Which 1 ton pickup

OP
Wrangler13
Joined
Sep 25, 2016
Messages
386
Location
VT
Trailer is a car hauler bumper pull. Having been pulling with my tundra but just can’t load 10k on there safely. Pretty set on gas as there’s no elevation here in the northeast. No fans of gmc/Chevy?
 

Fatcamp

WKR
Joined
May 31, 2017
Messages
5,678
Location
Sodak
Trailer is a car hauler bumper pull. Having been pulling with my tundra but just can’t load 10k on there safely. Pretty set on gas as there’s no elevation here in the northeast. No fans of gmc/Chevy?
We used GM 3/4 ton trucks at my previous job. Rode hard with lots of weight, fast speeds, and lots of miles. Not sure why I still drive Ford's.
 
Joined
Mar 11, 2017
Messages
754
I have a brand new gasser F-250 4x4 for work. The thing sucks...
it’s gutless going up hills and gets terrible mileage.

My personal diesel is mucho better.
 

2five7

WKR
Joined
Jul 15, 2017
Messages
664
I have a brand new gasser F-250 4x4 for work. The thing sucks...
it’s gutless going up hills and gets terrible mileage.

My personal diesel is mucho better.
6.2 with 3.73 gears? Definitely an underwhelming combo. Now, the 7.3 with 4.30's is in a whole different universe.

OP, as far as towing with HD gas trucks, Fords new 7.3 really has no competition.
 
Joined
Jul 17, 2018
Messages
1,296
Location
NW Arkansas
Ha, ha, IDK but no bs. I bought the truck new in ‘03 and just changed the batteries out last year for the first time. It’s always been garage kept but I work 12 hour shifts at a hospital and it’s never plugged in when I’m at work. For four years I worked night shift and there were many winter nights that got down to close to -30° and it always fired right up the next morning.
The stock lift pump went out at around 60,000 miles which was covered under the warranty, lost my first transmission at just over 70,000 and warranty went ahead and covered that one as well, then lost my second transmission at around 200,000, hence the reason why I wish I would’ve bought the manual. Also had a couple injectors go bad at around 150,000 or so, but other than those problems, nothing else. It’s my daily driver and basically no rust to speak of either. The only rust is a little bit of surface rust on the bottom of the tailgate.
3ee687388125528412e65b52d6f7a323.jpg

0c92caaa4a209bb2c23bf48e5cb28108.jpg

77d056d06c1ec31780bf69397660a9ab.jpg

973ee032dd53706b7bc9b4b187efba2e.jpg



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
My Dad had a 2004 and now he has a 2006. Both manuals. It is crazy that those batteries lasted that long. Great trucks for sure
 
Joined
May 6, 2018
Messages
8,951
Location
Shenandoah Valley
^^^this! I bought a new Dodge 1 ton diesel back in ‘03, and my only regret is that I didn’t get the manual transmission. If I had it to do all over again I would buy roughly the same truck with the manual six speed. I think it was in ‘08 where everything changed with having to add def, etc., so I probably wouldn’t buy anything newer than that. I don’t think that I’d want a new diesel with the way they are being made today.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


I have an '01 that went 13-14 years on the original batteries. Can't remember exactly now. It was the first of the 6 speed. That transmission got replaced at 60k. I spent a long time not wanting an auto, after doing a dual mass flywheel delete in several different trucks, then finally giving and getting auto for no other choice....

I realized I was an idiot all those years.

Those early millennium trucks the autos were terrible, but they have made some leaps and bounds. I had a fully deleted '11 ctd one ton dually and even with the extra power it had it didn't pull like this '17 does, and it's bone stock. Need to be careful tho, out of warranty now. It will crap out tomorrow.
 

Nealm66

Lil-Rokslider
Joined
Jan 14, 2020
Messages
241
Location
Western Washington
When I was debating trucks I went with the one that had the least amount of depreciation after 5 years and read through the hot shot forums. About due to trade in and tracking well although probably the last truck before I retire and wondering I shouldn’t hold off and see what comes out in the electric side.
 

204guy

WKR
Joined
Mar 4, 2013
Messages
1,292
Location
WY
Buffinnut pretty well nailed it above.

I can speak to this a bit as I've used both.
Personal truck is a 13' 3500 SRW duramax.
Current work truck is a 20' 6.6 gas 3500 SRW chevy 6spd tranny.
Old work truck was 12' dodge 2500 w/ the 5.7 hemi. Avoid that motor at all costs.

6.6 GM gas does pretty good pulling on flat stuff. I've pulled 11-12K with it and it does way better than the old gassers. It'll run 75 on the interstate without the constant downshifting that'll drive you nuts. It's not a diesel though, period. Biggest drawback by far is no engine brake. With an 11k trailer going downhill and wanting to run a comfortable 45-55 mph into turns 3rd will not hold you back and 2nd will about redline the motor. With the gas you have to use your brakes way more than I like or you have to go way slower than is needed to save your brakes. I thought I might be interested in getting one of the newer big gasser's either the 6.6 or 7.3. I'm grateful my work provided me with one before I took the leap. I know have zero desire to get one. I pretty often pull around 15k in the summer camping and if you pay attention and are on top of your shifting the diesel does fine going down steep grades. I now know the gas would suck balls...
 

JLane330

Lil-Rokslider
Joined
Apr 21, 2020
Messages
242
Location
Albuquerque, NM
For what it's worth, my stock GM batteries lasted 12 years, which I thought was pretty awesome. I figured it was the exception, but seems others have had even better service out of other brands.

My 2014 Ram 4x4 CC Cummins/Auto got 12mpg towing my 28' toyhauler. Traded it for a 2019 Ram 2500 6.4hemi w 8speed auto CC 4x4 and it got 6-7mpg towing the same trailer. The only advantages my gas truck had over the diesel was lower upfront cost, cheaper maintenance, slightly lighter weight so more payload & better off road & tires last longer. Diesel pulls so much better and uses less fuel. When I completely retire I'll buy a new diesel w the longest most comprehensive extended warranty I can find and a new 5th wheel toyhauler.
This is interesting and helpful feedback comparing the Cummins to the Hemi. I'm surprised by your Cummins mileage towing as my GF's '12 (deleted) only manages 9.5-10.5 mpg (hand calc) towing her 22 ft toyhauler. I'm always surprised it's so low. My buddy's parents have a similar truck with the 6.4 Hemi, but tow a lighter TT and get 8-9mpg traveling in similar areas, but their camper is a little lighter. Good to see a direct comparison with the same trailer.

Buffinnut pretty well nailed it above.

I can speak to this a bit as I've used both.
Personal truck is a 13' 3500 SRW duramax.
Current work truck is a 20' 6.6 gas 3500 SRW chevy 6spd tranny.
Old work truck was 12' dodge 2500 w/ the 5.7 hemi. Avoid that motor at all costs.

6.6 GM gas does pretty good pulling on flat stuff. I've pulled 11-12K with it and it does way better than the old gassers. It'll run 75 on the interstate without the constant downshifting that'll drive you nuts. It's not a diesel though, period. Biggest drawback by far is no engine brake. With an 11k trailer going downhill and wanting to run a comfortable 45-55 mph into turns 3rd will not hold you back and 2nd will about redline the motor. With the gas you have to use your brakes way more than I like or you have to go way slower than is needed to save your brakes. I thought I might be interested in getting one of the newer big gasser's either the 6.6 or 7.3. I'm grateful my work provided me with one before I took the leap. I know have zero desire to get one. I pretty often pull around 15k in the summer camping and if you pay attention and are on top of your shifting the diesel does fine going down steep grades. I now know the gas would suck balls...
This is also very helpful. I've been surprised by the no engine braking comments here and elsewhere, and don't understand it. A gasser shouldn't need an exhaust brake as it has a throttle body to restrict air thru the engine... so maybe it's a function of the transmission instead. My '06 Dmax van has a 4L85E trans and does not have engine braking, and it's because of the transmission (I forget exactly why). The Allison definitely has excellent engine braking, same with the '12 Cummins 6 sp. The new 6.6L GM gasser looks like a great engine, but by backing it with the 6L90, maybe it's similar to my 4L85 and can't engine brake?
 

Buzby

WKR
Joined
Jul 3, 2019
Messages
386
Look at commercial vehicles. Ambulances, tow trucks, etc. They’re almost all Fords.
 
Joined
Oct 24, 2015
Messages
1,550
Location
W. Wa
I've been debating the gas vs diesel thing lately. I have an '06 Duramax Van with fairly low miles (99k) and tow fairly light (wakeboat, utility trailers, etc). GF has a '12 Ram Cummins that we use to tow heavy (Toyhauler, gooseneck with skid steer, etc).
Talking a good friend who owns both gas and diesel versions of the same truck (2012 Ram), he prefers the gas. He tows a big 5th toy hauler, not sure of actual weight, and says that he prefers the gas truck more and that it's towing mileage isn't much worse than the diesel. His opinion is that the gasser has plenty of power, and he drives pretty fast.
This is similar to another friend who was a big diesel fan. His input was that the diesel is great until the EGT's get real high while towing up big mountains. He prefers his gasser motorhome to his diesel truck towing the 5th wheel.
I bought my Duramax for the fuel mileage. It's been pretty good overall, but there are several things working against diesel's these days:
- The EPA cracked down on deletes and mods a year or two ago. Good luck finding delete kits. Tunes may be affected to.
- The cost of a diesel engine on initial purchase is high. That pays for a lot of gas.
- Maintenance: Oil changes, fuel filters, etc adds up.
- Cost of fuel. Diesel is a good more expensive than regular gas, has been for quite a while now.
- DEF. While the fluid isn't necessarily expensive, the system is if it needs repair. This is why the '12 Ram's seem to be the sweet spot.
- Extra battery to replace, can be hard starting in the cold (I've never had an issue with my Duramax in below 0 weather without it plugged in, but am told the Duramax is the exception...not sure).
- Noise, although most new trucks are pretty quiet inside these days.
- Long term repair. This is a biggie! Injectors, injection pumps, head gaskets, etc can be ridiculous to repace!
- Unlikely to run veg oil or homemade biodiesel in any newer engine without major issues. Leave that to the old engines.
- Turbo maintenance/replacement/repair...
- Weight. They are heavy, and can tear up front ends, make it harder to get thru sand/mud, etc.
- Diesels don't like to sit (been told this over and over). Not really sure what to think about this... they don't like short trips for sure.

No doubt the torque out of a diesel is nice to drive, but the transmissions seem to hit and miss. The Allison has a great reputation on a stock truck. Depends on the 6sp in the Ram, there were two offered IIRC.

Please don't misunderstand, diesels can be great, but the EPA has really made them much less attractive the last 10-15 yrs. I'd love to tow heavy with a newer gasser to really see how they do. The difference in purchase and maintenance costs can pay for a lot of gas, if it's even more expensive given the price difference of the fuel.
This is the thing that kills me when it comes to people recommending diesels... yes, in OPs circumstances(and people who haul a lot of weight frequently) you can't beat a diesel.

The maintenance(double+ the oil, fuel filters) is a killer on its own... in some places the fuel prices are a wash, so you might be able to recoup some funds there. The biggest killer is the emissions - absolutely great when you don't have any problems. I work on heavy duty diesels for a living, the component costs for the entire after treatment system will eat up any "savings" you're making on fuel prices very quickly. DOC, DPF and SCR are extremely expensive on their own. ISBs are famous for clogged EGR ports and sooty mixing chambers/grid heater - which are a cinch to clean if you're the DIY type, but for the guys who don't have any tools its just another bill(and downtime). EGR coolers go out somewhat frequently as well, again another expense. VGT actuators are yet another common failure.

Again, if you haul a lot of weight frequently, a diesel is a must and I wouldn't argue that. For the guys who pull their camper once or twice a year, you're not going to realize many benefits over running a gasser. In fact, it'll be cheaper to run a good gasser once you factor in maintenance and repairs over the lifetime of the truck.
 

rob86jeep

WKR
Joined
Dec 19, 2017
Messages
611
Location
Georgia
Diesels are also a lot of fun. I had an 04 Cummins and it's probably my favorite vehicle i've ever had (and I only towed with it 1 time, but that 10k behind it felt like nothing). Some things are for need, some are for fun...
 

Buck197

WKR
Joined
Mar 29, 2020
Messages
383
Saw something from Consumer reports listing the least reliable full size pickups and it was the big 3, diesels. 2017 models and newer. Im sure folks can argue this, and will, but I think the newer diesels, sure they pull faster going down the highway, and if your running up and down mountains fully loaded alot, it's worthwhile, but the mileage was better a few years ago on these new ones I believe
 
Joined
Apr 22, 2012
Messages
7,417
Location
Chugiak, Alaska
So, here’s my take. If back in 2003, Toyota offered a true full size, crew cab, 1 ton diesel pick up, I would’ve bought one, and I’d probably still be driving it today. Now, that not being the case, I looked at the big three options that would best fit my needs and bought a Dodge/Cummins. My initial needs were something that would fit a small family (3 at that time, but eventually 4), be able to haul a 3000 lb. slide in camper, and tow a modest boat. This vehicle would also serve as my daily driver to and from work, etc. The fully loaded truck, with every option available at the time, ended up costing me just over $37,000. To date I have just over 250,000 miles on the vehicle, and aside from warranty repairs (lift pump and transmission), and general maintenance costs ie., brake jobs, oil/filter/fuel filter changes (every 10,000 miles), tires, and any other add-ons that were my choice, I have an additional, approx. $12,000-$14,000 into this truck currently. This includes another transmission, front end work, fuel injectors, and some minor electrical repairs. For the last 10 years, give or take, I’ve been averaging about $1000 a year in maintenance/repair costs. Whenever the thought crosses my mind to purchase a new truck, I consider replacement cost of around $70,000, give or take, and it makes no sense to me. If I continue to put $1000 a year into this vehicle, and continue to drive it for the next 18 years, at the rate I’m going, that’ll put me at around 500,000 miles, having owned it for about 36 years with an approx. total cost of $70,000 or an average of about $2,000/year, from new, not including insurance.

Please let me know if I’m missing something here, other than USB ports.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Joined
Oct 24, 2015
Messages
1,550
Location
W. Wa
So, here’s my take. If back in 2003, Toyota offered a true full size, crew cab, 1 ton diesel pick up, I would’ve bought one, and I’d probably still be driving it today. Now, that not being the case, I looked at the big three options that would best fit my needs and bought a Dodge/Cummins. My initial needs were something that would fit a small family (3 at that time, but eventually 4), be able to haul a 3000 lb. slide in camper, and tow a modest boat. This vehicle would also serve as my daily driver to and from work, etc. The fully loaded truck, with every option available at the time, ended up costing me just over $37,000. To date I have just over 250,000 miles on the vehicle, and aside from warranty repairs (lift pump and transmission), and general maintenance costs ie., brake jobs, oil/filter/fuel filter changes (every 10,000 miles), tires, and any other add-ons that were my choice, I have an additional, approx. $12,000-$14,000 into this truck currently. This includes another transmission, front end work, fuel injectors, and some minor electrical repairs. For the last 10 years, give or take, I’ve been averaging about $1000 a year in maintenance/repair costs. Whenever the thought crosses my mind to purchase a new truck, I consider replacement cost of around $70,000, give or take, and it makes no sense to me. If I continue to put $1000 a year into this vehicle, and continue to drive it for the next 18 years, at the rate I’m going, that’ll put me at around 500,000 miles, having owned it for about 36 years with an approx. total cost of $70,000 or an average of about $2,000/year, from new, not including insurance.

Please let me know if I’m missing something here, other than USB ports.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
You’re missing nothing, but you’re also driving a pre-2007 emissions truck.

Good luck with those numbers nowadays.
 
Joined
Jul 20, 2019
Messages
2,244
Looking into a new 1 ton pickup. Will need the extended cab but not the crew, 6ft bed. Going to be towing about 12,000lbs for 8hours straight once per week. Diesel is out of the price range, needs to come in around $40-45k. What does everyone think for brand?

Ford
GMC/Chevy
Dodge
You can get a new Cummins tradesman for that price. You don’t need a 3500 for that weight, a 2500 will work just fine. I have a 2020 2500 Cummins Bighorn and its rated to tow like 20k lbs. its a beast. Look at most of the commercial towers on the interstate, they are driving cummins. Best engine out there.
 
Top