Prime Centergy fit issues

[Boxerboxer]

I shot this video tonight of me taking a shot with my centergy:

It's got 60lb limbs currently maxed at 62.7lbs. It's set at my draw length of 29" per AMO measurement spec. Just got peep set to the correct height and served in tonight. Nock point at at straight through the Berger hole, arrow level with string plumb. Shooting a Carter Simple 1.

My problem now is that I can't get my nose anywhere near the string without either anchoring what feels like way too far back or dipping my head really low.

I am also a little high on the poundage but am working on several exercises to remedy that. It's already better than it was, and this was shot right after a hard run.

Any advice you can give on form, getting things adjusted, etc would be greatly appreciated.

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[Don Qui Puncher]

does DL feel short to you, did you measure on draw board? which cams are they the 2 or 3? also the centergy and ct series like to run nock high and level off the riser not string with them I guess its because of the 2 different size cams, I did the same thing as you setting up my hybrid and couldn't get it to bareshaft tune at all unless I ran the rest down, everywhere I read and the prime shops I talked to said level of the riser and up to a 1/4 nock high. mine are 1/8 & 3/16ths high. hope that helps

 

[Boxerboxer]

does DL feel short to you, did you measure on draw board? which cams are they the 2 or 3? also the centergy and ct series like to run nock high and level off the riser not string with them I guess its because of the 2 different size cams, I did the same thing as you setting up my hybrid and couldn't get it to bareshaft tune at all unless I ran the rest down, everywhere I read and the prime shops I talked to said level of the riser and up to a 1/4 nock high. mine are 1/8 & 3/16ths high. hope that helps

I'm on a #3 cam. Draw length is 29" measured on draw board. It doesn't feel obviously long but this is my first right handed bow and I'm not sure I have a good feel for what's long/short.

RE the tuning stuff I've heard that as well, but I'm not going to mess with trying to tune till I've got form/anchors good to go.

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[eltaco]

I would definitely recommend extending draw length at least 1/2” based on the video. As you mentioned, the string is well in front of your nose and you would have to make some negative adjustments to try and reach it. The next detail that indicates DL is too short is your back forearm. Note from the video it is canted down towards the ground, though your bow arm is mostly level. Extending your DL will help to bring that arm back to horizontal. Your anchor should come back and the string will come into your nose.

I can’t help on the Prime tuning aspects, but seems like you got some good advice above.

Try 1/2” long and maybe even 1” longer and post another video if you want. It would be interesting to see the change.

 

[Billy Goat]

Looks to me like you need another 3/4" of draw length. Similar to what others have said.

One thing I noticed in talking about your form, when you went to shoot downward it looked like you dropped your arm. Need to bend a little more at the waist. If you get better anchors you will probably notice that more.

Never tuned or shot a prime so no help otherwise.

 

[fatlander]

I think your form is your problem. We can’t see your whole body but it looks like you’re leaning back instead of standing straight up a down. Your bow arm is locked out straight and you’re a little over bowed so you’re compensating by leaning back to stay in the valley.

Personally, I think you need to drop that draw weight to about 52, work on your form then work it back up.


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[Boxerboxer]

Looks to me like you need another 3/4" of draw length. Similar to what others have said.

One thing I noticed in talking about your form, when you went to shoot downward it looked like you dropped your arm. Need to bend a little more at the waist. If you get better anchors you will probably notice that more.

Never tuned or shot a prime so no help otherwise.

You're right on regarding not bending at the waist. Meant to mention that in the original post. I'll try the longer DL and see how it goes.

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[Boxerboxer]

I think your form is your problem. We can’t see your whole body but it looks like you’re leaning back instead of standing straight up a down. Your bow arm is locked out straight and you’re a little over bowed so you’re compensating by leaning back to stay in the valley.

Personally, I think you need to drop that draw weight to about 52, work on your form then work it back up.


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That's fair. I know I don't need to go THAT low to easily pull, but if I'm really getting form right before worrying about tunei might as well.

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[Billy Goat]

Try taking a video or picture from above and behind. It will show your arms better.

 

[Boxerboxer]

Will do that tonight after dropping some draw weight and increasing draw length.

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[Boxerboxer]

Haven't messed with draw length yet, probably better to change one thing at a time. Dropped down to 56lbs.

Here are a couple more shots with more of me visible.

When I anchor where it feels right, with my jaw splitting my index and middle finger I can't get nose to string without a big dip of the head. I can anchor further back and kinda get nose to string but it feels like I'm too far back and string is not in the corner of my mouth, also too much facial pressure.

After thinking about it to I'm not sure how longer draw helps that since I already feel too far back with nose to string. Maybe I'm wrong there, I don't know. I'm actually at 29 1/4", so slightly longer than expected based on fist against the wall, measuring perpendicular from wall to corner of mouth.

This is really frustrating.

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[fatlander]

Try drawing the bow with your eyes closed, anchor where you’re comfortable and see where your head is. That’s how I always set peep height and fine tune the draw length on a new bow or after a string change.

Also, which prime is that; is it the ct3? The string angle might just be too steep at your drawlength.


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[Boxerboxer]

Try drawing the bow with your eyes closed, anchor where you’re comfortable and see where your head is. That’s how I always set peep height and fine tune the draw length on a new bow or after a string change.

Also, which prime is that; is it the ct3? The string angle might just be too steep at your drawlength.


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It's not a logic, it's a Centergy. 33 1/4" ATA, 29 1/4" draw. Peep height is good.

As for fine tuning DL, how are you deciding if where you naturally end up with eyes closed is right or not?

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[fatlander]

It's not a logic, it's a Centergy. 33 1/4" ATA, 29 1/4" draw. Peep height is good.

As for fine tuning DL, how are you deciding if where you naturally end up with eyes closed is right or not?

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1.) close your eyes
2.) draw your bow
3.) come to your naturally comfortable anchor
4.) open your eyes
5.) If your draw length is right, set peep height
6.) If draw length is wrong, twist/untwist cables and/or move draw stops, then repeat steps 1-5 until it’s right


If your draw length isn’t right. Your peep height can’t be right


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[Boxerboxer]

1.) close your eyes
2.) draw your bow
3.) come to your naturally comfortable anchor
4.) open your eyes
5.) If your draw length is right, set peep height
6.) If draw length is wrong, twist/untwist cables and/or move draw stops, then repeat steps 1-5 until it’s right


If your draw length isn’t right. Your peep height can’t be right


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Fair point RE: peep height. Are you adjusting draw length based at all on this blind draw? If so, how? I get what you're doing with the peep once draw is good, but how are you deciding draw length is "right"?

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[fatlander]

Fair point RE: peep height. Are you adjusting draw length based at all on this blind draw? If so, how? I get what you're doing with the peep once draw is good, but how are you deciding draw length is "right"?

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It’s all by feel. There is “perfect textbook” form and then there is what is most comfortable and repeatable. You can torque the snot out of your bow and be 2” too long on the draw, but if you repeat it perfectly every time it doesn’t matter. Look at Reo Wilde.

I think you’re moving your head around so much because you already have your peep tied and you’re adjusting to it. Also looking at your latest viedo, when you come to full draw you actually move your head back away from the aim string. Which makes you think you’re dropping your head a ton. When in reality, your head was good when you were comfortable before you moved your head.

That gets me back to drawing with you eyes closed and just coming to what feels right. Take a video, I bet your head doesn’t move back or bob all around because you’re not looking to the peep for reference.


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[Billy Goat]

I have never worried about my nose and where it is in relation to the string. Lots of people of course like the string to be on the tip of the nose. Like flatlander mentioned I set my peep by drawing with my eyes closed, getting my anchor and settling in, then open my eyes. Move peep up or down and tweak draw length a little for left and right. My anchor is my knuckles in the back of my jawbone.

Curious how you look from behind. Is your bow arm slightly bent? I can't tell if your elbow is locked or not from the video. Where is your draw arm in relation to your bow arm? Is your elbow in or out? Something looks off with the videos put I can't really tell what it is. Thought you needed longer draw, but that might not be it.

 

[Boxerboxer]

It’s all by feel. There is “perfect textbook” form and then there is what is most comfortable and repeatable. You can torque the snot out of your bow and be 2” too long on the draw, but if you repeat it perfectly every time it doesn’t matter. Look at Reo Wilde.

I think you’re moving your head around so much because you already have your peep tied and you’re adjusting to it. Also looking at your latest viedo, when you come to full draw you actually move your head back away from the aim string. Which makes you think you’re dropping your head a ton. When in reality, your head was good when you were comfortable before you moved your head.

That gets me back to drawing with you eyes closed and just coming to what feels right. Take a video, I bet your head doesn’t move back or bob all around because you’re not looking to the peep for reference.

The head movement was maybe partly peep-related, but moreso because I was trying to somehow get the string to hit the corner of my mouth and the tip of my nose, all without having to excessivly dip my head forward or anchor way back toward the back of the jawbone (back edge of the jawbone between index and middle knuckles, instead of bottom edge.

The other thing I may have going on is a long d-loop. I'm sure that's not my whole problem, but it's between 1 and 1 1/8", which seems excessive.

 

[Boxerboxer]

I have never worried about my nose and where it is in relation to the string. Lots of people of course like the string to be on the tip of the nose. Like flatlander mentioned I set my peep by drawing with my eyes closed, getting my anchor and settling in, then open my eyes. Move peep up or down and tweak draw length a little for left and right. My anchor is my knuckles in the back of my jawbone.

Curious how you look from behind. Is your bow arm slightly bent? I can't tell if your elbow is locked or not from the video. Where is your draw arm in relation to your bow arm? Is your elbow in or out? Something looks off with the videos put I can't really tell what it is. Thought you needed longer draw, but that might not be it.

I meant to get some pictures or video from the back last night and forgot. I'll try to get something tonight. It doesn't feel like I'm anything but straight back, but pictures don't lie. I'm already 1/4" past the draw length I get putting my fist on the wall and measuring to the corner of my mouth, but that's just an estimate, I guess. I wish there was a shop in town I trusted a little more.

 

[OR Archer]

That loop is a mile long. Shorten that thing up and it should help.