Too many knife options... Which one?

[jlaner0408]

There’s a reason Mora’s keep popping up in this conversation- there’s something to be said about a $15 knife that will do what you need. And then if (when) you lose it on a mountain in the dark, you’re not going to be too upset. It will do everything you need for a fraction of the cost. And you can spend the 100+ extra dollars on something else you want to upgrade

 

[boom]

There’s a reason Mora’s keep popping up in this conversation- there’s something to be said about a $15 knife that will do what you need. And then if (when) you lose it on a mountain in the dark, you’re not going to be too upset. It will do everything you need for a fraction of the cost. And you can spend the 100+ extra dollars on something else you want to upgrade

My friend shot a big hog that was bathing himself in a mud pit. Personally I would have waited for it to come out of the mud.....

I was about to stick my Adventure Sworn into that muddy beast and I waffled. No way! Out came the mora. Mud crust will destroy a knife edge. Moras are the 4x4’s of the knife world. You’ll take them anywhere.

 

[Brad@Argali]

I've recently been considering spending anywhere from $100-$170 on a fixed blade knife. I'm gonna use it for skinning and neat care. Obviously looking to get the most bang for my buck, what's your opinion?

The options I'm considering are

1- Kestrel Mountain Caper. I love the idea of this knife as it's S90V for cheaper ($130) but I don't like how small it is.

2- Kestrel Skeleton Ovis Hunter. Really leaning towards this knife. Seems high quality S35VN for cheap ($110). I like the blade size, length, and thickness. Seems to be about perfect but haven't found a ton of information about it.

3- Esee Izula. This is about as cheap as it goes. ($70) Considering it but doubt full bout it. Seems like a great little knife, similar to the Ovis Hunter?

4-Benchmade. This is a broad sprectrum but open to benchmade. Wouldn't spend more than $200 for a Benchmade. Is their quality better than Kestrel. Is it worth paying premium for the name?

5- Tyto Fannin. This knife intrigues me. Not much out there on it but it seems to be a competitor to Kestrel. Price is relatively decent ($130) and seems to be a quality knife.


These are some of my options. I would love to hear reviews and your opinions on any of knives you have that you would recommend. It's mostly for meat care and working deer/elk but I prefer a little thinker spine.

Sent from my PH-1 using Tapatalk

Those are all good blades, but in my incredibly biased opinion, I'd put our new blade on your radar too, the Argali Carbon Knife. Best of luck on your quest!

 

[Ashy Larry]

I’ve built a custom Buck Ranger 113 in s30v probably 5 times but never hit “add to cart” at the end. I’ll probably do it before this upcoming season. For a hiking blade I’m curious in the Benchmade Hidden Canyon because I like the blade shape and the horizontal sheath carry.

 

[a_noob_hunter]

Those are all good blades, but in my incredibly biased opinion, I'd put our new blade on your radar too, the Argali Carbon Knife. Best of luck on your quest!

Wow beautiful knife. I will definitely consider it if I don't like the Kestrel. Tbh I would probably have bought the argali if the Kestrel wouldn't have been $50 off. $40 more for a handle and same quality I would have been willing to spend, but $90 is quite a bit. Will definitely keep in mind!

Sent from my PH-1 using Tapatalk

 

[Milestone522]

View attachment 102389I have a bunch of high budget knives, but this is too simple and effective. Swiss army sharp, a blade that cuts from the underside of the hide to eliminate hair cuts, a bone saw like a leatherman but longer, tweezers and a toothpick.

I've since gone to the camillus sharpener with the ceramic, carbide and such in a light package.

This very knife has been through at least 30 elk and 10 bears.....and a ton of deer.

The blade gets laughed at by some....until they see it in action. It's longer than the typical swiss.....and sharp.

I use a similar Swiss Army knife, the Hunter XT in orange. Has three blades, two of which are saw blades. Was a gift from a friend in Switzerland so it has a corkscrew instead of a screwdriver, but it has been flawless for me in the field.

 

[come2elmo]

Not sexy or Bozeman cool but used by a crap ton of people who cut up animals for a living

45 bucks of the best money you can spend.

Victorinox Boning, 6" Straight, Narrow, Stiff, Rosewood Handle

 

[excaliber]

I'm not a knife expert as I've owned quite a few knifes over the years. Buck knifes, Gerber Knives, SOG etc.
None of them hold a candle to this little 3" blade knife my Ex Father in Law gave me back in 1994. This knife will still be holding it's edge as every other knife has to be sharpened twice in the field to keep up.

It looks like a Buck Knife copy but the Japanese steel on it is incredible.

On one side it says it's a
Jet Aer Corp.
Patterson NJ
The other side says G-98 Brand
No 7001
Made In Japan.
Even after trying to ruin it out in the field with a carbide sharpener it's still the best knife I've ever owned.

If anyone knows where to find any of these please let me know. I'd like to have a few more.

 

[thinhorn_AK]

I like to have a combination of a fixed blade knife and a replaceable scalpel blade. Last year I took a Havalon piranha, just the basic orange one and a Benchmade hidden canyon hunter, I had no trouble getting a moose taken apart with that combo.

I especially liked the replaceable blade knife for anything involving the hair/Hyde as that seems to really take the edge off blades with the quickness.

 

[HuntWyld]

The Iron will K1 knife is pretty badass. 1 oz and it’s strong and holds a great edge!

What about the sharpened back edge on this knife? Seems like a great little knife but that is my one hang up, I often run my index finger up the backside of the blade for control and also when gutting to protect the point from puncturing the ponch. I could see the sharp back edge getting a bit sketchy when slick with blood

 

[a_noob_hunter]

What about the sharpened back edge on this knife? Seems like a great little knife but that is my one hang up, I often run my index finger up the backside of the blade for control and also when gutting to protect the point from puncturing the ponch. I could see the sharp back edge getting a bit sketchy when slick with blood

Yeah that's my concern as well running the Kestrel Ovis Hunter. It doesn't have the jimping on the spine near the tip, not a deal breaker but nice to have for skinning/meat cutting

Sent from my PH-1 using Tapatalk

 

[Trial153]

A sharpened top edge is a no go for me.

 

[Trial153]

The Kifaru offering is sweet little ultra light fixed blade. It's less the 3 oz with the Krydex.

A step above most everything mentioned is Charles May Necker....he will build it in D2 or s30v which ever you perfer. I have it in s30v and it's a great light weight option. Last talked to Charlie he is about a year out on his builds. I buy a knife off him every year and get back in line..

 

[Dinger]

Not sexy or Bozeman cool but used by a crap ton of people who cut up animals for a living

45 bucks of the best money you can spend.

Victorinox Boning, 6" Straight, Narrow, Stiff, Rosewood Handle

I agree...I have a shelves of 'hunting' knives collecting dust. If I'm on a planned meat mission when multiple animals will hit the deck or I'm day hunting, then the 5" boning knife gets the job done faster than anything else. I should really pack it everywhere or make a LW version for the back country.

The sheath is just some 1" ag pipe heat molded in shape. The clip allows it to hang of my belt loop so I can keep the knife off the ground when I need two free hands.
All up cost was about $25 and it's easy to field sanitise the knife and sheath with boiling water if needed.

It's not a sexy set up and I think I might buy a https://argalioutdoors.com/collections/knives/products/carbon-knife just because they look cool and are lighter for multi day back country trips. I'm still chasing something functional that I can leave on my body with a pack on. I'll take the hit on function for compactness and weight....but I'm sure at some point when I'm bent over a 600lb Sambar (Aus) roped up on a steep slope, I'll be wishing I hadn't left the full sized meat slicer at home.

 

[fwafwow]

I know you said that you aren't in a hurry to get one, but just keep in mind that the Kestrel Skeleton Ovis Hunter is taking a while to get delivered. I ordered one 4/30 and am still waiting.

 

[a_noob_hunter]

I know you said that you aren't in a hurry to get one, but just keep in mind that the Kestrel Skeleton Ovis Hunter is taking a while to get delivered. I ordered one 4/30 and am still waiting.

Yeah I noticed that. I'm pretty sure it'll be here by hunting time. I don't need it right away but wanted a good sharp knife. Kinda tempted to buy a few other ones to see if I like em

Sent from my PH-1 using Tapatalk

 

[Wirrex]

I agree...I have a shelves of 'hunting' knives collecting dust. If I'm on a planned meat mission when multiple animals will hit the deck or I'm day hunting, then the 5" boning knife gets the job done faster than anything else. I should really pack it everywhere or make a LW version for the back country.

The sheath is just some 1" ag pipe heat molded in shape. The clip allows it to hang of my belt loop so I can keep the knife off the ground when I need two free hands.
All up cost was about $25 and it's easy to field sanitise the knife and sheath with boiling water if needed.

It's not a sexy set up and I think I might buy a https://argalioutdoors.com/collections/knives/products/carbon-knife just because they look cool and are lighter for multi day back country trips. I'm still chasing something functional that I can leave on my body with a pack on. I'll take the hit on function for compactness and weight....but I'm sure at some point when I'm bent over a 600lb Sambar (Aus) roped up on a steep slope, I'll be wishing I hadn't left the full sized meat slicer at home.

I carried my victorinox boning knife with me all last season in a kydex sheath I made. My izula never leaves my side. I use the pair to butcher all my game in the field. It is nice to have one knife to skin and make cuts that dull the blade (izula) and one to do the rest (boner). I don’t see myself ever leaving the boning knife behind.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Wmmichael20]

I, like the rest of you have collected a small pile of sharp objects over the years and like some of you I have a moral in each of my packs,and a Leatherman rebar on my hip at all times,and depending on my mood either an old school buck 110...love the feel of it in the hand,a victorinox Swiss army tinker...had since I was 9, a buck pack lite set...gift from work, and pocket knives from spiderco, Kershaw,case,buck, and a few old timers.

 

[Woodrow F Call]

I think that sometimes we get way too involved with the details and agonize over something that really is easier than we make it.

I'm a knife guy, I have way more knives than I need. I got a couple of thoughts that I hope will help you.

1. Learn to sharpen a knife. It doesn't have to slice a single hair into 15 strands... you don't even need a 1000 grit stone. When I finally figured out how this stuff worked, I was using a DMT aligner and a lighted, hand held microscope to look at the edge. It really made me realize how much work it took to "reshape" a bevel..... You need a stone that will remove whatever steel your knife is made with and coarse is good enough for field work.

2. Long lasting super steel knives might be hard to sharpen or reshape.

3. Smaller knives can be really just fine for skinning out and parting an animal. I've used a Case Sod Buster Junior to quarter up white tail just fine..... That thin sharp blade works great. Just mind your knife handling as a slip joint could close on your fingers if handled improperly.

Finally, my recommendation:

Get a Mora Companion.... Maybe the Companion Heavy Duty if you think a thicker blade might be useful.

1. Light weight
2. Sharp
3. Good steel and easy to sharpen
4. $20 great quality knife
5. The plastic sheath is actually a great design that drains water and protects the knife
6. Comfortable handle for long hours of meat processing
7. 4 inch blade which is an all around great length for meat processing
8. Drop point blade which is probably the all around best shape with exception maybe for the spear point

The only drawbacks are:
1. It's not a full tang knife, but they tend to be pretty reliable anyways
2. More bulky than a skeleton type knife

The only questions to answer is do you want stainless or carbon steel. I like carbon, but it's really for people that like carbon.... The stainless would be a better general purpose choice.

Moras come from Sweden, where they hunt big animals. The company knows how to make a knife.

 

[a_noob_hunter]

I think that sometimes we get way too involved with the details and agonize over something that really is easier than we make it.

I'm a knife guy, I have way more knives than I need. I got a couple of thoughts that I hope will help you.

1. Learn to sharpen a knife. It doesn't have to slice a single hair into 15 strands... you don't even need a 1000 grit stone. When I finally figured out how this stuff worked, I was using a DMT aligner and a lighted, hand held microscope to look at the edge. It really made me realize how much work it took to "reshape" a bevel..... You need a stone that will remove whatever steel your knife is made with and coarse is good enough for field work.

2. Long lasting super steel knives might be hard to sharpen or reshape.

3. Smaller knives can be really just fine for skinning out and parting an animal. I've used a Case Sod Buster Junior to quarter up white tail just fine..... That thin sharp blade works great. Just mind your knife handling as a slip joint could close on your fingers if handled improperly.

Finally, my recommendation:

Get a Mora Companion.... Maybe the Companion Heavy Duty if you think a thicker blade might be useful.

1. Light weight
2. Sharp
3. Good steel and easy to sharpen
4. $20 great quality knife
5. The plastic sheath is actually a great design that drains water and protects the knife
6. Comfortable handle for long hours of meat processing
7. 4 inch blade which is an all around great length for meat processing
8. Drop point blade which is probably the all around best shape with exception maybe for the spear point

The only drawbacks are:
1. It's not a full tang knife, but they tend to be pretty reliable anyways
2. More bulky than a skeleton type knife

The only questions to answer is do you want stainless or carbon steel. I like carbon, but it's really for people that like carbon.... The stainless would be a better general purpose choice.

Thank you for the input. I've heard enough about the Mora I think I'm gonna buy one. I'm terrible at sharpening with a wetstone but I have the proper grit to learn. I'll probably play around with it and try to learn good techniques for sharpening. Maybe use it more for deboning and trimming than out in the field

Sent from my PH-1 using Tapatalk