Why is it so hard to get my scope level?

[thinhorn_AK]

Please pardon my ignorance, I’m struggling with a rifle set up here.

Normally, I don’t really do much long range shooting other than in the winter on my snowmobile, as such, most of my rifles are set up with basic scopes and 100yd zeros because 95% of the hunting I do is within 200yds.

I have a hunt coming up and the rifle I’m trying to set up just dosent seem right to me.

When I put the rifle on the Harris bipod and level it, level the scope, it looks ok but not perfect as far as the crosshairs being horizontal/verticle, it seems just slightly canted.

When I shoulder the rifle like I’m making an offhand shot, there is some serious tilt in the reticle.

I get it that when holding the rifle for an offhand shot maybe I’m tilting the gun but it seems really excessive, much more tilt than I’ve seen in any of my other rifles.

Should I set the rifle up so it looks good when I’m holding it offhand and then rely on a scope mounted level when I’m shooting off the bipod? Or should I mount it level when the rifle is sitting level and just tilt it when shooting off hand?

Sorry for the dumb question but this is actually sort of frustrating. I want to set it up right since it’s a dialing scope but I’m just not sure which way to go.

Again, I’m not really a long range shooter so I normally just set them up to look right when I shoulder them and move on.

 

[JF_Idaho]

I've always had the best luck getting prone on a rifle, and leveling the crosshairs to a plumb Bob or a level line.

Maybe not 100% level to the rifle but different stocks shoulder differently.

 

[Doc Holliday]

#1. I close my eyes, shoulder my rifle, then open my eyes.
#2 Adjust.
Repeat #1
Repeat #2 as needed

 

[SloppyJ]

I put my gun in a vise and then level it. I then level the scope to match. At this point I barely torque it down. Just so the scope isn't too easy to move. At that point I hang a plumb-bob on off the wall or I tape up a piece of paper and use a level to draw a vertical line. Then I make the final adjustments to the scope to match that line.

It's not perfect and I'm sure there are better ways of doing this but it's what works for me.

 

[thinhorn_AK]

I put my gun in a vise and then level it. I then level the scope to match. At this point I barely torque it down. Just so the scope isn't too easy to move. At that point I hang a plumb-bob on off the wall or I tape up a piece of paper and use a level to draw a vertical line. Then I make the final adjustments to the scope to match that line.

It's not perfect and I'm sure there are better ways of doing this but it's what works for me.

That’s basically what I did but then when I shoulder the rifle it’s super crooked.

 

[thinhorn_AK]

#1. I close my eyes, shoulder my rifle, then open my eyes.
#2 Adjust.
Repeat #1
Repeat #2 as needed

So you prefer level from the shouldered position? Then just make it level when shooting off a bipod?

 

[jt4]

You're shouldering the rifle to what feels comfortable. That hardly ever relates to being level. Have you considered putting a bubble level on the scope for reference?

Not sure if you bowhunt, but there's a reason nearly all sights have a level in them. What we think is level vs what is actually level are not the same.

 

[thinhorn_AK]

You're shouldering the rifle to what feels comfortable. That hardly ever relates to being level. Have you considered putting a bubble level on the scope for reference?

Yeah I’ve been using a bubble level.

 

[Samson7x]

You could use an Arisaka mounting system.

I use that and the plumb bob method. You will get some cant if you arent shouldering the rifle square.

Edit- that’s why your high dollar stocks adjust butt pad for cant. So you can shoulder where it’s comfortable but still have vertical elevation on crosshairs.

 

[SloppyJ]

That’s basically what I did but then when I shoulder the rifle it’s super crooked.

I put a swt of Hawkins rings on my 280ai and quickly realized that I have to consciously keep my cheek on top of the butt of the rifle or I tend to push it over a bit.

I imagine you're having the same issues.

 

[JGRaider]

Parabola LLC

parabola-llc.com

The Reticle Tru device is foolproof, and fast. Gets it level with the rifle bore every single time.

 

[thinhorn_AK]

You could use an Arisaka mounting system.

I use that and the plumb bob method. You will get some cant if you arent shouldering the rifle square.

I have a wheeler level set so I can keep a level on the rifle action then match the level on the scope to that.

Are you saying it’s best to level it like that then just adjust for the tilt when shouldering the rifle with the understanding that I’m probably just not holding it level?

 

[thinhorn_AK]

I put a swt of Hawkins rings on my 280ai and quickly realized that I have to consciously keep my cheek on top of the butt of the rifle or I tend to push it over a bit.

I imagine you're having the same issues.

I think I am.

 

[Samson7x]

I have a wheeler level set so I can keep a level on the rifle action then match the level on the scope to that.

Are you saying it’s best to level it like that then just adjust for the tilt when shouldering the rifle with the understanding that I’m probably just not holding it level?

Well leveling off the top of the turret isn’t always true to the crosshairs from my experience. The Arisaka levels off the bottom of the turret housing which is true. I tried the wheeler kit and never really was satisfied with the results. Those bubble levels can look good to my eye but be off by a fraction and it really shows on crosshairs.

 

[mxgsfmdpx]

You're shouldering the rifle to what feels comfortable. That hardly ever relates to being level. Have you considered putting a bubble level on the scope for reference?

Not sure if you bowhunt, but there's a reason nearly all sights have a level in them. What we think is level vs what is actually level are not the same.

Yep!

 

[JF_Idaho]

How are you leveling the scope as you stated in the op? The turrets and/or caps are not usually level to the crosshairs on most scopes. Using an arisaka type that levels off the scope body may be more precise, but still room for error.

What scope?

If you want it leveled to the rifle best to level the rifle action and then level the crosshair to a plumb line.

 

[thinhorn_AK]

How are you leveling the scope as you stated in the op? The turrets and/or caps are not usually level to the crosshairs on most scopes. Using an arisaka type that levels off the scope body may be more precise, but still room for error.

What scope?

If you want it leveled to the rifle best to level the rifle action and then level the crosshair to a plumb line.

Using a wheeler 2 piece level set, one level sits in the action, the other I’ve been putting it on the elevation dial since there’s nowhere else flat to put it.

Scope is a trijicon tenmile HX 3-18x50.

 

[thinhorn_AK]

Yep!

How do you do it? I know you’ve shot some coues deer at long range.

 

[atmat]

That’s basically what I did but then when I shoulder the rifle it’s super crooked.

When you shoulder it, it may look crooked on a blank wall. But try looking at a plumb bob to see if it lines up.

More likely than not, your scope and gun are now level (since you used a level set), and you’re just now beginning to see how much head cant you introduce to get behind the scope.

I’ve set up lots of scopes for people who shoulder it and say it’s crooked. Them I have them stare at a plumb line and they realize that it’s them who is crooked.

 

[Formidilosus]

Sorry for the dumb question but this is actually sort of frustrating. I want to set it up right since it’s a dialing scope but I’m just not sure which way to go.

Are you asking what is the optimum way to mount the scope and the optimum way to shoot it- which almost certainly means you will have to retrain yourself; or what way should you do it with no desire to practice or train?