Tikkas and Suppressors

[PlumberED]

There’s a couple of pictures.

Nice, neat work on the threading/adapter.

 

[fwafwow]

Thanks man. But it’s a good reminder of trying harder not to be an idiot.

It still worked

 

[fwafwow]

That’s a bummer dude. Sorry it’s impacting your hunt.

Flounder McFlounderson update - 1 hour of blue Loctite wasn't enough, but ~24 hour set did the trick.

 

[Formidilosus]

Flounder McFlounderson update - 1 hour of blue Loctite wasn't enough, but ~24 hour set did the trick.View attachment 620260

Rokset the muzzle brake.

 

[fwafwow]

Rokset the muzzle brake.

Definitely will do so when I intend to keep it on there. (Well, having just typed that, I definitely wanted to keep it on the barrel over stuck in the can.)

TBAC recommends red Loctite to attach the MB. But I'm thinking about just going with blue on a temporary basis, as I plan to send out the barrel for cutting and re-threading. Do I run the risk with blue of having the blue degrade so that I end up with the same problem - the MB stuck in the can?

 

[Axlrod]

Rokset the muzzle brake.

This^^^
It isn't affected by heat- well under something like 1800 degrees. Never had it come loose.

 

[fwafwow]

This^^^
It isn't affected by heat- well under something like 1800 degrees. Never had it come loose.

Right. I know the end solution, and never intended to make the mistake referenced above. Now I'm trying to determine the temporary solution.

Sorry to the OP for the continued tangent.

 

[wesfromky]

Right. I know the end solution, and never intended to make the mistake referenced above. Now I'm trying to determine the temporary solution.

Sorry to the OP for the continued tangent.

I had the same basic thing happen with my first suppressor as well.

Rokset is also temporary, just need to soak it in water for a bit, then it will come off just fine. Also, it helps to torque the muzzle device to spec. Now I rockset everything that I don't want to come loose without some intentional effort.

 

[atmat]

Do I run the risk with blue of having the blue degrade so that I end up with the same problem - the MB stuck in the can?

You do run that risk, as blue is not very strong and susceptible to heart.

Red is not “permanent,” just requires significant more effort to remove.

 

[PlumberED]

You do run that risk, as blue is not very strong and susceptible to heart.

Red is not “permanent,” just requires significant more effort to removes

Atmat is correct, blue loctite has a max temperature of 360F, as a temporary solution it should be ok a long as you don’t let the temperature get too high.

 

[Formidilosus]

Do I run the risk with blue of having the blue degrade so that I end up with the same problem - the MB stuck in the can?

Yes. Blue loctite isn’t strong enough if you do much shooting at all. Rokset comes off with a hand propane torch easy.

 

[fwafwow]

Atmat is correct, blue loctite has a max temperature of 360F, as a temporary solution it should be ok a long as you don’t let the temperature get too high.

Sounds like it should work perfectly - until I shoot it a few times!

Thanks to all for weighing in

 

[ABK]

Just got my T3 back from being threaded.

 

[Bmhunts]

I had my 30-06 tikka cut back to 18" and had a permanent thread/collar thing installed so I can direct thread my silencers on 5/8x24. I personally would never do it any other way, I'll never in a million years install some device on my barrels in order to use a silencer. Its direct thread all the way.

Who did you have do the threading and collar? What suppressor are you running?

 

[Nickziegler]

Who did you have do the threading and collar? What suppressor are you running?

I would 100% suggest sending out to silencer central for threading. I had a local gunsmith thread my tikka. First go it wouldn't thread. Second go the threads looks terrible and felt like it was cross threading. I sent it out to silencer central and had them cut the barrel down and thread for direct thread. They did great work

Sent from my SM-S918U using Tapatalk

 

[thinhorn_AK]

Who did you have do the threading and collar? What suppressor are you running?

Shaen custom rifles. Kampfield can also do something similar and I’d imagine LRI can as well. I mostly use a TBAC ultra 7 or a Hyperion k. I have a banish 30 but it’s junk so I don’t use it much, it’s like my truck silencer lol.

 

[Bmhunts]

The Tikka T3x lite barrel has enough meat to get 5/8"-24 threads on it, just not enough for a good shoulder. There are quite a few smiths who will thread your barrel and add a shoulder so that you don't have to use an adapter at all. AK Tinhorn posted pics earlier in the thread. Here is mine. It only cost me $30 more for this than it would have to just chop and thread the barrel. The pic is of a T3x lite in 6.5 Creedmoor that was cut to 18"View attachment 619392

Who did you have do the work? was the thread protector included in the $30 or just the collar?

 

[Gadjet]

Shaen custom rifles. Kampfield can also do something similar and I’d imagine LRI can as well. I mostly use a TBAC ultra 7 or a Hyperion k. I have a banish 30 but it’s junk so I don’t use it much, it’s like my truck silencer lol.

Why do you say that your Banish 30 is junk?

 

[pirogue]

Why do you say that your Banish 30 is junk?

Uggggh, when he has a TBAC Ultra 7 to use instead? No Brainer.

 

[thinhorn_AK]

Why do you say that your Banish 30 is junk?

Theres something rattling around inside of it and I can't get the end cap off, its going back for warranty. Its not particularily quiet or lightweight. For 100.0 or so more you could get a tbac ultra 7 or any number of silencers that perform better. I drank the coolaid with the banish 30 but after getting a few different cans, I wish I'd never bought that banish 30.

I do like my banish 22 better than my DA mask 22, its just as quiet, about 1/3rd of the weight lighter and the full titanium construction makes it much easier to clean than the DA mask.