Tire Chains

treillw

treillw

WKR
Joined
Mar 31, 2017
Location
MT
Need some vbar chains for 37x12.5x17 tires.

Anything special to get on them to make them easier to install, etc? Just the cam lock ones and a set of rubber tensioners?

Any deals out there?

Thanks!
 
Craigslist in my area has hundreds of sets of light use chains.
Probably not in 37s.
I'm not so sure cam locks aren't a big crock of S
They always seem to pop loose, no matter how many times I re adjust, and I run rubber tensioner as well.
And with the added worry of loosing the tool I don't think I will buy cam locks again.

Far as features. There are a crap ton of options actually. Pretty mind blowing.
Most of what are offered is the lower priced 3/8 twisted round link. I think cost and ride are the primary considerations.

Then most of the options seem to lean towards durability, with some traction benefits.
Twisted square will bite more, ride harder.
V bar vs Studded.
Harded vs not.
Double link = twice as many cross bars.
And then they offer a 1/2" hardened offroad. But they are spendy AF

I ran chains significantly more this year then in past.

And I think my next set will probably be double cross bar, hardened.

I may end up with one set of offroad.

You may not want v bars for the front.
I don't really have room for that extra little bit on my tundra.

I have a set of the more economical 3/8 twisted round.
And put idk at least 300 miles or more elk hunting this yr.
And they probably be wore out after another of that use. And I can't believe I didn't break one this year. I did some real rallying.
 
Also make sure you really lay them out test fit.
I got lazy and only did a quick test fit.
I had much more length then I needed so like 4 links flinging around.
I also had a couple cross bars installed on the wrong side of the outer chain. If that makes since? What that equated to was a wierd twist that made it hard to get hooked up.
I also had to move the last cross bar back a link to really get the chains tight, because I was trying to hook to the same link that the cross bar was on.
I since re fitted. Got everything to a neutral position and moved back, cut down.
 
I've had good luck with the heavier duty ones from Murdocks if there is one near you. Haven't used them hard but they seem to be holding up well.
 
BlueJay Industrial in Hayden, ID offers great service, quality products and competitive pricing. They’re a pleasure to deal with.
 
I tend not to use the cam locks. I also carry multiple sets of rubber tensioners, pliers and a roll of tie wire with my chains.

All of mine are the Quality brand chains, but they are local to my area, so what I know and what’s available.
 
I made my own. I was hunting in MO and the area I was hunting had snow packed Ice on the rural roads with several hills. I could not find any chain sets for sale. So I went to hardware store and made some. I have used them several times and they work great. Just tie 4 of these through the tire.
20230105_103750.jpg
 
treillw said:

Anyone have experience with the studded chains? Seem more aggressive then v bars.

I have a pretty good amount of wheel well clearance with the wrangler.
Click to expand...
They work really well on icy, snowpacked roads. The v bars seem to do better in mud and deeper snow situations. I'm not a big fan of cam lock chains. When I buy a set, I get the size that my tires are in the upper section of their fit range. Dry fit them in your driveway and trim off the extra chain tail. When clearances are tight, you don't want a chain tail whipping around in there. After getting them as tight as I can, I’ll drive a couple hundred yards and retighten. After that they are usually good.
 
I want them for mountain roads. Almost exclusively for deep snow and mud getting into hunting spots.

Think I'm better off with the vbars over the studs? Blue Jay says that the studs are the most aggressive. That seems to fit the bill for me.

Vbars are street legal, but studs are not. I'll probably never use them on the street, so I don't really care about that. If I need to use them on the street, it will be and emergency and horrible enough that I'm not damaging the road.
 
treillw said:
I want them for mountain roads. Almost exclusively for deep snow and mud getting into hunting spots.

Think I'm better off with the vbars over the studs? Blue Jay says that the studs are the most aggressive. That seems to fit the bill for me.

Vbars are street legal, but studs are not. I'll probably never use them on the street, so I don't really care about that. If I need to use them on the street, it will be and emergency and horrible enough that I'm not damaging the road.
Click to expand...
I'm a pretty big proponent of buy once, cry once. You would be fine with the v bars but if you want the studs and they will give you peace of mind, I'd say get the studs.
 
First maybe I need to define mud. Mud is fine sediment with some clay and maybe fine sand and rock particles. In this situation those muddy boggy areas, chains can help for a while until you get high centered on the differential or in cases the belly pan. Mud doesn't stick to the tires for the most part.

The alternative is gumbo which is a hydrophobic clay formed from volcanic ash and some bentonitic clay (swelling) that grows on your tires like paint until you may reach a point where the wheel wells are completely filled or where some falls off and your truck will beat you to death while going sideways with little steering capabilities. Gumbo can create a mess with even tracked equipment. Chains just prolong a bad day.

In bad mud, chains may help but it depends on how much clay is in it. Clay tends to be a lubricant. I have seen a 5 yd dragline bucket stuck in the clay of a fault zone that 2 D9s couldn't move. If you are in a clay bog they won't help. If you are on a slimey or partially frozen road they may be critical.

I pull a horse trailer on snowpacked roads. No chains - no go.Glaze ice on a hill? No chains - you might not survive.

V-bars are good on ice. Heavy chains on snowpack work fine but you have to be careful. I have given up on little pickups. Many of them and chains are incompatable. I have threatened to put a chain on a tire on a horse trailer for control but have lucked out and lived without it so far.

In the days of two wheel drives the chains went on the rear. With four wheel drive the chains go on the front where the weight is. I have had to chain up on all fours but am always concerned on what is going to break and I drive a 1 ton diesel with positrac. Push it hard and something is gonna give.
 
Pony Soldier said:
First maybe I need to define mud. Mud is fine sediment with some clay and maybe fine sand and rock particles. In this situation those muddy boggy areas, chains can help for a while until you get high centered on the differential or in cases the belly pan. Mud doesn't stick to the tires for the most part.

The alternative is gumbo which is a hydrophobic clay formed from volcanic ash and some bentonitic clay (swelling) that grows on your tires like paint until you may reach a point where the wheel wells are completely filled or where some falls off and your truck will beat you to death while going sideways with little steering capabilities. Gumbo can create a mess with even tracked equipment. Chains just prolong a bad day.

In bad mud, chains may help but it depends on how much clay is in it. Clay tends to be a lubricant. I have seen a 5 yd dragline bucket stuck in the clay of a fault zone that 2 D9s couldn't move. If you are in a clay bog they won't help. If you are on a slimey or partially frozen road they may be critical.

I pull a horse trailer on snowpacked roads. No chains - no go.Glaze ice on a hill? No chains - you might not survive.

V-bars are good on ice. Heavy chains on snowpack work fine but you have to be careful. I have given up on little pickups. Many of them and chains are incompatable. I have threatened to put a chain on a tire on a horse trailer for control but have lucked out and lived without it so far.

In the days of two wheel drives the chains went on the rear. With four wheel drive the chains go on the front where the weight is. I have had to chain up on all fours but am always concerned on what is going to break and I drive a 1 ton diesel with positrac. Push it hard and something is gonna give.
Click to expand...
A lot of the newer trucks don't have the clearance in the front for chains. Although with a 4wd, that is where the first set should go.
 
I may be the odd one out, but we run a lot of chains at work on pickups, trucks and telehandlers. Quality brand square link camlocks have seemed to be the best. Throw away the camlock tool they give you and fab a good sturdy long handled tool to get some purchase and get things tight. I keep a compact floor jack in the truck toolbox and will jack each corner up and get them bitch tight if shits going to get real. always zip tie the tails back to a link against the sidewalls. I only run snubbers if I can't jack each corner up.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

J
Tire chains on newer 1/2 ton trucks
2
Replies
27
Views
1K
jtevanMT
J
woods89
Tell me about tire chains-4th gen 4runner
Replies
17
Views
898
cuerro viejo
C
Legend
Yet again...Tire talk
2 3
Replies
45
Views
2K
Stache Attack
Stache Attack
ForkieLivesMatter
Mountain Truck setups
2 3
Replies
53
Views
4K
.204smokechaser
.204smokechaser
B
Recommend me an ATV tire
Replies
6
Views
349
03mossy
03mossy

Latest posts

Featured Video

Stats

Threads
325,410
Messages
3,419,488
Members
75,542
Latest member
Idahoeyes

Latest Articles

Back
Top