1st Axis importance

Zac

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Im interested in what people think of this comparison. I seemed to have some difficulty with my rights and lefts on severe angles with my Spot Hogg. Wondering if switching to a MBG, or Axcel would clean that up.
 

BBob

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Out west with long shots common I'd never shoot a moving sight without an adjustable 1st axis. Why would you especially with movers?

Once your 1st is setup correctly and you still had angle issues it would then likely be a 3rd axis issue.
 
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406unltd

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I’d say go for it if you’re unhappy, and have the money to try something else out.
 
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Did you check your 3rd axis at full draw? Sometimes there can be a big difference in certain bows with 3rd axis static vs full draw. I would not switch from spot Hogg to black gold
 
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Zac

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Did you check your 3rd axis at full draw? Sometimes there can be a big difference in certain bows with 3rd axis static vs full draw. I would not switch from spot Hogg to black gold
Yeah I don't know how well the Hamskea tool fits on the bar though. I usually just end up using the Bright Sight tool.
 

LONE HUNTER

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I shoot black gold ascents (I think thats the model, its been while since I purchased them) and after adjusting all 3 axis have no issues on angled shots unless I do something stupid on my part. I would not shoot a slider sight that can't adjust all 3 axis but that is just me. I am not the most experienced archer out there but this has been my experience.
 

406unltd

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Yeah I don't know how well the Hamskea tool fits on the bar though. I usually just end up using the Bright Sight tool.
When you are out shooting the harsh angles, do you adjust your 3rd to hit? I ask because I set my 2nd and 3rd at home with door jam for 2nd and plumb bob for the third at full draw. Then I shoot the angles to confirm the third and make adjustments right there until it hits. I have two FE XL double pins and never had an issue with drift at distance or steep shots after all that.
 
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Zac

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When you are out shooting the harsh angles, do you adjust your 3rd to hit? I ask because I set my 2nd and 3rd at home with door jam for 2nd and plumb bob for the third at full draw. Then I shoot the angles to confirm the third and make adjustments right there until it hits. I have two FE XL double pins and never had an issue with drift at distance or steep shots after all that.
No I have thought about trying to implement that technique this year. I thought it somewhat precarious with the two different adjustment screws, versus the single third axis screw on the MBG. I guess I always thought 1st axis was supposed to be level to the riser. After watching the above video I think I may have had it wrong this whole time.
 

406unltd

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No I have thought about trying to implement that technique this year. I thought it somewhat precarious with the two different adjustment screws, versus the single third axis screw on the MBG. I guess I always thought 1st axis was supposed to be level to the riser. After watching the above video I think I may have had it wrong this whole time.
I hear ya. I’d tinker with that a little maybe. Once you get use the adjustments a little it might give some confidence it will hold. Take a touch out of one and add it to the other and it stays very snug.
 
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Marble

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When you are out shooting the harsh angles, do you adjust your 3rd to hit? I ask because I set my 2nd and 3rd at home with door jam for 2nd and plumb bob for the third at full draw. Then I shoot the angles to confirm the third and make adjustments right there until it hits. I have two FE XL double pins and never had an issue with drift at distance or steep shots after all that.
This is the correct way to do it.

Even after setting it correctly, you have to shoot and confirm. Then make adjustments from there.

Sent from my SM-G986U using Tapatalk
 
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