked great for processing an elk in the field last year. With that combo, I don't really need anything else.
 

Trial153

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You can do everything you stated with a dozier pro guide, gene Ingram lite skinner or hunter, or a Charles may sp7, tallache or big woods
 

mcseal2

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Not cheap but my choice would be the Bark River Bravo LT hunter in 3V steel. It slices better than other thicker bladed knives I have. It has enough tip strength and is stout enough to baton through the little bit I have needed to do with it.

I have skinned and quartered a whitetail with it a couple times. It isnt my first choice but it works fine.

It is a knife I carry scouting and fishing and might take to Alaska or other really wet remote places. For most hunts though a Dozier Pro Guide, Bark River clip point hunter in 3V, or a Benchmade Saddle Mountain skinner is plenty tough for anything I might do and those are knives I like better for their primary job of processing game. I like a little bigger knife than most and will pack the little extra weight of something like this.
 

Lawnboi

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Check out LT Wright. Have had a lot of the knives mentioned here and can say that LT makes the most usable knife, designed for use, for the best price IMO. No overly thick blades or goofy grinds, and mostly available in tough matte scale options. Premium steel, 3v and aebl have been my favorite

For a do all, including some light batoning I’d check out the genesis in a flat grind, jessmuk companion if you like Scandi grinds, or an outback in a saber grind.

For a knife that is more specialized to cutting up game but will hold its own working with wood, and this is my preferred knife that I carry even over customs, the northern hunter, large or small doesn’t matter, hell of a knife.

Best of all these knives are more affordable than some of the other semi custom or premium mass produced knives.


Personally if I know I’ll be splitting lot of wood to get some dry stuff I’m carrying a small splitting hatchet and a saw. Then use my knife for processing smaller stuff.

Also if you are going to process wood and plan on cutting up animals, I’d pick something you can sharpen in the field. S90 or Elmax are not what I would want.
 

Randle

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As the title states looking for a knife that can do it all skin debone animals baton wood whatever I need it to do... but at the lightest weight possible... looking for suggestions thanks guys

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Are you looking for a knife to use regularly to split wood and process meat , i would consider 2 knives if so. Or something that can be used for a fire overnight stay.
I carry a fixed blade that I use to process game but if needed and only if needed I can process wood for a night in the woods away from camp.
 
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My Pendleton Hunter CPM-3V weighs 6.8 oz with the plastic sheath. The above talk about a 3 oz pendleton is the mini-hunter, a good knife but not near as thick or heavy duty a blade as the regular Pendleton. I would rather find a light saw to do double duty, rather than dull my knife. Gerber Myth T handle saw with sheath weighs 4.8 oz; Couglan folding saw weighs 1.4 oz.
 
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