Budget rifle scope for beginner

My suggestion #1 would be the SWFA 6X - They flat work and an extra 6-7 oz is surely worth the piece of mind of having a scope that wont fail. Suggestion #2 would be a Burris FF II 3-9X40..Can get those for around $150-$175 and for a set and forget, solid variable - they do pretty damn good.
 
I’d have to vote on the vortex cross fire , with bdc reticle , affordable and warranty is hard to beat ,
I’ve had previous warranty issues from leupold and Nikon , not wanting to stand behind their product because of registration guidelines ,
Haven’t had to test vortex warranty as of yet ,
Nikon was upper level binos that cracked tube(guessing froze ?)
Leopold scope lost zero and never returned
 
I use all SWFA now, but Leupold bent over backwards for me. None of it was even their fault. Unreal company to deal with.

I dial, hence the change.
 
It’s amazing that people ever killed anything before these amazing SWFA scopes came along. Lol.

Seriously though, Lots if people don’t need a scope with dials and a milling reticle. Why take the weight and the bulk of you don’t plan to dial all the time?

This big time. I like scopes in mils and with dials but I often hunt with nothing more than s plain duplex reticle in a 3x9. Yes, that's for western mountains and not thick hardwoods. Most notably, the scope itself is 11 ounces. If I want to unscrew the caps I can dial with the help of a nickle in my pocket. Most of the time it's unnecessary. That set up will take me out to 600 and is limited more by the terminal ballistics of the lead pill and not the optics.
 
This big time. I like scopes in mils and with dials but I often hunt with nothing more than s plain duplex reticle in a 3x9. Yes, that's for western mountains and not thick hardwoods. Most notably, the scope itself is 11 ounces. If I want to unscrew the caps I can dial with the help of a nickle in my pocket. Most of the time it's unnecessary. That set up will take me out to 600 and is limited more by the terminal ballistics of the lead pill and not the optics.


I'm right there with you, I have an SWFA, I have "basic" vx2 207s 3-9s and everything in between from LEupold vx5 and recently a Vortex Razor HD LH but I often just use a vx3i 2.5-8 with a basic reticle or a meopta meopro 3-9.
 
Burris FF E1 is an easy choice over Leupold.
Much better glass and construction.
I wouldn’t own a hunting scope that wouldn’t go down to 3x. The field of view gets narrow quickly as you increase power.
were you meaning the Burris that's made in the Phillipines ? FYI, Burris is no longer it's own name and are off-shore products - for a BUDGET MINDED shooter or hunter there are still a lot of choices - I use only Leupolds because 1) they are ALL AMERICAN made 2) they INVENTED the lightweight scope that will stay together when you are out in the backcountry and a lifetime warranty does absolutely no good BUT when you take a Leupold to the factory (in BEAVERTON, OREGON) they ask what your complaint or concern is then take your scope and completely disassemble it, check EVERYTHING then give it back to you, NO CHARGE with a report of what they checked and what the condition of EACH component was before correction or replacement - I "think" Vortex does the same but Vortex scopes are heavier by a pretty significant margin if I'm not mistaken - Leupold treats each and every level of scope the same, no matter what you paid even if is was preowned - there are "better" scopes (maybe) but not near that price range - and for those who "dial", IMO, that's not normally "hunting" … "THAT'S shooting" - Since 1971 and 100's of game taken all over NA, 98% with Leupold optics, 00 in the field breakages or failures, for me as well as anyone who was with me, THAT IS FACT - OH, and the "down to 3x" thing ….. 2.5x, 3x, 3.5x, 4x all are pretty wide FOV's and more than adequate for acquisition of sight picture and fast shooting (IN one heck of a lot of shooters' OPINION)
 
I'm right there with you, I have an SWFA, I have "basic" vx2 207s 3-9s and everything in between from LEupold vx5 and recently a Vortex Razor HD LH but I often just use a vx3i 2.5-8 with a basic reticle or a meopta meopro 3-9.

SS SWFA's are heavy but in a class mostly by themselves for all around quality
 
That’s not a 200$ setup, or easily found but Will leupold still put an m1 turret on an m8?

What’s the reticle selection?

The vx-iii 3.5-10 with an m1 has good reviews too yeah?


Used is usually $225 shipped, my last M1 was $125. Duplex is about the only thing worth messing with when going M1.

Shot plenty of M1’s 3.5’s. And a cds 6x42 as well. Good scopes, but can’t outperform SWFA. Other than being lighter.
 
Used is usually $225 shipped, my last M1 was $125. Duplex is about the only thing worth messing with when going M1.

Shot plenty of M1’s 3.5’s. And a cds 6x42 as well. Good scopes, but can’t outperform SWFA. Other than being lighter.
IF I said a Leupold scope could OUTPERFORM an SWFA I didn't catch myself, I would agree with that - Perform at the same level when NOT dialing, YES I will say that - I'll take a WIDE duplex or custom dots and not look back, OH ! I haven't looked back …..

Leupold goes by serial # now for what they will do in the custom shop (age of scope wise) M-8 6 x 36's are still in high demand - I have a VX3i 4.5 x 14 x 40mm that I can honestly say I'm not at all impressed with and 4 - VX3 3.5 x 10 x 40mm's, 2-custom dots, 2-WIDE duplex that will do everything and anything I'll ever need a rifle scope to do but then, about 500 yards is where I begin to judge if I want to shoot or stalk some more, usually the latter
 
Funny (and kind of sad) how controversial this thread became.

Smarter folks than I have recommended gear already but I am not sure anyone has asked the OP for more info.

When you say a beginner are you speaking for yourself or for a new youth shooter?

Also new shooter or new hunter? If you have bowhunted for years and now you are picking up a rifle it might be different.

If it’s for a new shooter & hunter I would personally avoid dials. Keep it simple and learn your holdovers to a few hundred yards.

I would go with a 3-9 personally. Nothing wrong with a fixed 6x My only argument against it is a few unexpected short range shots on elk bottoming out at 6x on my 6x24 made me dump it for something that started at 3.5x. It’s not a common occurrence but target acquisition between binoculars, rangefinder then scope can be tough at higher magnifications.

No matter what scope. The better tip above is shoot a lot at different ranges and positions. Once you have the rifle sighted in get off the bench and shoot off your pack, sticks, trees etc. you will miss more opportunities due to lack of practice and shooting from bad positions than you ever will from a scope failure.

I have only hunted for about ten years now and did not have any sort of mentors to learn from so I am only speaking from experience due to all the mistakes I have made. A great glassing spot and a steep hill is great until you actually find a buck and need to get prone, then realize you have no idea what or how you get into position to take the shot. I could have a 1/2 moa rifle with all the bells and I still would have never hit the side of a barn that day due to bad form and buck fever.


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I don't have experience with any very expensive optics, only in this price range (I've got a vortex crossfire 2, sig sauer whiskey 3 illuminated and leupold vx3i) all in 3x or 3.5. None of which have a ton of shots through them yet. I prefer the sig or the leupold due to not loving the BDC ret. If I had to only keep one, I'd choose the sig but it has the CDS and illuminated dot so it has more features than the leupold, it was also cheaper, on sale for 229 to my door. It really doesnt seem like you can wrong with a multitude of scopes in this range.
 
Sounds like you don't understand what "if" means.

Frankly, I don't know why the SWFA needs to weigh nearly 2x as much as the Leupold. Is there a good reason for that?

If this is even a serious question, I'm assuming the materials in the erector system are beefier to withstand wear and remain consistent. Since the 10x fixed swfa scope was a mil contract scope, I'm guessing it was built to meet requirements when first developed.

My tikka with a fixed 6, pic rail, and rings is 7lbs 11oz. That's light enough for me. If you require lighter, good, I dont care.
 
If this is even a serious question, I'm assuming the materials in the erector system are beefier to withstand wear and remain consistent. Since the 10x fixed swfa scope was a mil contract scope, I'm guessing it was built to meet requirements when first developed.

My tikka with a fixed 6, pic rail, and rings is 7lbs 11oz. That's light enough for me. If you require lighter, good, I dont care.
Sorry if asking serious questions about SWFA is somehow offensive. Not sure why it would be.

I can assume things too. Just looking for a real answer.
 
Sorry if asking serious questions about SWFA is somehow offensive. Not sure why it would be.

I can assume things too. Just looking for a real answer.


Was it serious? Gee let's see it's a 30mm tube, 30mils of adjustment, parallax adjustment, designed to dial consistantly. Ya why would it be 20oz? Since you dont know anything about them, I suggest you use "google", or call swfa and find out how they got the rights to the scope. Or just continue whatever it is you're doing.
 
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Yea, it was serious. No need to be a smart alek. 30mm tube certainly adds weight. I don't know about the adjustment or why anyone would need that much, but okay. Parallax adjustment would add several ounces.

No need to google when I have you! :D Thanks!
 
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