Kimber aint cutting it. looking for something new

[BXB77]

So I really wanted my Kimber 84M classic in .308 to work out. I had a goal to shoot 1 MOA out to 400 yards. It will shoot 1MOA from a lead sled at 100 yards. I have not been able to keep that consistency out to 300 yards. I cant send it back to Kimber, because technically it meets their accuracy warranty standards. I have decided that I just can't shoot a rifle that light accurately. I am thinking about picking up a Christianson Arms Mesa in 6.5 creedmore. has anyone had any experience with these rifles?

 

[ianpadron]

My buddy has one. Lot of gun for the money. I like the stock, Trigger tech trigger, and pistol grip angle. Very accurate as well

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[280twoeighty]

1 MOA @ 400 yards with any rifle for most shooters is a tough thing to accomplish. Definitely doable, but takes a lot of practice. The .308 win is not ideal but can do it at that distance. You certainly need a really good scope and a round that your rifle likes.
I know many will say this is not big deal. But it is for most of us. As I said. Takes a lot of practice to repeat 1 moa at 400yds with a rifle chambered in certain calibers. 30 06, 7mm RM, .308, etc.
Your 6.5's are a different deal.
I am also not talking about LR/precision F class type shooting. I am talking about a hunting rifle and situation.
Fwiw.

I thought I read 400yds. Again, with practice 300 yds you should be able to do it. If you can. Do three shot groups with it. Document results. Do not over clean your rifle. This is after you have a round or load you have determined your rifle likes. Be patient. You can get there.

 

[16Bore]

Ditch the sled and work on your technique. MOA = MOA. 400 yards isn’t far, but parallax and wind can be a factor. 308 is plenty capable.

 

[Jsunkler]

Ditch the sled, and go for a front rest and rear bag. I have seen guys ready to sell rifles that were shot from sleds be amazed at their accuracy off of proper bench rests.

 

[MT_Wyatt]

I have a Kimber Hunter in 6.5 creedmoor and just picked up a CA Ridgeline in .300 Win Mag last month. I consider myself an average shot. I was going to get another Kimber in a Montana, but everyone said the CA was a hell of a lot of rifle for the money. After using one, I would wholeheartedly agree.

With a hunting rifle, the kimber is the first I’ve been able to shoot MOA with. It’s 6.5 lbs scoped, and very enjoyable, easy to put a box through. The Ridgeline is the first braked rifle I’ve had, and I’m pretty flinchy - also extremely tolerable to put a box through. I really like the trigger and stock of the CA rifle. Even easier to shoot MOA with for me.

If you want a CA rifle I wouldn’t hesitate. The Kimber has been good for me and the CA has been great.

 

[Newtosavage]

Agreed on ditching the sled, but have you considered a heavier stock? Either weighting the one you have now, or buying a heavier one?

Having said that, I know how hard it can be to keep a rifle once you've lost confidence in it. Been there, done that a few times.

 

[wakedye]

I have had a hard time shooting both of my guns consistently. over a couple months time I was able to drastically improve my shooting by doing a few things.
1. I watched a few videos on setting up the gun at a bench (using bags like others have suggested)
2. Worked on my trigger pull by dry firing both at home AND in between shots at the range (especially after a bad shot). Make sure you have your trigger finger in a good spot to decrease movement of stock when pulling the trigger.
3. Make sure trigger weight is reasonable.
4. Make sure I am not rushing a shot.
5. Practice technique over and over.

 

[gbflyer]

I stopped abusing myself shooting groups with a hunting gun past 200 years ago. If I set my 10” steel plate up at 300 to 600, and can hit it with most shots being somewhat centered, I’m just slap-happy. I now sleep better at night and drink less.

 

[BXB77]

Thanks for the responses. So I only used the lead sled to make sure it would shoot MOA at 100 yards. I have been using bag at 200 & 300 yards. The best group I have been able to shoot at 300 was 5 shots at about 5 1/2". I have practiced alot at this range. I figured if I set a goal of 1 MOA out to 400 on bags, then when the stress of making a shot in field I would have some room for error.

 

[MuleyFever]

Why ditch the sled? How does it improve accuracy?

 

[Mulga]

You are giving up too easily! I would highly recommend bedding the action. The action/stock fit is the single biggest improvement you should make before giving up on it. Very easy to do yourself, once you know how to do it your ideas about production rifles will change forever; plenty of youtube vids, I recommenced Devcon.

Check out this article for Kimber accurizing: https://thefiringline.com/forums/showthread.php?t=520031

I might also add, when I was in the market for a lite 'mountain rifle' I read all the poor comments about Kimber accuracy on the web, I was hesitant but really wanted a .280AI chambering so I rolled the dice. I bought second hand, the original owner had put 18 rounds through it at the range and sold it on to me as it had accuracy issues!! I checked all the potential problems highlighted in the above link; bedding was the only issue on mine (Kimber/Talley looked to have fixed the other issues). I devcon beaded it and can say its now incredibly accurate In my 20 years of shooting/hunting its is not the first time bedding has solved accuracy problems. Learning to problem solve accuracy issues is a skill worth knowing.

 

[Tman24]

Thanks for the responses. So I only used the lead sled to make sure it would shoot MOA at 100 yards. I have been using bag at 200 & 300 yards. The best group I have been able to shoot at 300 was 5 shots at about 5 1/2". I have practiced alot at this range. I figured if I set a goal of 1 MOA out to 400 on bags, then when the stress of making a shot in field hit I would have some room for error.

Are you holding the forend just behind the bag? If not, try it. Too many people shoot like a movie sniper with the off hand holding the butt stock. That doesn’t work well with light rifles.

 

[AK Troutbum]

Thanks for the responses. So I only used the lead sled to make sure it would shoot MOA at 100 yards. I have been using bag at 200 & 300 yards. The best group I have been able to shoot at 300 was 5 shots at about 5 1/2". I have practiced alot at this range. I figured if I set a goal of 1 MOA out to 400 on bags, then when the stress of making a shot in field hit I would have some room for error.

Well first off I’d like to say that (I can’t believe that I’m really saying this), isn’t anyone of these shots killing the animal you’re shooting at? I totally understand wanting to be able to have your rifle put round after round into one ragged hole, I get it, but the bottom line is being able to kill the animal at a comfortable distance with the rifle that you hunt with. The lighter weight/heavier caliber rifle that you’re using to hunt with is inherently going to be more difficult to shoot accurately, and the longer the range, the bigger your groups are going to get. If you’re purchasing a light wt., large caliber rifle, I would assume it’s to hunt with, and I’m also assuming that you’re most likely carrying it a lot more than you’re shooting it. Being able to put an ethical kill shot on an animal is priority one, and judging from this target, it looks to me like that can be accomplished given that you’re not dealing with some crazy cross winds. Again, I totally understand wanting to get the tightest groups possible, and if you’re really wanting to pick up another light wt. rifle, by all means do it, just make sure that you’re going down a rabbit hole that you can afford to go down. Oh, and are you allowing your barrel to cool down a little between shots (say 3 and 5)?


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[Mulga]

Well first off I’d like to say that (I can’t believe that I’m really saying this), isn’t anyone of these shots killing the animal you’re shooting at?

Agree 100%. Though the better the group the more wiggle room for shooter error in the field and added 'confidence' the shooter has in the rifles abilities.

 

[BXB77]

Are you holding the forend just behind the bag? If not, try it. Too many people shoot like a movie sniper with the off hand holding the butt stock. That doesn’t work well with light rifles.

I have done both, I have shot it in free recoil, and holding the scope with downward pressure. Neither seems to be better than the other

 

[BXB77]

Well first off I’d like to say that (I can’t believe that I’m really saying this), isn’t anyone of these shots killing the animal you’re shooting at? I totally understand wanting to be able to have your rifle put round after round into one ragged hole, I get it, but the bottom line is being able to kill the animal at a comfortable distance with the rifle that you hunt with. The lighter weight/heavier caliber rifle that you’re using to hunt with is inherently going to be more difficult to shoot accurately, and the longer the range, the bigger your groups are going to get. If you’re purchasing a light wt., large caliber rifle, I would assume it’s to hunt with, and I’m also assuming that you’re most likely carrying it a lot more than you’re shooting it. Being able to put an ethical kill shot on an animal is priority one, and judging from this target, it looks to me like that can be accomplished given that you’re not dealing with some crazy cross winds. Again, I totally understand wanting to get the tightest groups possible, and if you’re really wanting to pick up another light wt. rifle, by all means do it, just make sure that you’re going down a rabbit hole that you can afford to go down. Oh, and are you allowing your barrel to cool down a little between shots (say 3 and 5)?


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I agree all those shots are kill shots, but that is the best group I have been able to get out of hundreds of rounds. Alot of the other flyers were outside of the vital areas. Maybe not clean misses, but not a clean vital shot either. I would just like to see more consistency. I wait 5 minutes between three shot groups.

 

[BXB77]

You are giving up too easily! I would highly recommend bedding the action. The action/stock fit is the single biggest improvement you should make before giving up on it. Very easy to do yourself, once you know how to do it your ideas about production rifles will change forever; plenty of youtube vids, I recommenced Devcon.

Check out this article for Kimber accurizing: https://thefiringline.com/forums/showthread.php?t=520031

I might also add, when I was in the market for a lite 'mountain rifle' I read all the poor comments about Kimber accuracy on the web, I was hesitant but really wanted a .280AI chambering so I rolled the dice. I bought second hand, the original owner had put 18 rounds through it at the range and sold it on to me as it had accuracy issues!! I checked all the potential problems highlighted in the above link; bedding was the only issue on mine (Kimber/Talley looked to have fixed the other issues). I devcon beaded it and can say its now incredibly accurate In my 20 years of shooting/hunting its is not the first time bedding has solved accuracy problems. Learning to problem solve accuracy issues is a skill worth knowing.

Thanks for the info. This is a wood stock 84M classic. The stock is already bedded. I will check the screws as I am using tally rings.

 

[Mulga]

I agree all those shots are kill shots, but that is the best group I have been able to get out of hundreds of rounds. Alot of the other flyers were outside of the vital areas. Maybe not clean misses, but not a clean vital shot either. I would just like to see more consistency. I wait 5 minutes between three shot groups.

Bedding mating surfaces, action screw torque, mag well pressure, ammo and lesser extent scope mount/scope problem: check these first, see my post above with the link. 90% that its one of these, don't waste any more ammo until you eliminated these potential problems.

 

[JeffRaines]

Why ditch the sled? How does it improve accuracy?

I actually shoot better more consistent groups off bags. The recoil isn’t predictable with a sled, at least not for me.

I stopped abusing myself shooting groups with a hunting gun past 200 years ago. If I set my 10” steel plate up at 300 to 600, and can hit it with most shots being somewhat centered, I’m just slap-happy. I now sleep better at night and drink less.

This!

I have an 8” steel plate. If I can hit cold bore first shot at x distance then I consider that a huntable distance. Keep moving it out/moving back until you can’t hit it anymore. Then you know your limit, you can either practice to become comfortable at a longer distance or be happy with what you got. My Montana is a 500 yard gun, that’s all I bought it for.