Help me select my first Elk/Moose/Bear rifle.

[raferalston]

New to hunting. I have a .270 Model 70 for White Tail here where I live in MN. My brother lives in CO and would like to do a couple hunting elk trips each year. While I've heard that the .270 will suffice I am worried about it being underpowered.

I'm leaning towards the Tikka T3X 300 Win Mag.

Anything else I should consider?

 

[Elkfitness]

Your 270 would be fine and is used every year on elk, but your idea on the tikka would be great too. There are many great rifles in that level of rifle. Savage and browning as well. You could look at a 300wsm and 7mm mag as well since you’re are just getting into looking. But the caliber picking can be maddening. So, Id just grab the tikka you are thinking about, put on a 3-15 or similar range scope and start practicing. You’ll be set.


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[EmperorMA]

The .270 Win is absolutely fine for elk.

But if you want a new rifle, that's cool. Just know that the TIkka stock isn't great at mitigating recoil, so you will definitely feel that .300 Win Mag.

 

[mtbn]

Your 270 is one of the finest elk calibers out there.

 

[raferalston]

Thanks for the info. The caliber selection is indeed maddening. If you had to pick one caliber that was theoretically designed with more "killing power" than the .270 what would it be? I plan on really only having three rifles. .17 HMR, .270 and x.

My understanding of "killing power" is:
Energy (in foot pounds) x Sectional Density x cross-sectional Area = Killing Power Score

That said, I am new to all of this so any advice is welcomed.

 

[Formidilosus]

My understanding of "killing power" is:
Energy (in foot pounds) x Sectional Density x cross-sectional Area = Killing Power Score

Not correct at all. “Killing power” is a result of destroyed tissue not a math equation. And not one of those things you listed can tell you anything about what wound a bullet will create.

You’re not missing a bigger rifle, your missing a training rifle. Your 270 is already more than needed for elk. You will not fail to kill an elk because of a 270 being too small, you will fail because you can’t find them, can’t get within range, can’t hit the front half at that range, or because scope/equipment failure. Be fit and learn to shoot very quickly and consistently from field positions to as far as you want to shoot.

 

[ZMT588]

Thanks for the info. The caliber selection is indeed maddening. If you had to pick one caliber that was theoretically designed with more "killing power" than the .270 what would it be? I plan on really only having three rifles. .17 HMR, .270 and x.

My understanding of "killing power" is:
Energy (in foot pounds) x Sectional Density x cross-sectional Area = Killing Power Score

That said, I am new to all of this so any advice is welcomed.

I planned on only having X amount of rifles once... Now I have XX amount of rifles...

 

[raferalston]

If it is not an equation how can you compare calibers and bullets?

 

[Formidilosus]

If it is not an equation how can you compare calibers and bullets?

You shoot them into tissue or properly calibrated tissue simulate and measure the total penetration depth, wound width, and shape at varying impact speeds.

Look a couple threads down from this one and find the one titled “223 for deer, elk, bear, and moose”. Read the whole thing and you should have a much better understanding of “killing power”.

 

[raferalston]

Thank you.

 

[Elkfitness]

The 300win mag is a big jump, at least 500ft lbs of energy at 400 yds vs the 270.

I’ve used my 300 win mag on everything in Colorado from deer to moose.

I think the 300win mag would be a nice add to your choice of calibers.

I do like the tikkas but in the 300win mag I’ve always like a 7.5lb ish rifle as I don’t use a brake on them and that weight let’s me really practice with it. I’ve had ruger Hawkeye all weathers, vanguard all weathers, and now have a nosler in 300 win mag the past 4yrs.


But- edited to add.

I did buy a 223 for training this year after reading Forms stuff on it because accuracy /practice really is key to your success.



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[ORfish]

300 WM will give you a MUCH larger margin of error. This helps with quartering shot (anything other than pure broadside). For example, at 300yrd (typical distance) the .270 (150 gr) will deliver 1166ft/lbs energy which is marginal for elk. The same Federal powershok ammo in 300WM at 300yrds (180gr) is 2200 ft/lb- double the .270, and more than sufficient. All that said, my I have watched my hunting partner kill 4 elk with his .270, but most take more than one shot and all were perfect broadsides.

 

[Formidilosus]

300 WM will give you a MUCH larger margin of error. This helps with quartering shot (anything other than pure broadside). For example, at 300yrd (typical distance) the .270 (150 gr) will deliver 1166ft/lbs energy which is marginal for elk. The same Federal powershok ammo in 300WM at 300yrds (180gr) is 2200 ft/lb

What is that “MUCH larger” margin of error? Can you use a picture or describe the placement where you can reliably and consistently kill an elk with a 300WN and Federal Powershocks, but you can’t with a 270?

 

[ORfish]

Front quartering through the shoulder.
Rear quartering, through the paunch.
Again- these are less than ideal shots. If you only shoot broadside, then not an issue. Depends on what kind of a shot you are willing to pass on.
You can't "overkill" an elk.

 

[Formidilosus]

Front quartering through the shoulder.
Rear quartering, through the paunch.
Again- these are less than ideal shots. If you only shoot broadside, then not an issue. Depends on what kind of a shot you are willing to pass on.
You can't "overkill" an elk.

A 270 can easily and without issue do that.

 

[ORfish]

"A commonly accepted threshold for the minimum amount of kinetic energy needed to kill an elk is 1500 ft-lbs. For whitetail deer, the minimum amount of kinetic energy is 1000 ft-lbs"- Colorado Parks & Wildlife.

If making marginal shots with a .270, I would want to keep ranges short and use a mono-metal bullet that won't fragment.

Soooooo, if you WANT a new gun, use the Colorado argument of the .270 being underpowered. Go get that .300WM (or 7RM, or 300WSM, or whatever). If you DON'T WANT to get a new gun, dont. Just limit your shots and use a quality bullet.

 

[Formidilosus]

"A commonly accepted threshold for the minimum amount of kinetic energy needed to kill an elk is 1500 ft-lbs. For whitetail deer, the minimum amount of kinetic energy is 1000 ft-lbs"- Colorado Parks & Wildlife.

If making marginal shots with a .270, I would want to keep ranges short and use a mono-metal bullet that won't fragment.

Soooooo, if you WANT a new gun, use the Colorado argument of the .270 being underpowered. Go get that .300WM (or 7RM, or 300WSM, or whatever). If you DON'T WANT to get a new gun, dont. Just limit your shots and use a quality bullet.

Sweet. So I’ll use a full metal jacket, non expanding or fragmenting bullet as long as it has 1,500ft-lbs of energy.

 

[Aaron Warpony]

jack o conner loved the 270 and killed more elk than most people ever see

 

[ORfish]

Sweet. So I’ll use a full metal jacket, non expanding or fragmenting bullet as long as it has 1,500ft-lbs of energy

Unusual, but if that is your choice- more power to you..

Personally I would use a Barnes copper like a TSX.

Last elk I shot was with my .257 Weatherby, so I would argue shot placement is more important than energy. Of course, I limited the shot to 200 yards and broadside. Would not have taken a more marginal shot with my .257.

 

[mtnbiker208]

338 win mag for a dedicated elk\moose\bear gun
your 270 will suffice for everything else.
2 gun battery and you are good to go for anything
the 30 is to close to the 270, a 300 mag would also give you a 2 gun battery also, but go bigger for better moose and big bear gun.